6.7 - 7.2 volts at the +brush. 11.5 out of the ignition switch. I'll look at the regulator next. I was hoping to ride it once befor the snow flies.
-
Enjoy XS650.com? Consider making a donation to help support the site.
XS650.com receives a small share of sales from some links on this page, but direct donations have a much greater impact on keeping this site going.
New to me XS 650...
- Thread starter Kevin Werner
- Start date
If it is the stock regulator there are service instructions on line
If it is a electronic regulator ..a new one can be a fast forward solution .
Personally I gave up on the mechanical regulator a few years ago.
Especially is it so with a non stock ignition that can protest if Voltage is off.
There are connectors and fuse holders and so to consider
11.5 is low but with a new regulator perhaps still enough.
If it is a electronic regulator ..a new one can be a fast forward solution .
Personally I gave up on the mechanical regulator a few years ago.
Especially is it so with a non stock ignition that can protest if Voltage is off.
There are connectors and fuse holders and so to consider
11.5 is low but with a new regulator perhaps still enough.
Key on 11.5 to Bron wire. 11.5 to regulator. 6.6-7.2 at brushes. What solid state reg is recommended?
I am in Europe
Please google or someone in USA come in I Use Bosch type regulator 3 pin that appears to work well
But most likely is not common in the US
But I have seen other more suited here ,on the forum ...and a cross reference list .
Perhaps there is a " Slam Dunk " solution
That might be enough for at least a slight charge. What's the battery voltage when you rev it to about 3500rpm? If it's higher than battery voltage at rest, you could probably get that ride in "before the snow flies."
VR-115 is the s/s regulator you're looking for. Have a read here.
Very pretty bike but if it was mine I'd put the stock front fender &/or some kinda aftermarket fork brace on it.
The XS650's wibbly-wobbly stock front forks need all the help they can get.
That is the plan. I have a regulator issue to examine and address if needed first.
1st ride on an XS today in 40 years.
Maybe it's the 750 kit but I enjoyed the power 2500 -4000rpm alot.
Show us what you've got now. This is what the old stock mechanical regulator looks like on the '79 and older bikes. If you have this, it can be adjusted for a higher output, and many need that done to them .....
As far as the brushes go, I never measured voltage at them, just checked their length. They are considered a wear item and when they get too short, they can start losing contact and have to be replaced. New length is about 14mm, and the wear limit is about half that, 7mm. Originals will have a wear line etched in the side to help you determine if they're still good .....
As far as the brushes go, I never measured voltage at them, just checked their length. They are considered a wear item and when they get too short, they can start losing contact and have to be replaced. New length is about 14mm, and the wear limit is about half that, 7mm. Originals will have a wear line etched in the side to help you determine if they're still good .....
My brushes measured yesterday to roughly 1/2 inch so I am right at 13-14mm. I have that regulator and the green wire has approximately 7v key on motor not running. That matches the + brush reading. I did not see a "regulator adjust" in the Technical /Specification section. Did I miss it?Show us what you've got now. This is what the old stock mechanical regulator looks like on the '79 and older bikes. If you have this, it can be adjusted for a higher output, and many need that done to them .....
As far as the brushes go, I never measured voltage at them, just checked their length. They are considered a wear item and when they get too short, they can start losing contact and have to be replaced. New length is about 14mm, and the wear limit is about half that, 7mm. Originals will have a wear line etched in the side to help you determine if they're still good .....
It's in the shop manual. Can't remember if you grabbed the manual yet...
It's been a while since I've done one, but I don't recall ever doing it the way the manual says. I just clean the contacts if they're pitted, and turn the adjust screw in a half turn or so. Crank the bike and measure the battery at about 3-3500rpm. I'll shoot for 14- 14.5v. Back the screw out a bit if you went too far... or in a bit more if it's not high enough. Once you're happy, make sure the screw's locknut is good and snug and put the cover back on.
The gaps were off on mine. Resetting them to the proper spec brought the charge rate back up. I actually didn't even have to play with the adjuster screw. Here's a diagram I "doctored". Note the part about putting the cover back on and how it will reduce the output slightly .....
Love the look of your bike. Someone did some nice work getting it set up as a tracker. Hope you get to ride it a bit before the snow comes. Enjoy!
@5twins ... what manual are your instructions out of? There's a few differences between yours and the info out of the 78 to 80 manual I copied from. Yours says to adjust a little high because installing the cover will cause a slight drop. I don't recall ever seeing that happen in practice. And I'm speaking broadly here. These old vibrating regulators were used in cars, airplanes, boats... pretty much anything using an alternator. Anyone else ever see a drop when the cover's installed?
The other difference is my manual calls for disconnecting the red rectifier output wire (that goes to the battery) and measure alternator output on that disconnected wire. I've never done that on any bike, car etc that I've adjusted. Just measure the battery voltage which will show the alternator output is what I was taught. Anyone do it by disconnecting that wire?
The other difference is my manual calls for disconnecting the red rectifier output wire (that goes to the battery) and measure alternator output on that disconnected wire. I've never done that on any bike, car etc that I've adjusted. Just measure the battery voltage which will show the alternator output is what I was taught. Anyone do it by disconnecting that wire?
As I said, my diagram is "doctored". Most is from the manual but I added comment "d." and labeled the diagram more (added #13 and #14). I also converted the MM gap measurements to inches. The comment about the voltage dropping a little with the cover on is what happened with mine. Maybe it doesn't with all of them? I would say it's pertinent to test with the cover on and off just to see if it does. I never tested at the rectifier red wire either, just at the battery.
Other bikes used this regulator and their manuals sometimes give more info. I found this tidbit in the XS750 triple manual. What I found interesting is that it says to check it every 8K miles .....
Other bikes used this regulator and their manuals sometimes give more info. I found this tidbit in the XS750 triple manual. What I found interesting is that it says to check it every 8K miles .....
Thanks Jim and 5twins. I will get a few short rides in. I do need to brush up on riding skills. A 6 ish mile ride today pulled the battery down from 12.80 to 12.73. I have decent weather now but babysit a grandaughter 5 days a week. Getting at the regulator is a slow task as the tail section is bolted down and I gotta be careful not to scratch/chip.
I have that regulator. I admit that wienered up 1 of the screws with a #1 Phillips and will have to reassess that when I get into it again.Show us what you've got now. This is what the old stock mechanical regulator looks like on the '79 and older bikes. If you have this, it can be adjusted for a higher output, and many need that done to them .....
As far as the brushes go, I never measured voltage at them, just checked their length. They are considered a wear item and when they get too short, they can start losing contact and have to be replaced. New length is about 14mm, and the wear limit is about half that, 7mm. Originals will have a wear line etched in the side to help you determine if they're still good .....
Well, I guess we should mention that most of the Phillips screws on this bike are not really Phillips screws but rather J.I.S. type cross points. They use and need a different type of screwdriver. Normal American Phillips screwdrivers don't fit them correctly. That's why you often find many of the screw heads buggered up on old Japanese bikes. What I use most are the Vessel 2" long power bits .....
Thanks. I did see the JIS explanation in another thread but I of course do not have JIS and have never seen them at various stores.Well, I guess we should mention that most of the Phillips screws on this bike are not really Phillips screws but rather J.I.S. type cross points. They use and need a different type of screwdriver. Normal American Phillips screwdrivers don't fit them correctly. That's why you often find many of the screw heads buggered up on old Japanese bikes. What I use most are the Vessel 2" long power bits .....
I suppose one day I should break down and buy some real JIS bits too.
I've always just used a bench grinder and modified phillips bits. Never stripped a screw with these, so....
Yeah... I know... somebody flog me.
I've always just used a bench grinder and modified phillips bits. Never stripped a screw with these, so....
Yeah... I know... somebody flog me.
Yes, J.I.S. screwdrivers are somewhat of a specialty tool, but you really need them for working on old Jap bikes. Google "JIS screwdriver" and lots will come up. If you want really good ones, Google "Vessel JIS screwdriver". These ball grip ones they make are very nice .....
https://www.vesseltools.com/handtools/screwdrivers/ballgrip/220-series-detail
You will want/need 3 sizes, the #1, #2, and #3. As I mentioned, I like the 1/4" insert bits and use them the most. Used in a small knurled bit holder, they're perfect for all the small screws on carbs and in handlebar switches .....
For really tight and stuck screws (or carb jets), I fit them into a T-handle holder .....
https://www.vesseltools.com/handtools/screwdrivers/ballgrip/220-series-detail
You will want/need 3 sizes, the #1, #2, and #3. As I mentioned, I like the 1/4" insert bits and use them the most. Used in a small knurled bit holder, they're perfect for all the small screws on carbs and in handlebar switches .....
For really tight and stuck screws (or carb jets), I fit them into a T-handle holder .....
Similar threads
