BSomerfield
XS650 Enthusiast
I can't even get regular F timing set because rotating to get the other piston makes it wildly out of sync. When I tried to cut the difference between the two, that's when the starter gear shredded.
-
Enjoy XS650.com? Consider making a donation to help support the site.
XS650.com receives a small share of sales from some links on this page, but direct donations have a much greater impact on keeping this site going.
Need help with a lever starter.
- Thread starter BSomerfield
- Start date
-
- Tags
- 1973 tx650 ignition starter
This should interest you.
per a factory service bulletin the new heavy pattern spring is to be used for all years and the bend placed below the original spring holding recess.
like this
Bummer that you ground a good and hard to find factory? heavy pattern spring.
per a factory service bulletin the new heavy pattern spring is to be used for all years and the bend placed below the original spring holding recess.
like this
Bummer that you ground a good and hard to find factory? heavy pattern spring.
That spring is the same for all years and it’s larger than the OEM clip. It doesn’t fit in the factory groove but goes to the right. Is that what you meant by “won’t fit”? Dang it Gary, you typed faster lol
Getting that straightened out is your first priority.
BSomerfield
XS650 Enthusiast
Well f&#@ me. Alright I wish I had known that cuz I guarantee that's nothing but scrap metal now. Thanks.
BSomerfield
XS650 Enthusiast
So I'm going to explain what the process is in detail and maybe someone here will be able to tell me if I'm doing something wrong.
I open the cap for the points and open the cap for the alternator port. I rotate the stator to the F point and set the right side point. I measure with a .3mm tab because it's supposed to be between .3 and .4mm per the guidebook I have. I set that just slightly loose from .3mm so that I know it's within range. I then set the left hand side by first setting the bracket, and then setting the point itself. I always need to set both because the gap is insanely large, larger than any of the measuring tabs I have.
Once I set both to be close to .3mm I then rotate the stator 360 to get the other piston measurement. When I do that, one point has a gap on the runner side so the contacts aren't able to open at all it seems, and then the other point is wide open, so much so that it's again larger than any of my measuring tabs.
At this point I'll move the entire points mount in an attempt to shift the entire assembly to a different placement that might have more cohesion between the two points.
Rinse and repeat but never get anywhere close to a good timing.
I think you're confusing setting the timing and setting the points gap. They're two discrete steps. Set the points gaps.
Then turning the engine anti clockwise, at the F mark the points should be just opening. There should be no measurable gap. I used my multimeter to determine the points were opening at the F mark. Do the right side, then the left side. Then recheck the points gaps.
https://xs650chopper.com/wp-content/x/xs650-manual-xs650chopper-1.3.pdf
Here’s a factory manual.
Here’s a factory manual.
BSomerfield
XS650 Enthusiast
That's what I'm saying. At the F mark, one point will be open wider than should be possible and the other will be shut tight. I set them, then rotate 360 and it's the same issue. Like it never equalizes no matter how much I try to set it.
You do not set the gap at the F mark. The F mark is the points opening, there will be no visible gap.
Maybe my post about setting points gap will help?
https://www.xs650.com/threads/position-of-maximum-points-gap.66294/post-838363
BSomerfield
XS650 Enthusiast
When setting the gap am I looking at the contact or the runner on the wheel?
Not sure what a runner and wheel is...
Pick a set of points... either will do. Rotate the crank until the cam is at it's highest point. That is where you adjust the gap.... where the cam opens the points to the biggest gap. Set your points gap there. Now rotate the crank 360° and the cam should have the other set of points open to it's largest gap. Set that to the clearance you're wanting. Now that's done, you can adjust the right and left plates for timing.
Did you watch the video I put up here? Explains it pretty good.
A quick google:
BSomerfield
XS650 Enthusiast
Ok I understand where my confusion lies now. The points are to be adjusted for the gap and then separately timing is adjusted with the plates. I did watch both of those videos many times before making this post but I didn't understand it. Thank you.Not sure what a runner and wheel is...
Pick a set of points... either will do. Rotate the crank until the cam is at it's highest point. That is where you adjust the gap.... where the cam opens the points to the biggest gap. Set your points gap there. Now rotate the crank 360° and the cam should have the other set of points open to it's largest gap. Set that to the clearance you're wanting. Now that's done, you can adjust the right and left plates for timing.
Did you watch the video I put up here? Explains it pretty good.
View attachment 326882
