New xs owner

Sorry, I don't have an answer to your question about sprockets & spacers but in the photo from above, it looks as though the spacer is a bit on the wide side ie holding the chain slightly too far out. Have you checked the chain alignment?
Yeah it’s definitely too far out alignment seems fine but
2BDE9C0A-946B-4D0C-8116-EB1C0F21D2A4.jpeg
FDE7C34E-61C9-4D3A-B670-07A6FF455C6B.jpeg
F6809C37-D79F-4F66-B830-27569AA8F09C.jpeg
 
So just generally looking over the bike and getting to know what’s what Iam not that happy with front cog ⚙️ it’s been welded on with spacer welded to compensate for wide back wheel 🛞 so what happens when the front cog needs changing any ideas? Is there a spacer set up that doesn’t need welding? Any thoughts or ideas I would be great full 😊 thanks View attachment 237375View attachment 237376View attachment 237377View attachment 237378
That sprocket actually appears to be well made. Dunno about what appears to be a safety wire method - perhaps Jim or Marty can comment. There is one off-the-shelf alternative that I'm aware of:
https://cognitomoto.com/products/17-tooth-3-8-9-5mm-offset-sprocket-for-xs650?variant=32024267882611
 
Front sprocket looks very nicely done, there was a small company/guy specialized in doing that Gary Poh?
Found his site but it smells of dust n cobwebs. ZERO pics of the conversion kit on a quick look about.
https://xs650widetire.webs.com/
prolly get someone to machine that apart and weld on another sprocket when the time comes.
The joys of custom bike ownership.
I'd be more worried about the type of PO you have, evidenced by the chicanery on that starter gear cover bodge up. That's not the only dodgy work you're going to find.
Were that in my garage I'd be opening motor covers and looking for, removing excess silicone seal BEFORE it blocked an oil passage................
you'd better buy a 6mm bottoming tap and hope like hell you don't have many stripped threads.
 
Thanks for all replies what do you all think to the chain idler View attachment 237402
Yeah - I don't like it: not well done. I posted an alternative above.

While we're on the subject; PO has installed master link backward (I prefer riveted master too)
 
Thanks for all replies what do you all think to the chain idler View attachment 237402
Oh boy!
I wouldn't ride that. And I'm NOT a panty twister kind of worrier.
I can see WHY it was done but it's WAY wrong.
It was done to keep the chain from banging the electrics can.
It's on the wrong side of the chain, you don't install tensioners on the pull side of a chain drive.
It's only supported on one side. Under high load it could (eventually will) twist and destroy everything within reach of a busted chain flailing around.
Bracket, shaft all look way undersized for the loads they will encounter. Looks like a lot of offset between mount and chain centerline adding to stresses.
The sprocket is well past worn out. I can only assume a worn out sprocket was installed, cuz idlers don't wear.
You've got some wrench time ahead of you before "rider"
XS650's don't have filters stock, but yeah the side screen is missing.
You better check the sump screen too!
 
Don't get discouraged - the bike has a lot of potential and it's worth doing. Perhaps the original builder sold it and the next guy cobbled some things:shrug:

Anyway, it's an adjustment of expectations (not quick and easy fixes); just take a deep breath, continue to take "inventory" of the issues and plan an attack, addressing one issue at a time👍
 
On the bright side, idler sprocket looks like a relatively easy fix. Just move it down a few holes and pick up the lower chain run.... like it shoulda been all along. 'Lectrics can will need remake/relocating, but it needs fixing. Won't last long at all as it is.
Far as the safety wire goes... can't tell what he has goin' on. :umm:
 
Dunno about what appears to be a safety wire method -
I can't imagine. To properly safety wire that, a hole has to be drilled into the lip of the sprocket. The safety wire goes between the nut and the sprocket as to pull the nut towards tight. A broken safety wire (stainless, not copper) becomes an indicator that the nut has come loose. I think that would be quite handy to have that indication.
 
It was done to keep the chain from banging the electrics can.
gggGary's right - just noticed that issue - That rear sprocket looks larger than normal; how many teeth? If over 34T you'll want a smaller sprocket back there (ideally 32T) and that may fix the issue of clearing the electrics can too.

Edit: if 18T front (per gggGary) then a 34T rear is good, but I think the existing rear is mid 40's??
 
Last edited:
The bike certainly has potential, but as others have said...go over it all with a fine tooth comb first.

Its obvious the previous owner was one of those type folks I'm always talking to my Grandson about when we're out working on one of my new acquisitions out in my shop.

I always tell him "See this right here?" (usually looking at a badly bodged repair of some sort) "This right here is why some people should never, ever touch tools!!".

Unfortunately, its all part of the experience of buying someone's previous project...you never know what you're gonna find.
 
The bike certainly has potential, but as others have said...go over it all with a fine tooth comb first.

Its obvious the previous owner was one of those type folks I'm always talking to my Grandson about when we're out working on one of my new acquisitions out in my shop.

I always tell him "See this right here?" (usually looking at a badly bodged repair of some sort) "This right here is why some people should never, ever touch tools!!".

Unfortunately, its all part of the experience of buying someone's previous project...you never know what you're gonna find.
My old crew chief at Brumos always said that you should have to pass a test before being able to buy RTV silicone.
 
gggGary's right - just noticed that issue - That rear sprocket looks larger than normal; how many teeth? If over 34T you'll want a smaller sprocket back there (ideally 32T) and that may fix the issue of clearing the electrics can too.

Edit: if 18T front (per gggGary) then a 34T rear is good, but I think the existing rear is mid 40's??
A VERY common issue, the XS650 uses one of the smallest rear sprockets in all of motorcycledom. Finding a different wheel with a small enough bolt circle to fit even a 36 tooth, which would be barely highway suitable is no easy task. GS500 rear is one donor on the (very) short list. And that will need a custom sprocket.
gs500 rear wheel.jpg


Just riffing but my guess as to what you have; a guy got big ideas and started building a high bux project. When he realized he was in over his head and there was no way to correctly assemble all the parts he bought; the project was sold to flipper, he lashed it together and sold it on to an unsuspecting buyer as a "just needs a new battery to run" bike.
 
Last edited:
Thanks for all your input and advice I realise this is not a simple quick turn around so I think it’s getting stripped down and start again
Any thoughts on slight offset to engine in frame I do like the wheels (triumph) thanks
Offsetting the engine is typically difficult to achieve, but you do have a custom frame, so perhaps it's possible. From the pics, it looks like the rear wheel might be a candidate for more offset by making spacers to move it to the right.

First step is to measure how much the countershaft sprocket has been offset vs. stock - the original guard plate over the shift shaft is still there for a reference. We know that a 3/8" offset replacement sprocket is available from CognitoMoto (well designed, quality stuff). They claim it fits with a 160 tire. It appears your rear tire is a 200 (~1.5" wider); a shame to lose that look, but maybe part of the answer.

And yes, per Gary, part of the answer may also involve a custom rear sprocket of the right size if a 34T -ish isn't available in the Triumph bolt pattern
 
Back
Top