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New to th forum 1982 650 Heritage Special
- Thread starter Sheldon
- Start date
Ok I have the bike running. It is ideling poorly. I paid $200.00 for the bike, Two Kenda tires from Amazon $193.50, a Mighty Max battery from Amazon $46.30, for a total of $439.80 so far. Tires arrive today so I'm going to get the mounted tomorrow. That will add another $60.00. So just under $500.00. 
I am removing the carbs today and cleaning the parts in my ultra sonic cleaner. I use a guitar E string to clean the idle jet before putting it in the USC.
I am removing the carbs today and cleaning the parts in my ultra sonic cleaner. I use a guitar E string to clean the idle jet before putting it in the USC.
Using steel wire to clean passageways in zinc castings is a very bad idea. Best thing to use is strands from copper electrical wire.
Yes, using soft copper wire that wants to bend over at the slightest provocation is a royal pain in the ass, but ruining a finely machined passageway (and eventually the carb) is even more painful.
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Another $200 Special, lol. If the factory caps are still in place over the mix screws, you'll need to remove them so you can get the mix screws out. You can't do a proper carb cleaning with the mix screws still installed.
For me, they come clean with carburetor cleaner or I replace them. Steel wire is not an option.
Still applies.the guitar strings thing is bogus too.
Also a soft metal that scratches easily with steel wire.
And the string not necessarily steel There are Nickel and Nylon .. But point is to be careful
Not trying to be an A-hole ( really I don't have to try) 
But just using old jets that have been sitting eroding in a nasty witches brew of rancid gasoline and who knows what else erodes the brass, once the varnish is removed the jets will already be a bit bigger than how the factory made them.
Idle screws, passages, the choke orifice in the bottom of the float bowl, the air bleeds in the emulsion tube (needle jet body) only accessed by removing it and absurdly small orifice in the pilot jet all best cleaned with nothing harder than copper.
But just using old jets that have been sitting eroding in a nasty witches brew of rancid gasoline and who knows what else erodes the brass, once the varnish is removed the jets will already be a bit bigger than how the factory made them.
Idle screws, passages, the choke orifice in the bottom of the float bowl, the air bleeds in the emulsion tube (needle jet body) only accessed by removing it and absurdly small orifice in the pilot jet all best cleaned with nothing harder than copper.
Best way I've found to clean nasty ol' brass jets... is with a credit card.Not trying to be an A-hole ( really I don't have to try)
But just using old jets that have been sitting eroding in a nasty witches brew of rancid gasoline and who knows what else erodes the brass, once the varnish is removed the jets will already be a bit bigger than how the factory made them.
Idle screws, passages, the choke orifice in the bottom of the float bowl, the air bleeds in the emulsion tube (needle jet body) only accessed by removing it and absurdly small orifice in the pilot jet all best cleaned with nothing harder than copper.
I usually end up replacing the mains and pilots mostly because I'm re-jetting for mods and need larger sizes. But, stock sizes are often replaced as well because of the wear Gary mentioned or the P.O. buggering up the screwdriver slots, lol. The BS34s came set up very lean from the factory and a totally stock bike will run better with one size larger mains installed (#135). The stock pilot is usually OK but you can richen the idle circuit a little by decreasing the air jet size. The air jet is a way of "fine tuning" the idle circuit. It doesn't have as big an effect as changing the actual pilot jet does .....
Stock size was a #135. Install a #132.5 or #130.
Stock size was a #135. Install a #132.5 or #130.
Altho you fixed a bad connection in the fuse box, if the box is an OEM unit it would be a good idea to replace it. By this age, they are falling apart and will likely cause you more headaches.
Here is one simple approach to replacement: snip all the fuse wires to appropriate lengths (progressively longer as you go so that they fall together nicely), labelling each as you go. Connect modern fuses of the correct amperage with simple female .25 wire crimp connectors (Walmart has the connectors and fuses in the auto department) like I did here:
....and then stuff them all into a section of bicycle inner tube for insulation:
Here is one simple approach to replacement: snip all the fuse wires to appropriate lengths (progressively longer as you go so that they fall together nicely), labelling each as you go. Connect modern fuses of the correct amperage with simple female .25 wire crimp connectors (Walmart has the connectors and fuses in the auto department) like I did here:
....and then stuff them all into a section of bicycle inner tube for insulation:
This is exactly the instructions I have followed on two Specials. Both have stock pipes and airboxes. Both start/run perfectly. Both return 50-55 mpg. Some color on the plugs.
Mine have reproduction replacement fuse panels. If they last as long as OEM, I’ll be over 100 years old.
I'll also mention that we recommend using only genuine Mikuni jets. Luckily, the jets used in these carbs are very common ones and available most anywhere.
I have done it many times. I have restored many bike. But your entiteled to your opinion.
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Actually it's just common sense... harder metals scratch and deform softer metals... simply physics really. You're entitled to your opinion also, but that doesn't change the laws of physics.
Pay to identify where the bike came from. US and Canadian carb jet, needles and needle jet set up was different on the BS34's.
If the vin starts with 5V5 it's Canadian. 5V4 it's a US model.
https://www.xs650.com/threads/carb-id-mikuni-cvs-bs38-bs34-70-84.43392/
If the vin starts with 5V5 it's Canadian. 5V4 it's a US model.
https://www.xs650.com/threads/carb-id-mikuni-cvs-bs38-bs34-70-84.43392/
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