My guess is the seat pan shorted it out.
My guess is the seat pan shorted it out.
My guess is the seat pan shorted it out.
Examineing the melted base suggests there might be components in there that maybe got compressed into unnatural Circuits by a combination of fiberglass flex and my bodyweight causing that flex.
My wife asked if there was yellow dust on her car. These panic decisions we make sometimes don't look good on instant replay...Sorry to see that happen. If it had to happen, it was fortunate to have it happen when & where it did. Thankful a fire extinguisher was handy and you got to it - apparently - quickly.
Thank you. My son, a recent XS650 owner said, "Hell dad, good thing you weren't surrounded by dry grass and cornfields. "Sorry to see that happen. If it had to happen, it was fortunate to have it happen when & where it did. Thankful a fire extinguisher was handy and you got to it - apparently - quickly.
While working on a vintage aluminum racecar body, our rookie welder got a little fire going when some solvent and oil in a seam caught fire. He freaks out and starts yelling for a fire extinguisher. He was amazed when I put it out with water and a rag. I then explained to him that unless he wanted to wash everything in the shop he might want to keep some water and rags near the welding table.My wife asked if there was yellow dust on her car. These panic decisions we make sometimes don't look good on instant replay...
My guess is the seat pan shorted it out.
After closer inspection I am pretty sure my buffed and chiseled 210 lb svelte physique pressed/distorted/bent that 16 ga. seat pan base down and the fiberglass tailsection was bouncing on the case of the reserve light unit. That pan base has an opening the size of the reserve light unit so there was never metal contact. I am guessing (?) the pounding did internal damage causing a short through components that are not designed/sized to flow 12v to ground.
Feedback loops! Thanks, another pecidillo. was aiming at the 1400-1500 range, I will aim lower. I was concerned about being too low for the charging system. I will aim for that 1100-1200 range next time I am warmed up. When does advance start happening? Was there ever a re curve trick?You may need to simply set your idle speed lower. You can't set the idle speed on a cold motor. It will be too high once warmed up. It takes some foolin' around to get the idle set just fast enough at cold idle so it won't stall but not too fast so it will be idling too high once warmed up. There's also a fine line as far as the idle speed goes. The factory spec of 1100 to 1200 RPMs is what to shoot for. Much more than that and the ignition starts into it's advance curve and that increases the idle speed. Then that higher speed causes more advance, and an even higher speed. It's a self-feeding thing and may be what you're experiencing now.
Unless you plan on spending a lot of time at idle, I wouldn't worry about charging. Mine is about break even at idle.I was concerned about being too low for the charging system.
Depends in the iggy system. Mechanical advances usually start at about 18-2000rpm.When does advance start happening?
Something I will have to examine. I think the Probe 65 unit has it's own advance. I remember seeing an empty cavity on my right side cam cover but will need to double check.Unless you plan on spending a lot of time at idle, I wouldn't worry about charging. Mine is about break even at idle.
Soon as I put it in gear and head off, it's charging.
Depends in the iggy system. Mechanical advances usually start at about 18-2000rpm.
I synced the carb pretty good and packed the manometer to return to @mm1ut1 . Then considered my journey thus far. I had gotten inconsistent or confusing results adjusting mixture screws to this point. So much so that I returned them to 1 1/2 turns. Considering this I decided I need to be sure. Today I warmed up the bike on a meandering city ride and played with the air mixture screw. Now that the carbs are in sync the mix screws are very responsive. I rigged the manometer and it did need just a touch of sync adjustment.So @mm1ut1 confirmed that ther are some "shakes" going on here. I discovered last night that my carbs have a vacuum port easily accessible and in some thread @jetmechmarty was able to sync carbs with tank one. @mm1ut1 brought over a manometer and I discovered my sync was pretty far off.View attachment 218429View attachment 218430
I rigged the manometer and it did need just a touch of sync adjustment.