I put Shinko 777s on my bike, very happy with the handling, spirited or cruising.
Cons they are not period correct.
Cons they are not period correct.
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New project : 1975 Suzuki T500 Titan
- Thread starter srmauer
- Start date
Glass would good but all the jars I have are with a steel lid. Maybe a couple of layers of plastic between the jar and lid?
One tank badge done. Two coats of paint. Maybe a 3rd? Looks much better.
I would shoot a coat of high quality clear and call it done.
As for plastic (assume you mean Glad, Saran, etc) protecting the metal lids, I think whatever that stuff is would eat that thin plastic in ~2 seconds
I was thinking a 6 mil polyethylene vapour barrier plastic.
Yes I was thinking about clear coating it but would need to buy some. I have some 2K clear but once I crack open the can it’s done in a couple of days. I’ll check at the auto parts store.
Totally unrelated ti this thread but rant worthy. I nearly fell off if my chair last night when I looked for pricing on paint thinner. Locally it’s $49.99 Cdn plus 13% tax for 3.78L!! The world is becoming unaffordable.
Yes, that might work. Would be easy to give it a test, just dab some on a piece and you'll probably know pretty quickly...
I have had good success with this. But for any high quality aerosol clear, ensure the base paint has ample time to cure (~3+ days) regardless of what the label says. And spray just a skim coat first and let it cure some before recoating. Not doing this risks the solvents in the clear fu(king the base coating(s). Don't ask me how I know.
Rainy day so did a few things to the bike. The po wasn’t a stickler for details so I’m fixing up much of his stuff.
Tail light washers were way too big and looked wrong. Bolts used to hold down the lights were at least 10mm too long. Many would say what difference does it make because you’ll never see them. Trouble is I saw them and needed to replace them.
The taillight bracket had plenty of surface rust in places you can’t see. Once again I saw it and need to clean it up.
I don’t know why but someone thought it was necessary to drill a not so round, off center hole in the top of the bracket. The hole is round now - love step drills for thin gauge materials. Now I need to find a plug. I searched through my “what are you keeping this for” bins and found a perfect fit. I love when this happens. Hole is still off center though.
The bracket will be in Evaporust for a couple of days then I plan to spray it with chrome in a can (where surface rust was).
New seat / fender mount bolts of correct length.
Test fit the tank badge - looks great.
Tail light washers were way too big and looked wrong. Bolts used to hold down the lights were at least 10mm too long. Many would say what difference does it make because you’ll never see them. Trouble is I saw them and needed to replace them.
The taillight bracket had plenty of surface rust in places you can’t see. Once again I saw it and need to clean it up.
I don’t know why but someone thought it was necessary to drill a not so round, off center hole in the top of the bracket. The hole is round now - love step drills for thin gauge materials. Now I need to find a plug. I searched through my “what are you keeping this for” bins and found a perfect fit. I love when this happens. Hole is still off center though.
The bracket will be in Evaporust for a couple of days then I plan to spray it with chrome in a can (where surface rust was).
New seat / fender mount bolts of correct length.
Test fit the tank badge - looks great.
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See? That’s the kind of stuff I could get lost in for days. I love detail work! 
Late start today. The gas cap seal on the bike had begun to disintegrate. Lucky for me there was a new one in the small box of parts the po gave me. Pesky to install. Especially the tiny c clip for the pin. The original broke when I tried putting it back on. Lucky for me I had an assortment of Chinesium clips. All done.
The tail light bracket soaked in Evaporust for 24 hours. I think I’ll leave it in for another day. I thought the rear fender was new but now I think it’s been re chromed. The show side looks pretty good but I noticed a lot of surface rust underneath. I guess I’ll remove it and give it the treatment.
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After "the treatment", I very often coat the underside with silver/gray Rustbullet or POR-15.
Yes on my beetle project I cleaned the surfaces with a wire wheel, washed with alcohol, painted with POR15 then top coated with silver (chrome in a can) paint. With the fender maybe I’ll spray it with gravel guard / undercoating?
Beetle pics….
48 hours in Evaporust and I think whatever rust can be removed is now gone. Rather than paint some of the exposed surfaces I gave those areas a good rub down with Autosol metal polish. Hopefully that will keep the rust from reappearing. I may also slap a coat or two of carnuba wax on the shiny spots.
Later today I’ll give the underside a coat of POR15. I’ll remove the rear fender for treatment too.
Edit - POR15 on. Will spray silver later today.
Later today I’ll give the underside a coat of POR15. I’ll remove the rear fender for treatment too.
Edit - POR15 on. Will spray silver later today.
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One coat of chrome in a can is all it’s getting. Looks much better now. Now off with the fender. Maybe I should wait until I complete my beetle stuff?
Maybe I should wait until I complete my beetle stuff?
What?!
But I’m addicted to this thread!
Really enjoying the refurbishing you’ve done so far. It’s already come a long ways.
Dunno... guess you could always take up basket weaving... for a winter project...Now off with the fender. Maybe I should wait until I complete my beetle stuff?
Got the essential beetle work done so I removed the rear fender. Puzzling how someone took so much care in rechroming the outside of the fender and left the inside like trash. At minimum the po should have protected it.
Scraped and wire wheeled the loose rust off. Hopefully get a coat of POR15 on it tomorrow and my spray chrome. Maybe gravel guard too? Then once cured I’ll treat the seams with ACF50 and it will good for my lifetime of ownership. It’s a shame people don’t do this correctly the first time.
Scraped and wire wheeled the loose rust off. Hopefully get a coat of POR15 on it tomorrow and my spray chrome. Maybe gravel guard too? Then once cured I’ll treat the seams with ACF50 and it will good for my lifetime of ownership. It’s a shame people don’t do this correctly the first time.
Well I’m stumped. What seed to be a simple task turns out to be a pita that I haven’t figured out yet. I’m trying to set the timing on the bike. The process appeared to be simple but….. 
. On the plate the points are mounted on there’s a small window at about the 2:00 position. There’s a rotating plate under the hole that’s clearly marked L and R with a scribed line. I’m supposed to have the points open as the line comes in line with the mark on the window.
The trouble I’m having is I can’t get the points to open at the timing marks. They open maybe 5+ degrees after the mark. There’s not enough adjustment in the points mounting plate.
The points gap is set and the points do open but probably ATDC.
When I had the bike running it sounded fine. I’ve moved the points all over the place but iirc they were around the middle of their adjustment range.
Help! What am I doing wrong. Must be simple.
I’m using a multimeter with one lead grounded to the engine case and the other to the moving side of the points. Condensers have been disconnected.
. On the plate the points are mounted on there’s a small window at about the 2:00 position. There’s a rotating plate under the hole that’s clearly marked L and R with a scribed line. I’m supposed to have the points open as the line comes in line with the mark on the window. The trouble I’m having is I can’t get the points to open at the timing marks. They open maybe 5+ degrees after the mark. There’s not enough adjustment in the points mounting plate.
The points gap is set and the points do open but probably ATDC.
When I had the bike running it sounded fine. I’ve moved the points all over the place but iirc they were around the middle of their adjustment range.
Help! What am I doing wrong. Must be simple.
I’m using a multimeter with one lead grounded to the engine case and the other to the moving side of the points. Condensers have been disconnected.
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