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New here, need some help!!

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by Xs6502021, Apr 23, 2021.

  1. It would be better to run both the ignition box and coil wires to the terminal marked"acc", leaving the terminal marked "ign" as a place to connect the lights. Wired like that you can run with the lights on or off without a need for a separate light switch.
     
    Paul Sutton and Xs6502021 like this.
  2. Paul Sutton

    Paul Sutton I Collect Fingers XS650.com Supporter Top Contributor

    From the few wiring diagrams I have seen the Capacitor just swaps places with the Battery. I have scribbled out parts of your earlier diagram to show what you need. It is basically the same as Skulls Ignition diagram if you rearrange the position of everything. The kill switch is optional if you want it simplified more:
    Cap.jpg
    When you get the ignition system working you may need to change the wiring layout a bit more to suit your final harness design.

    Have fun and let us know how you get on.
     
    Xs6502021 likes this.
  3. Xs6502021

    Xs6502021 XS650 Addict

    You guys are the best, I really appreciate this so much. I think that I am ready to go! I am going to layout my game plan on some paper and go from there. I think I'd like to rip off everything and get the actual color wires and start fresh so I know for sure what's going on lol. I'm excited and nervous! Here we go! Lol
     
  4. Jan_P

    Jan_P XS650 Guru Top Contributor

    1,142
    1,661
    163
    Sweden
    As I mentioned I like that bike ..
    And have had friends on similar . I then know that many of them will never run ..one had a red brush painted frame and a
    Yellow brush painted tank.
    2 Triumphs One Husqvarna one Norton .. That was bought cheap but required a lot of work.
    1 newer ran , one was sold within 3 months the Husqvarna a Rip off and a new Honda was bought.
    Not sure what happened to the Norton
    One triumph did run but was leaking so much oil so any " Longer run " was not possible
    .
    Please consider to " Keep it Simple " at this point in time dont rip things out ending in a sad story.
    You have World class help here . And they will get the bike running
    Especially since the word is that you have spark.

    Mr Sutton and Mr Team Junk are experienced why not try their suggestions.
     
    Raymond and Xs6502021 like this.
  5. Xs6502021

    Xs6502021 XS650 Addict

    Shame to see so many not running!! This bike will get fixed even in if I have to just drop it off at shop lol. But yeah I'm going to do their suggestions but the wiring on it now isn't even similar to those diagrams and the wires are almost all yellow. I'm gonna keep the headlight wires the same and then possible the taillight bit everything else I have to (for my sanity lol) make it the normal red/green/yellow variety to know what's what. Staring at this mainly yellow tangled mess I think is making it more confusing then it is! But also, there's so many more wires then needed on it and I think it's because the prev owner didn't know how to make one wire branch into two, or how to solder etc lol
     
  6. One thing wrong in that diagram, alternator charging output should go to the battery side of the switch, instead of the fuse box. As it is now, turning off the switch doesn't kill the engine, the alternator is feeding power into the fuse box and the engine will continue to run.
     
  7. 650Skull

    650Skull SSSSSSSSSlither Top Contributor

    I'v added the battery to this diagram. The fuses are all over the place in this diagram. Make up a box of fuses or redo the fuses so there is one main and a small one for the Electronic ignition, (don't know if the mikes one requires a 7.5 like the pamco did).

    This is for a PMA/Capacitor and Pamco ignition so the wiring should be the same for your MikesXs ignition. Mikes XS still uses the old Pamco instructions when it comes to wiring in the ignition.
    simplified wiring Cap-PMA- Pamco copy.jpg

    Should wire the coil off the red wire going to the electronic ignition not in series through the coil.
    CoilWiring copy.jpg
     
    Xs6502021 likes this.
  8. Xs6502021

    Xs6502021 XS650 Addict


    Wait so, red wire from the regulator should go to the battery not 20a fuse is what your saying? The alternator only has the three yellow wires that to to the regulator
     
  9. 650Skull

    650Skull SSSSSSSSSlither Top Contributor

    Reg/rect by your pics has 3 yellow, green and red wires. 3 yellow to PMA, green to earth, red to battery.

    Go back and look at the diagram in post #3........
     
  10. Xs6502021

    Xs6502021 XS650 Addict

    Yeah I know that, but mike in Idaho said alternator charging out put. My alternator only has three yellow wires so what is the alternator charging output?
     
  11. 650Skull

    650Skull SSSSSSSSSlither Top Contributor

    Your confusing your alternator with your Reg/rect.

    Alternator is the PMA............

    Reg/Rect is the one you have circled and named with the 5 wires.............3 yellow come from the PMa and the other 2 are.............red that goes to the red wire between the battery and ignition.....................green i think is earth/Ground
    [​IMG]
     
    Xs6502021 likes this.
  12. Xs6502021

    Xs6502021 XS650 Addict

    I'm sorry if I sound so stupid. But then what is the Alternator charging output? My alternator isn't connected to anything. Which if it's supposed to be it's assume that's a problem lol, and would that be a reason it isn't started?
     
  13. 650Skull

    650Skull SSSSSSSSSlither Top Contributor

    PMA, (alternater), out put is immaterial at the moment. Will need to identify what PMA you have to be able to know its output.

    This diagram will help you to identify components, (PMA and Reg/Rect), (Reg/Rect stands for Combined Solid State Regulator and Rectifier that you have), and in their order...Use as a reference. The E-Advancer you don't have but if you remove it the Pamco wires straight into the coil/red wire
    simplified wiring Cap - PMA- Pamco - E-Advance.jpg


    Here is a simplified explanation. PMA puts out full power, (near enough), at idle and all revs. The Reg part controls the amount of volts that gets feed to the components, and keep them at a steady rate, Should be around 13-14 volts. What is above the 13/14 volts the reg part of the Reg/rect converts the excess volts to heat and that gets dissipated by the cooling fins on the unit.

    Most aftermarket PMA's for the XS650 are rated at 200 watts. This is way more that the bike needs and if the Reg part of the reg/rect didn't convert the excess watts to heat and disperse it your wiring loom would cook and cap may explode

    book mark this thread........may help if you have some problems in the future
    http://www.xs650.com/threads/pma-install-voltage-too-high-6-wire-regulator.42193/#post-422111

    Mosfet Reg/Rect use a different system to get rid of the heat and they are more reliable and considered a better Reg/Rect.
    This link will help to explain how a Mosfet works and the difference to yours
    https://www.superhawkforum.com/forums/knowledge-base-40/mosfet-regulator-rectifiers-why-how-25117/
     
    Xs6502021, Paul Sutton and nj1639 like this.
  14. Xs6502021

    Xs6502021 XS650 Addict

    Thanks so much skull! Okay I was on the right track at first but the alternator output threw me off lol. And the simplified "xs650 parts for dummies" you just wrote is perfect lol I appreciate it so much. Didn't realize how different a bike could be from a car, thought it'd be easier maybe because it's smaller, less intimidating? But boy was I wrong, this thing is kicking my arse before I can even ride it lol
     
    Paul Sutton likes this.
  15. Xs6502021

    Xs6502021 XS650 Addict

    Okay - when switching back to capacitor how do I wirethe ignition,just replace the "batt" where the POS battery is on, to the positive capacitor? Is it that simple of a switch?
     
  16. Xs6502021

    Xs6502021 XS650 Addict

    Just trying to fully clarify when I'm completely done what will be plugged into the ignition switch. I was assuming capacitor just replaced battery nothing different as stated above but want to double check.
     
  17. Xs6502021

    Xs6502021 XS650 Addict

    One thing I also noticed. My new regulator I just hooked upto how the prev one was hooked. It's three wires three yellow to the alternator and then a red (assuming positive) and then a green. Well the green should be grounded right? Or where should itgo? Since there's not a stock harness I can't use the plugs it came with and had to cut and connect. Because right now it's hooked up to a bunch of stuff and definitely not grounded. I also noticed that the only things on the ignition switch being used is the acc and the ign, the batt is taped off and the capacitor is hooked up to the acc with the lights and everything else except for ignition lol... Now that I'm taking stuff apart and getting more hands on this thing is a mess!!
     
    Team Junk likes this.
  18. Xs6502021

    Xs6502021 XS650 Addict


    Side note I read thru the post that 650skull posted a link to about reg/rec voltage but his wires are different colored and has more than I do.. mine are three yellow, that go to alternator then a red and a green. I'd assume one needs to be grounded to distribute heat etc
     
  19. 650Skull

    650Skull SSSSSSSSSlither Top Contributor

    The first link that goes back to a 650.com thread is just in case yo need to trouble shoot your Reg/rect

    The Mosfet link is for educational purposes only. No relation to your set up.
     
    Xs6502021 likes this.
  20. 650Skull

    650Skull SSSSSSSSSlither Top Contributor

    I have no experience with capacitors. Logical thinking would be to run from the battery positive, (Red Wire), to cap positive to ignition. Run them in line............maybe get a second opinion

    Green should be earth/ground. Run to your earth wires. be it to the battery, (or if the frame is earthed off the battery), to the frame
     
    Paul Sutton and Jim like this.

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