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New to me XS 650...
- Thread starter Kevin Werner
- Start date
I don't disagree on that. If I wasn't dribbling that little bit that leaves the tell-tale trail I would leave it and start it up 2 or 3 times and call it good. I should put it on a pit stand and see if it dribbles while fully upright.My winterizing..... pull it up on the centerstand.
If I'm feelin' generous, I'll throw a coat or sumsuch over the windshield and give 'er a kiss.
Have a read here.... https://www.xs650.com/threads/fuel-system-winterizing.58562/
Turn the petcock(s) off and run it 'til it dies. That'll lower the fuel level below the bowl seam.
... that "get bit in the ass or hole in the piston"?can you speed get bit in the ass?
I didn't know storing carbs dry and tank full (cept fiberglass) was debatable - different strokes.
What will, eventually, bite you in the ass is a routine of starting it up a few times off season - for 5-10 minutes - that will put condensation in the exhaust (that won't get burnt off) and the mufflers will eventually rust. That's a big reason you'll see some nice survivor bikes with good mufflers and some that are rusted through badly
What will, eventually, bite you in the ass is a routine of starting it up a few times off season - for 5-10 minutes - that will put condensation in the exhaust (that won't get burnt off) and the mufflers will eventually rust. That's a big reason you'll see some nice survivor bikes with good mufflers and some that are rusted through badly
Good point. Both XS's have empty carbs and won't run this winter. Both (at least one) will get jetting changes prior to spring start up,
Haven't drained my carbs since the winter of '19. The key is using hi-test without the alcy.
We never winterized stuff when I was a kid... and everything ran jus' fine come spring.... year after year.
What's different? We didn't have ethanol in the gas like we do now.
Maybe unnecessary but in the fall, on all my to be stored equipment, bikes, cars, mowers, chainsaws, outboards, trimmers, etc…. I’ll change the oil, drain fuel tanks (other than bike and car) then run the carbs dry. Also spray in storage oil. Cars and bikes are always run on ethanol free fuel anyway but they get topped up with fresh fuel loaded with s dose of stabilizer. Like I said, all of this is probably unnecessary, but (knock on wood) I have never had any engine problems in the new season. I don’t like starting stuff up over the winter because of condensation too. But all of this work is because I’m me. Lol. Many friends turn off the key and say see ya in the springtime. Oh and all batteries are placed on tenders.
Might as well finish-up my thread derail.
Yep; back in the 70's, when we had good ole leaded, real gas - remember Ethyl? - it was normal to leave gas in carbs and (over 6 months or so) no varnish would form. Then, in the mid '70's unleaded came along and you had 5-6 months max. before it started to gel. Then, in the early '80's we got reformulated gas and the shelf-life became 3 months - maybe - and cleaning carbs became a common thing in the spring. Now, we got that and ethanol too; adding corrosion to the mix.
I run "Rec gas", but also add stabilizer in the fall and drain carbs for storage - reckon I'm just anal
Yep; back in the 70's, when we had good ole leaded, real gas - remember Ethyl? - it was normal to leave gas in carbs and (over 6 months or so) no varnish would form. Then, in the mid '70's unleaded came along and you had 5-6 months max. before it started to gel. Then, in the early '80's we got reformulated gas and the shelf-life became 3 months - maybe - and cleaning carbs became a common thing in the spring. Now, we got that and ethanol too; adding corrosion to the mix.
I run "Rec gas", but also add stabilizer in the fall and drain carbs for storage - reckon I'm just anal
Sharing info and experience will never be a "derail" in my estimation. We are here to learn and to share...Might as well finish-up my thread derail.
Yep; back in the 70's, when we had good ole leaded, real gas - remember Ethyl? - it was normal to leave gas in carbs and (over 6 months or so) no varnish would form. Then, in the mid '70's unleaded came along and you had 5-6 months max. before it started to gel. Then, in the early '80's we got reformulated gas and the shelf-life became 3 months - maybe - and cleaning carbs became a common thing in the spring. Now, we got that and ethanol too; adding corrosion to the mix.
I run "Rec gas", but also add stabilizer in the fall and drain carbs for storage - reckon I'm just anal
My bikes sit in my cold garage all winter so I've never needed stabilizer in the gas. Sitting through one cold winter doesn't make it go bad. I drain the carbs and fill the tanks. And I don't run the carbs dry, I physically drain the gas out of the bowls. The batteries all have Tender pigtails connected to them so I can periodically plug the Tender into them. But with the sealed batteries I use now, I find they hold their charge quite well. I don't have to put the Tender on them much over the winter, maybe once then again in the spring before firing it up for the new season.
My snowblower, on the other hand, must have stabilizer added to the gas because it sits through the hot summer. The gas will go bad if I don't add the stabilizer. I found this out the hard way - I didn't add stabilizer one year and had starting and running issues come winter. I had to drain the tank and put fresh gas in.
My snowblower, on the other hand, must have stabilizer added to the gas because it sits through the hot summer. The gas will go bad if I don't add the stabilizer. I found this out the hard way - I didn't add stabilizer one year and had starting and running issues come winter. I had to drain the tank and put fresh gas in.
Congrats on the new granddaughter!
Ozark Rally is around the corner. The Blue Bike left a little spot under the caliper over the winter. Piston a seal kit arrived so I put the "Red Bike" on hold and had a little time to do some R&R (remove and replace). I know my process is not the best but it worked (after a fashion) for me so I stuck with it. Cleaned out the reservoir with Q tips. Cleaned the caliper bore. Installed a new stainless line with adjustable ends. (Mistake here?) Filled the reservoir untill fluid was dripping out the lower loose banjo and snugged that down. Applied vacuum to the bleeder and cracked it open. Reservoir went lower for a little while then stopped. Jeesh, did I do this 12 pages ago? Waited, no change. Go away, don't get pissed. Come back, same. Repeat
(definition of idiocy right there). Bleeder passage was plugged... Check my signature. Amatuer
(definition of idiocy right there). Bleeder passage was plugged... Check my signature. Amatuer
So.... I am just the smartest of souls... 10 or 12 pages back I installed a new stainless front brake line. The ends were crimped (flat plane) so the it had an odd twist and the forks scuffed it. Add that this winter a small puddle of fluid appeared under the caliper In the garage. New piston and seal installed. Ha ha ha. Go back 10 or 12 pages. I have been bleeding that new install for 2 days intermittent ly. Good thing the beer refrigerator is close at hand.
The brake line replacement is complete with really good feel at the lever. This is a 12,7mm M/C. Took a quick 1 mile ride in the neighborhood, nothing fast, but my fears were confirmed. The leaking caliper wetted a brake pad and my stopping performance and feel is in the toilet. I washed the pads pretty good with naptha but obviously, the damage was done. I ordered EBC pads from MikesXS today.
Installed new EBC pads today and wiped, then doused the disc with brake cleaner. The performance is not great. How long before pads "bed" in?
My routine for bedding pads in goes like this..
Get up to 30mph and do a quick stop.
Repeat three or four times.
Get up to 40mph and do the same
You'll have a bit of heat in the pad now, so do it at 60.
That's it.
Only thing I've found with Carbon Lorraine pads is I occasionally have to do a couple of warm-up stops or slightly drag the brakes on a cold day. For normal riding around the use of the brakes keeps them warmed enough for good enough performance.
I occasionally have to get road oil and muck off the discs, and if I feel like it, check the pads for glazing and road muck contamination.
Any time I’ve changed pads, I also surfaced the disc, just lightly with either a soft wheel in a 4” angle grinder or a drill mounted abrasive pad. Just something to take the shine off the disc and scuff it up a little.
Thank you for input. I can do the staged heating quick stops and I will. This bike does not have a center stand so removing the wheel will have to wait untill my "Red Bike" project can go off the lift.
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