New addition to the garage

The valve springs acting against the cam ramps alternately speed and slow the cam, moving chain slack to the front run and back run so the back side of the chain alternately tensions and slacks moving the tensioner in and out.
 
While thinking I would need to replace the front guide, I looked in my parts stash and look what I found. Is this an aftermarket piece? Plastic is quite hard. Bolt holes are parallel to one another.

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The valve springs acting against the cam ramps alternately speed and slow the cam, moving chain slack to the front run and back run so the back side of the chain alternately tensions and slacks moving the tensioner in and out.
I’m usually a pretty quick study with mechanical things but this had me puzzled. Thanks for the explanation
 
Not really understanding the movement of that rod. Can someone enlighten me? Thx!
The rod and spring take up the "snatch" in the chain during operation. The movement of the rod indicates spring tension on the chain. Fluctuating between flush and 1-2mm recessed indicates correct tension. More recess than that indicates not enough tension and going out past flush like yours does indicates it ain't assembled correctly.... missing the copper washer 5twins pointed out.
 
Two different damper washers were used on these. The type you need will depend on the length of your adjuster screw. The early version used a 2mm thick copper washer, the later version used a 3mm thick rubber/metal washer. Here's a link to a write-up I did on them. See posts 22 and 23. There's also a link in there for replacement copper washers off eBay .....

https://www.xs650.com/threads/cam-chain-tensioners.1056/page-2
 
The in and out movement of the plunger can also be attributed to how chains stretch unevenly, developing tight and loose spots.
 
Got the bike running but looks like it could use carb work. Static setting of points today. Right side was .016”, left side was .020”. Set it to .016”. Noticed some minor pitting so brought the whole point assembly in the house to clean contacts. Pesky phillips screws on the points were messed up and not all the same style, so I decided to cut some 4mm shcs to replace the damaged screws. Cutting small bolts like these are a pita. Found they fit (with a bit of interference) into my wire stripper / crimper which made the task much easier. Will be much easier to adjust now.

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To get the bike running I needed the copper washer / damper (missing on my bike) for the cam chain tensioner assembly. Couldn't find a 2mm washer or copper plate so I had to improvise to make a TEMPORARY damper (a real one is on its way). So I found two old pennies (no longer in circulation in Canada), filed them flat, soldered them together, spun them on my drill and filed them to size (I really want to get a small lathe!). Turned out ok but don’t trust it for long term use. Left some Canadian content on the piece - Lol.

I still need to adjust the tensioner after I replace the damper and when the bike is set up properly, at operating temperature, but right now the clicking noise is gone (fingers crossed).


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I like that laminated copper washer!
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Edit: I just realized you probably wouldn’t know the photo above, taken from an American comedy TV show in the 70’s, Laugh In.
Sure do - Rowan & Martin’s Laugh In! I think many of us are not so young. Lol.
 
Wow Bosco, that bike really is a sweetie! You mentioned you drove over 400 miles round trip to get this one. Nice to find such a well cared for old bike so "close" to home. These types of things seem more rare north of the 49th than for our southern friends.
 
Wow Bosco, that bike really is a sweetie! You mentioned you drove over 400 miles round trip to get this one. Nice to find such a well cared for old bike so "close" to home. These types of things seem more rare north of the 49th than for our southern friends.
This bike was a bit of a gamble since I bought it in “non running order”. Now that it runs (not perfectly yet), I’m fairly confident it will be a good bike. The po had it for over 2+ years and never got it going. Lots of small things to fix up.

When setting the points gaps, as everyone knows, the engine easily rolls over TDC which is a pita. Rigged this up to hold the crank in place while I set the gaps. Looks goofy but worked great.
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Will do final setup with my dwell meter.
 
Next on the list is to replace the cobbled starter motor switch / button with an OEM like button. Looks like one of the po had switch issues snd removed the factory switch and replaced it with a non weatherproof switch with a tiny button. Is getting an OEM button / switch assembly my only option? I have a button & spring kit but need a real switch. Here’s what’s on there now. Or should I just leave it alone?
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