My guess is the seat pan shorted it out.
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New to me XS 650...
- Thread starter Kevin Werner
- Start date
Examineing the melted base suggests there might be components in there that maybe got compressed into unnatural Circuits by a combination of fiberglass flex and my bodyweight causing that flex.
Sorry to see that happen. If it had to happen, it was fortunate to have it happen when & where it did. Thankful a fire extinguisher was handy and you got to it - apparently - quickly.
My wife asked if there was yellow dust on her car.
These panic decisions we make sometimes don't look good on instant replay...
Thank you. My son, a recent XS650 owner said, "Hell dad, good thing you weren't surrounded by dry grass and cornfields. "
That dust gets everywhere. When I was managing restaurants back in the 70's someone set the garbage can on fire in the woman's bathroom. We put it out with the extinguisher and just a small squirt filled the entire restaurant with that chemical. We were cleaning that dust off till 3am. Nasty
While working on a vintage aluminum racecar body, our rookie welder got a little fire going when some solvent and oil in a seam caught fire. He freaks out and starts yelling for a fire extinguisher. He was amazed when I put it out with water and a rag. I then explained to him that unless he wanted to wash everything in the shop he might want to keep some water and rags near the welding table.My wife asked if there was yellow dust on her car.
So I sorted out which wires I need for the hi and low beams and built up a three female blade connector for the male plug to the reserve light checker. While it was on a shop stand I installed (77D, pipes pods,750;BBK)#30 pilots, 27.5 still popping a little on decel. Also I retarded timing a few degrees as has been suggested in these forums a few times. Now the bike seems more civilized, no popping, good idle etc. The snag is that I have brake light but no taillight.
After closer inspection I am pretty sure my buffed and chiseled 210 lb svelte physique pressed/distorted/bent that 16 ga. seat pan base down and the fiberglass tailsection was bouncing on the case of the reserve light unit. That pan base has an opening the size of the reserve light unit so there was never metal contact. I am guessing (?) the pounding did internal damage causing a short through components that are not designed/sized to flow 12v to ground.
After a lengthy "warm up" ride I found my idle would climb to 2k to 2500 rpm. Am I lean on pilots or do I need to adjust the pilots out?
You may need to simply set your idle speed lower. You can't set the idle speed on a cold motor. It will be too high once warmed up. It takes some foolin' around to get the idle set just fast enough at cold idle so it won't stall but not too fast so it will be idling too high once warmed up. There's also a fine line as far as the idle speed goes. The factory spec of 1100 to 1200 RPMs is what to shoot for. Much more than that and the ignition starts into it's advance curve and that increases the idle speed. Then that higher speed causes more advance, and an even higher speed. It's a self-feeding thing and may be what you're experiencing now.
Feedback loops! Thanks, another pecidillo. was aiming at the 1400-1500 range, I will aim lower. I was concerned about being too low for the charging system. I will aim for that 1100-1200 range next time I am warmed up. When does advance start happening? Was there ever a re curve trick?
Unless you plan on spending a lot of time at idle, I wouldn't worry about charging. Mine is about break even at idle.
Soon as I put it in gear and head off, it's charging.
Depends in the iggy system. Mechanical advances usually start at about 18-2000rpm.
Something I will have to examine. I think the Probe 65 unit has it's own advance. I remember seeing an empty cavity on my right side cam cover but will need to double check.
I can only check timing on the side stand and I get nervous revving the engine much because the bike stands up with revs and I am paranoid it will go over onto it's left side.
I had been "out" of motorcycles while the kids were young. Grandkids are 12, 10, 2. That's just a point of reference. I think this tracker is getting close to civilized but my point of reference is 20ish years ago. I hoped that someone would/could ride my bike in Arkansas but truthfully, I did not want to ride someone else's bike because I had been out of it so long and I am still polishing my skills. I have chatted phone and messaging with @mm1ut1 who lives 1000 feet from me. He was good enough to come over today. We finally met and I sent him off on the tracker for an evaluation ride. I am seeking validation that what I feel on this bike is not colored by personal attachment. I have re jetted, re timed, re braked, re barred, rewired etc this XS650D. @mm1ut1 payed me a nice compliment saying he didn't want to turn around and return. Further, as he rode away (we seldom watch/hear our bikes ride away) I was happy that it is not too loud and certainly quieter than many bikes going up my street.
So @mm1ut1 confirmed that ther are some "shakes" going on here. I discovered last night that my carbs have a vacuum port easily accessible and in some thread @jetmechmarty was able to sync carbs with tank on. @mm1ut1 brought over a manometer and I discovered my sync was pretty far off.
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I synced the carb pretty good and packed the manometer to return to @mm1ut1 . Then considered my journey thus far. I had gotten inconsistent or confusing results adjusting mixture screws to this point. So much so that I returned them to 1 1/2 turns. Considering this I decided I need to be sure. Today I warmed up the bike on a meandering city ride and played with the air mixture screw. Now that the carbs are in sync the mix screws are very responsive. I rigged the manometer and it did need just a touch of sync adjustment.
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