New owner

[Jan_P]

Save the rewinding .. For now Wait till other things is sorted out
You need a special puller
Rewinds have a Reputation of being of different Quality.And it is difficult to know
before hand Finland does have a cooler climate so the external heat is not adding to the electrical heatload
It has not gone excessive miles either Sure it can short out .
But it can also last 20 000 km
Consider install a 10 Euro Voltmeter and dont go for long rides into the sticks --- Siberian tour
Which is not a good idea on a barn find Anyways
There is a fair chance you can use it

The two times I have rewound locally costed $ 100 Last time on a company dong work for agricultural Motors
Good Job 16 years ago

 

[jetmechmarty]

Might have to do that down the line.

Just do it before you get stranded. The rewind should last forever.

 

[Kevin Werner]

Just do it before you get stranded. The rewind should last forever.

Not disagreeing with you but in a new to him bike with everything apperantly working a $10 volt meter taped to the bar or upper triple tree might be prudent $wise. I have 2 XS650s of unknown lineage and my little voltmeters tell me the rotors are still good as of this afternoon.

 

[jetmechmarty]

Not disagreeing with you but in a new to him bike with everything apperantly working a $10 volt meter taped to the bar or upper triple tree might be prudent $wise. I have 2 XS650s of unknown lineage and my little voltmeters tell me the rotors are still good as of this afternoon.

That’s fine, but I wouldn’t travel far on an old rotor. When they fail, they can go fast. The battery drains to nothing in a hurry.

 

[laakkeet]

Since we got into the subject, I went ahead and checked the rotor.

The resistance between the slip rings on the rotor measured 6 ohms. And both rings measured infinite against ground.
Resistance between all windings measured 0.7 ohms and none were shorted to the case.

Readings seem to be ok according to manual and Gary’s/Curly’s writeup found on tech section. If someone happens to need a more visual guide on how to measure them, I thinks this video explains it pretty well:

I took a peak under the advance cover and things were pretty covered in what looked like ”copper dust”. Had to end the day there so didn’t investigate any further. Any insights?

 

[Its been a long time]

Since we got into the subject, I went ahead and checked the rotor.

The resistance between the slip rings on the rotor measured 6 ohms. And both rings measured infinite against ground.
Resistance between all windings measured 0.7 ohms and none were shorted to the case.

Readings seem to be ok according to manual and Gary’s/Curly’s writeup found on tech section. If someone happens to need a more visual guide on how to measure them, I thinks this video explains it pretty well:

I took a peak under the advance cover and things were pretty covered in what looked like ”copper dust”. Had to end the day there so didn’t investigate any further. Any insights?

View attachment 334622

Test the "copper dust" with a magnet? Looks like rust to me.

The oil seal/O ring/gasket on the housing is/are leaking, that's why there's oil in there.

 

[jetmechmarty]

Since we got into the subject, I went ahead and checked the rotor.

Yes. The rotor will be good until it isn’t. I remember years ago at a 650 Society rally, bikes seemed to be falling out left and right with failed rotors. I actuality it was probably two bikes. Just be aware it the heat, vibrations, and mostly age. A rewind will likely last forever. So long as you’re aware, I’ll shut up now.

 

[laakkeet]

A rewind will likely last forever. So long as you’re aware, I’ll shut up now.

All good and thanks for looking out, much appreciated!

I got my hands full and the shopping list keeps getting longer every day, so gotta cut some corners for now. But I’ll definetly keep the rotor rewind on my mind.

 

[Kevin Werner]

There was a rotor failure in the Smokies Rally 1 year ago on a very nice very low mileage 79F.

 

[jetmechmarty]

There was a rotor failure in the Smokies Rally 1 year ago on a very nice very low mileage 79F.

Who had the spare?

 

[Kevin Werner]

Who had the spare?

You of course, that's why I like riding with you...

 

[Jan_P]

Test the "copper dust" with a magnet? Looks like rust to me.

The oil seal/O ring/gasket on the housing is/are leaking, that's why there's oil in there.

Probably a little wear on the weights no worries Wipe clean with a rag and perhaps a little oil on the pivot posts

Oil leak no worries there either just yet - Machine has been sitting for a long time and the seal can be hard and dry.
As other seals on the bike .But maybe not
After a couple of heat cycles and oil on it .. via the use ...it can get better .If not change later . Not any major problem a little oil in there
I believe I have it so.

And check those large Phillips Screws so they are not loose there is a gasket at the back .Dont over tighten

 

[5twins]

Copper dust, lol. That's rust. Your advance unit needs servicing (cleaning and greasing) as does, no doubt, the advance rod that runs through the cam. If it dries out (which it probably has), the advance can stick.

 

[Raymond]

And check those large Phillips Screws so they are not loose there is a gasket at the back .Dont over tighten

Except they're not Phillips - if you don't have JIS screwdrivers, you ought to get some.

 

[Its been a long time]

Except they're not Phillips - if you don't have JIS screwdrivers, you ought to get some.

Especially for those. Really don't want to risk making a mess of those screw heads. Using JIS bits really does make an amazing difference on the Japanese screws.

 

[laakkeet]

Probably a little wear on the weights no worries Wipe clean with a rag and perhaps a little oil on the pivot posts

Oil leak no worries there either just yet - Machine has been sitting for a long time and the seal can be hard and dry.
As other seals on the bike .But maybe not
After a couple of heat cycles and oil on it .. via the use ...it can get better .If not change later . Not any major problem a little oil in there
I believe I have it so.

Here's hoping the seal starts to hold after getting some oil, not holding my breath tho. Gotta check it once I get it back up and running.

Copper dust, lol. That's rust. Your advance unit needs servicing (cleaning and greasing) as does, no doubt, the advance rod that runs through the cam. If it dries out (which it probably has), the advance can stick.

Yeah.. I really meant actual copper dust and not refering to the color, hence I didn't add quotemarks... Oh wait did I?
But for real, it sure looked like it could do with servicing. Good info on the advance rod, thanks! Moly grease would do, right?

Except they're not Phillips - if you don't have JIS screwdrivers, you ought to get some.

I don't actually have a set. I recall trying to do some "DIY JIS from Phillips" -trick long ago, when I couldn't find a set on my Intruder but if memory serves it wasn't really working great. Probably why I have no idea where they are now.
Couldn't find a retailer in Finland with quick google search so I guess its Ebay time.

 

[Jan_P]

I dont think you shall do that yet either

But for real, it sure looked like it could do with servicing. Good info on the advance rod, thanks! Moly grease would do, right?

it is a machine 30 k Km Rarely those are parked unless there are some problems
If no problems .. I feel it can start and run reasonable well as Is.
After a sensible startup

After getting it up and running a better evaluation can be made
making a plan.
Every part on 50 year old Motorcycle can be replaced because it has problems .But it will 3 be times more expensive.
The alternator rotor which is Working pulling that off can be $ 100 down the drain.
( I exaggerate a bit )

Everything a human does can go wrong. I have seen 3 -4 Motorcycles over the years being
Disassembled never be put together again.
Many for sale with problems ...owner lost stamina .sometimes money

I am all for starting from a wreck even .But I feel that a slow progress machine getting better
over time Is better
Say for the sake of reasoning there is a hole in one piston Bent frame or something
or so .. Noticing it after time and money spent.

It depends on skills as mechanic and tools available .And if running it or wrench is the main interest
Not that I distrust the ability of others
Just giving input to not sit with a box of parts to sell

 

[JOHNDADDY]

The bits that came with my hand held impact fits those screws nice, also works well on the clutch.

 

[laakkeet]

Copper dust, lol. That's rust. Your advance unit needs servicing (cleaning and greasing) as does, no doubt, the advance rod that runs through the cam. If it dries out (which it probably has), the advance can stick.

It actually wasn’t rust but some sort of dust. I cleaned the housing and it wiped clean off with a rag.

Looking at the color (doesnt really show in the pic) and the way everything was coated with it, my best guess is that it’s from the weights. Possibly grinding against something?

And I found this thread to be super helpful servicing the advance unit and rod, so big thanks @5twins !
https://www.xs650.com/threads/advance-rod-cleaning-73-tx650.50081/

Taking the weights off I apparenty managed to loose one of the shim washers, as I was under the impression there were 1 in each pivot post, but I ended up with total 3 of them after I took the weights off.

Pivot posts were dry so I assume the rod to be too. Didnt get to it yet as I spent too long looking for the 4th shim washer and had to call it a day.

 

[5twins]

You may be fine with just one shim washer on each post. That's all I ever found. Maybe there were only 3 to begin with and you haven't lost one. Maybe 2 stuck together when it was assembled at the factory, so one post got 2.