New member, new to the XS650

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Biker Guy

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Hey all. New member from West Virginia. Nice forum here, thanks for letting me join.

I don't own an XS650 yet, but am in search of my first, so I hope that's ok. I currently have a 2006 Suzuki DR650 and an '06 Harley Davidson XL1200. I plan on keeping both, but I've been wanting to add an older Japanese bike to my crowded garage. Been wanting a Honda SL350 for a long time, but wanting something larger. I stumbled onto the XS650 model and I like everything about it. Seems just right for what I'm looking for.

I've been reading everything I can find, and trying to get a feel for the market before I jump on something. I'm learning a lot from reading the old threads here, and enjoying the pics of the nice looking bikes you all have.

Feel free to offer any advice or suggestions, or things to read, as I still have much to learn. I grew up riding the Honda dual sport SL, XL, and XR models, and some Harleys ... and never knew much about the Yamaha street models, but knew of their reputation to be dependable and well built. I still have my early 70s solid state Yamaha stereo receivers, and they're still among the best to be had, of any brand, IMO. It was a good time period for Yamaha.

Let me know if anyone is local to WV / OH / PA tri-state area.

JT
 
jetmechmarty said:
Your end product goal should help decide what model is best for you. Some models lend themselves more easily to particular customizations.
Click to expand...

Yes. I agree. I'm leaning toward early to mid 70s, ridable, not mint, not a basket case, clean, stock, just for moderate cruising. I can do maintenance myself, but not major rebuilds. Probably won't modify it much.

Lots of good info in those links above, thanks. I'm wondering about when the newer models went to the electronic ignition and smaller carbs, did performance suffer? And wondering if the newer models (80s) had any better ride / suspension.

Was wondering if using synthetic oil is best for them. I'll try the search area for that later. I'm sure there are some oil threads.
 
A short synopsis:
1. The bike was sold in the US from 1970 to 1983. 1970-1971 are kick-start only.
2. Ignition was changed from points to TCI in 1980. The carbs also shrunk from 38mm to 34mm that year.
3. 1974 and after have a different crank sprocket & cam sprocket, and connecting rods are shorter, with wrist pin locations changed on pistons to match. They are considered the "256" engine and the "447" engine.
4. The oil pump is low pressure due to the fact there are roller, needle, and ball bearings virtually everywhere in the engine with the exception of the rod small end/wrist pin interface after 1970, - otherwise no hydrodynamic bearings. The oil pump is really only needed to get oil to the top end, but does supply the bottom end with oil also.
5. There are no balance shafts or other skullduggery in the engine, making it as easy to work on as a lawnmower engine.
6. There are probably thousands of these bikes in cellars, garages, and barns waiting for one of us to save it and bring it back to life.
7. As you can tell by my signature below, I'm hooked. You may get hooked also.
8. If you can find a complete, unmolested, titled bike, you've struck gold. That's how I got my 1980 model and I paid $350 for it. After going all through it, I've put almost 4000 trouble-free miles on it, mostly last spring and summer.
9. Others here can tell you about suspension, frame, and electricals better than I, for I am mostly fascinated by that beautiful engine. The rest of that stuff is fairly general motorcycle stuff; but the engine makes it unique.
 
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Biker Guy said:
I'm wondering about when the newer models went to the electronic ignition and smaller carbs, did performance suffer? And wondering if the newer models (80s) had any better ride / suspension.
Click to expand...
Electronic ignition and BS34 carburetors showed up in the 1980 model. If you ask me, it's easier to keep in tune, so performance is more consistent. 1977 saw larger diameter forks. Somewhere along the line, maybe 1980, the rear shocks got progressive springs. All can be improved upon.

20W50, fresh and clean. Synthetic is fine if compatible with a wet clutch.

1671755432421.png
 
Biker Guy said:
Yes. I agree. I'm leaning toward early to mid 70s, ridable, not mint, not a basket case, clean, stock, just for moderate cruising. I can do maintenance myself, but not major rebuilds. Probably won't modify it much.

Lots of good info in those links above, thanks. I'm wondering about when the newer models went to the electronic ignition and smaller carbs, did performance suffer? And wondering if the newer models (80s) had any better ride / suspension.

Was wondering if using synthetic oil is best for them. I'll try the search area for that later. I'm sure there are some oil threads.
Click to expand...
This is what I and many others use in our XS650s. You may do better, but you cant't go wrong with this.
https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/p...le-protection-15w-40-diesel-engine-oil-25-gal
 
Thanks folks. Great info.

I did just read some oil threads, and about the frequent changes, etc. Not wanting to open a can of worms about the oils, haha. I've used that Rotella in my old IH Cub Cadet tractor. Lots of the tractor guys love it. I've used synthetic in my Suzuki DR, seems to run quieter. Running the mineral oil & changing frequently in the vintage bikes sounds like a good plan.
 
Yes, the 650 has a rather crude oil filtering system consisting of metal mesh screens you simply wash out and reuse. So, one of the best things you can do for the old girl is change the oil frequently, like every 1000 to 1500 miles. Synthetic oil is sort of a waste under these circumstances. You don't get the benefits of one of it's major pluses - the long change intervals. Personally, I just use the Walmart brand 20W50, cheap and easy to get, comes in 5 quart jugs too. That's perfect for the 650 because it takes about 2.5 quarts.

I tried that 15W40 diesel oil but didn't like the increased topend noise from the thinner 40 wt. I went back to the 20W50. I had bought a 5 quart jug of the diesel oil though, lol. But, it doesn't go to waste, I've been using it for top-ups between oil changes, lol.
 
Biker Guy said:
Hey all. New member from West Virginia. Nice forum here, thanks for letting me join.

I don't own an XS650 yet, but am in search of my first, so I hope that's ok. I currently have a 2006 Suzuki DR650 and an '06 Harley Davidson XL1200. I plan on keeping both, but I've been wanting to add an older Japanese bike to my crowded garage. Been wanting a Honda SL350 for a long time, but wanting something larger. I stumbled onto the XS650 model and I like everything about it. Seems just right for what I'm looking for.

I've been reading everything I can find, and trying to get a feel for the market before I jump on something. I'm learning a lot from reading the old threads here, and enjoying the pics of the nice looking bikes you all have.

Feel free to offer any advice or suggestions, or things to read, as I still have much to learn. I grew up riding the Honda dual sport SL, XL, and XR models, and some Harleys ... and never knew much about the Yamaha street models, but knew of their reputation to be dependable and well built. I still have my early 70s solid state Yamaha stereo receivers, and they're still among the best to be had, of any brand, IMO. It was a good time period for Yamaha.

Let me know if anyone is local to WV / OH / PA tri-state area.

JT
Click to expand...
Welcome, bro............good guys here!
 
MacMcMacmac said:
Like Suzuki GS "L" models, few people care much for late model Specials, so you might find they are easier and cheaper to find.
Click to expand...
Yamaha did sell a ton of Specials from 1978 till the end of the line, 1983. The chassis however is identical except to the shock mounts moving forward ~2 inch, I documented an easy Special to Standard conversion here.
https://www.xs650.com/threads/how-to-go-special-to-standard-in-6-easy-steps.64650/
That deals with a rear drumbrake model, others have added links in that thread detailing how to do conversions of disc rears.
 
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