New to XS650

Yes, I do have a NAPA store in town. However, have already ordered an AGM battery said to be designed for XS650's elsewhere. My TX650 friend had read that for my model year (1983) you need to ensure the battery is rated for 12 Ah or better. This one is rated 14Ah and 210 CCA. Will see how it works.

Thanks for the info though. Will keep it in mind.
This is what is in my XS650. Has worked very well.

https://www.yuasabatteries.com/batt...ear=1983&vehicle_model=xs650&vehicle_id=29671

And yes, "L" is mandatory.
 
Had a very successful day today. Started to put the bike back together with a new battery, put the original tail light and license plate light back on, installed the new Torch spark plug caps and the new NGK BPR7ES plugs and reinstalled the old signal relay that I thought wasn't working.

My friend John was over (1974 TX650) and after getting things ready, we decided to see if the bike would start. With some help from Quick Start, we got it running very quickly. Idle was way too high so we played with that. Checked all the lights (all ok) and the turn signals now flashed as required. Electric start sounded like we were killing someone at times, but John says that is normal for the 650's. Kick start also worked, as did the brake lights (I installed LEDs in the brake light). After running the engine on and off several times to make sure oil was freely flowing (the bike has not been ridden for 10 years, but had been started during that time), I then drained the oil and put new oil in (Lucas oil as recommended on this site).

After the oil change, I started the bike again and it actually seemed to be purring like a kitten. We have not tried to shift gears at all yet and since it is not licensed I cannot take it for a spin on the street (we noticed a police car sitting across the street from me waiting for speeders).

But overall a very positive day! I am missing a couple of nuts to hold the mufflers on and we need to sort out a better gas line arrangement. A few more things to do and hopefully I can take it for a safety certificate and get it plated for the road. Starting last year, Ontario set new guidelines for motorcycle safety certificates which mean more work for the mechanic doing the safety and more cost for the owner. I need new tires so I will likely find someone who will do the tires and the safety at the same time since the wheels have to be pulled as part of the safety. May as well put new tires on at that time.

Feeling like this project is coming together quite nicely!

Thanks to those on this site for advice and help. It has been useful. I'm sure I am not done yet with my questions since I am only know starting to look at properly tuning this engine.

Cheers!
 
So the bike now has a new battery, new plugs, new non-resistor caps to go with the resistor plugs and several of the original features are back in place (tail light, license plate light). I sanded and painted the levers (they were pretty scratched up) and of course there are 4 new signal lights since two broke when the bike fell over. Since I installed the centre stand, I hope that won't happen again.

The bike has started several times and I actually rode it on the neighbours driveway behind my house (not licensed for the street yet). I managed to get it up over 30 kph and shifted into 3rd gear (he has a long driveway). After a few starts, the engine seems to be purring like a kitten, but I doubt the carbs are in sync yet. But I am hopeful things will continue to go well.

One major problem I do have is kick starting. All three bikes I have owned (not counting the '64 Allstate) have been electric start. I have managed to kick start it a couple of times, but I also felt like I nearly broke my ankle with the kick back from the kick start. My friend with the '74 TX650 says I have to be more aggressive and assertive with my kicks. If anyone has some suggestions, please let me know. As you probably know, the Yamaha electric starts have been known to be very fickle. You gotta know how to kick start these bikes. Besides, isn't that the point of these vintage bikes?

I have spoken to a motorcycle mechanic, in fact the one I was visiting when I met the previous owner of the bike and got talking about his several 650's. Matt says he will gladly put new tires on the bike and arrange for a safety certificate. If the bike passes, and it should, I can get it on the road and then start to get it properly tuned. I will speak with Matt Monday, and hopefully he can work on the bike fairly quickly. Here's hoping!

Happy July 4th to all the American 650 owners! My daughter lives in LA and will be marrying a great guy next year. Look up Jukebox the Ghost band or check out the Extremely Accurate Birds podcast or calendar.

I will update once the bike has been certified.
 
Double check the static timing isn't advanced, that'll make it kick back.

I don't kick start my 650D, but if I did, I'd slowly turn the motor over on the kick starter till I felt a piston just go over TDC compression. Then return the kick starter to the top and kick like I meant it.
 
It's helpful to add your bike model to your signature. Helps with answering or suggesting a course of action if we know what you got without digging back through previous posts. IE 83 heritage special all stock or 74 tracker. See IBALT's excellent siggy... Suggestions for kick back are different on a TCI bike vs a points model. IBALTs suggestion on timing is spot on. Ditto kicking technique. The late model TCI do have some adjustment available. If it's going to a tech anyways; a timing light and screw driver can do the deed in minutes.
 
Mine - '78 XS-SE - the kick technique is push down slowly till you feel the first bump of compression, bring the kicker up, and push down slowly till you feel a second bump of comp, bring the kicker up again, open throttle a small amount, one long decent shove and, mine at least, starts nearly every time. Sounds a rigamarole but gets to be habit pretty soon.

The e-start don't start the bike - I know I should fix it coz right now it's just useless extra weight. You don't need to kick hard or particularly fast so don't snatch at it - just be positive and mine at least has never kicked back at me. I'll endorse IBALT's point about over advanced timing causes kick back.
 
Thank you for all of the suggestions. I am going to keep at it, including checking the timing and practicing my kick. If I can get it certified next week and on the road, I think a good run will help get the engine back to "normal", or at least used to running again. The bike was well stored, but not run for 10 years other than the occasional start. I have changed the oil after a run a couple of days ago, so that is fresh along with fresh gas. I know that Matt (mechanic I am taking it to for tires) is familiar with 650's having recently worked on 650's for the previous owner of my bike, so I will ask him to give it a once over.

I appreciate the advice!
 
Here are a couple of pictures of the project.

Had a bad day today. I cleaned the bike as part of step one of the project. I then took the seat off to get at all of the tank for cleaning. Somehow the bike moved forward and fell over on the left side before I could grab it. Broke both the front and rear signal lights and looks like the shifter got bent as well. Tough lesson about the side stand. The previous owner took off the centre stand, which I would have used during cleaning. Installation of the centre stand is probably step 2.

This is just the beginning of the project so there are parts not on the bike yet. The mufflers are not even attached completely and the left hand mirror is not on properly. I plan on putting the original brake light back on the bike as well as the license plate light, both of which I have. I have ordered a new battery and am currently sourcing new plugs.

But my wife made plastic covers for two chairs (one for me and one for my friend, the '74 TX650 owner). That way the chairs won't get dirty (she thinks).

Tomorrow will be another day.

View attachment 372381View attachment 372383

Haven't been ardently following your thread. Do have some points on the bike that needs to b taken into account. Especially the carbs.

Post some closer pics of the carbs for better ID

They look like BS38's. BS38's are on all models from 70-79 bothe Specials and Standards. (Refer back to the ID link I posted in my earlier post), they are a linked set, means either 76-77 carbs or 78-79 carbs. Carbs changed every 2 years, (although they are still BS38's), but the jetting changed when the carbs changed.

Notice the grab rail is missing, that usually incorporates the brake/taillight, yours looks to have an earlier 78/79 Special rear guard and taillight.
@lakeview is an expert on Canadian models.

Have you done a Vin # check?

So the bike now has a new battery, new plugs, new non-resistor caps to go with the resistor plugs and several of the original features are back in place (tail light, license plate light). I sanded and painted the levers (they were pretty scratched up) and of course there are 4 new signal lights since two broke when the bike fell over. Since I installed the centre stand, I hope that won't happen again.

The bike has started several times and I actually rode it on the neighbours driveway behind my house (not licensed for the street yet). I managed to get it up over 30 kph and shifted into 3rd gear (he has a long driveway). After a few starts, the engine seems to be purring like a kitten, but I doubt the carbs are in sync yet. But I am hopeful things will continue to go well.

One major problem I do have is kick starting. All three bikes I have owned (not counting the '64 Allstate) have been electric start. I have managed to kick start it a couple of times, but I also felt like I nearly broke my ankle with the kick back from the kick start. My friend with the '74 TX650 says I have to be more aggressive and assertive with my kicks. If anyone has some suggestions, please let me know. As you probably know, the Yamaha electric starts have been known to be very fickle. You gotta know how to kick start these bikes. Besides, isn't that the point of these vintage bikes?

I have spoken to a motorcycle mechanic, in fact the one I was visiting when I met the previous owner of the bike and got talking about his several 650's. Matt says he will gladly put new tires on the bike and arrange for a safety certificate. If the bike passes, and it should, I can get it on the road and then start to get it properly tuned. I will speak with Matt Monday, and hopefully he can work on the bike fairly quickly. Here's hoping!

Happy July 4th to all the American 650 owners! My daughter lives in LA and will be marrying a great guy next year. Look up Jukebox the Ghost band or check out the Extremely Accurate Birds podcast or calendar.

I will update once the bike has been certified.

1983 Canadian Heritage Soecial. My cold morning starts in NZ. Winter frosty morning with -° wind chill factor. Would sit in a sunny spot out of the wind for at least a half an hour or more before attempting to start.
Full choke,
push down on kick lever till it hits compression.
Raise lever to the top and gently push down till it hits compression.
Raise it again and repeat till kick lever is at top of kick.
Kick through to bottom of kick as hard and fast as possible. I would use my full weight on kick through.

Once the bike was running and riding, warmed up the electric start would start the bike every time. 3 or 4 revolution and it would catch. If it didn't I never cranked it over more than 6 times before stopping and trying again. To easy to drain the battery on electric start if it doest fire.

When the bike was cold it could take up to 3 kicks on first start in the morning after a cold night.

Once it starts it would b rough, had to feather the throttle to keep it running. It's a work in progress to ease off the choke, while it is warming up enough for it to idle without choke. Could take a minute or two to get off the choke, even then the throttle had to b feathered or it would stall.

The choke on the 83 was cable and lever on the bottom of the left bar switch. Could move the choke in increments.

Your carbs choke is either on or off, lever from the side, so it will take a bit more warming up on full choke and feathering the throttle when taking the choke off.
Every bike has its own character, so you will need to find that, all our ways to do it is a guide that is best for our bikes with a general similarity.

Again need to ID your carbs for jetting purposes.
 
Thanks 5twins and 650 Skull. Helpful information. Especially about how to kick it. I am going to learn how to do that, so your suggestions are appreciated.

Mine is definitely a 1983 Heritage Special. I checked the VIN and identifies it as a 1983 Canadian 650. The previous owner made some modifications but kept many original parts, including the "Heritage Special" side case badges which I will put back on once the bike is certified, plated and road ridable.

I will also post some more recent pictures as the grab rail is back on, the rear brake light back on, and the original license plate light back on. So it is starting to look more original. I noted the side cases that came with the bike are plastic, not metal. Not sure if that is original, but I noted the HS badges were not screwed on like the "Yamaha" badges on the tank. Must have been "glued" on in some way. I will used two sided tape.

The carbs are 34's not 38's. Not sure if the previous owner changed that or the bike came with 34's, but he gave me a set of 38's as well. Not sure why - maybe just to play with them to see how they work. When we took the bowls off the carbs on the bike, they were perfectly clean. The previous owner was picky that way in terms of how he cared for his bikes. My choke is a simple on/off lever. No gradients.

Started the bike today, but had to use the electric start as kicking did not get it going. But even the electric start does not always work and complains loudly at times. And then the next time, starts it right up. Rode the bike on the lane behind me again and definitely got it into 3rd gear. Afterward did a run down of what Ontario requires for a safety certificate. Since what I have is not a check list of how the mechanic goes through a safety, only areas that are examined, I am guessing somewhat if the bike is ready. However, the mechanic putting on the new tires will have a look to see if he is aware of anything not yet right to pass the safety. It would have been great if he could do the safety too, but he is not yet licensed for that.

Will have a better idea Monday on when the tires and safety can be done.

Happy July 4th!
 
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