all 4 ...........20amp
fuses
1x20 amp fuse for the ignition and 10amp every where else

1x20 amp fuse for the ignition and 10amp every where else
Hi JosephP,Ok ..
Are you trying to start the bike with the starter motor ?
That can be near impossible with an old bike with poor wiring and sub 12 V at the coil Even with no short in the starter circuit
Yes have done that…. Instead of using the harness in the headlight can I just wire the start/run switch direct? I’m not good with electrical but im sure there is a way to get it to work. Do you think the coil maybe bad? It appears to be the originalLoosing a volt to the coils...............have you cleaned the kill switch and ignition switch and connections inbetween
I did what you had suggested. As far as bypassing it and making a complete circuit. Sorry forgot to mention I did that.The solenoid is nothing more than a big heavy duty switch that connects the heavy cable from the battery to the heavy cable running to the starter once it is triggered. What triggers it is the two small wires connected to it. One is a R/W wire coming from the starter/headlight safety relay. The other is the L/W wire coming from the start button. The R/W is power and the L/W puts it to ground and "flips the switch" on. These two small wires are the ones you need to check to figure out why the solenoid isn't being "triggered". As I tried to explain to you in an earlier post, that R/W power wire runs through a relay on it's way to the solenoid. You made no mention of even looking for that.
Yes it’s a running bike it just won’t start with the new hand controls. Sorry the video was dark. I jumped the two bolts on the tarter solenoid to fire it up.So this is a running starting bike but it wont start with the starter button.
Nothing happens. The video is short please tell if that is right.
81 SH according to # 25
The video is to dark cannot see what is done where you start.
Please give info or a better video
If you found the wiring schematic please give info
It is a case of electrical fault finding in the starter circuit and yes it can be simpler to bypass it
It can even be a typical case where it is a good idea temporarily
Instead of using the harness in the headlight can I just wire the start/run switch direct?
via separate wires and a switch
Do you have a voltmeter and /or or test lamp
Well as mentioned before I am not an electrician and I have a wiring diagram but I’m not that confident in rewriting the whole bikebecause I’m not sure how to make everything work. If it’s not that hard than tell me good sir, how exactly should I wire the bike to make the hand controls, headlight, tail light/brake lights, turn signals, horn, etc work? Can you provide a diagram on how to do it if it’s so easy? Never wired a bike before so sorry for the ignorance.My God. Just strip all the wiring out and start over. It’s not that hard. There’s simple bare bones diagrams. You’ll be chasing gremlins for months with this stock stuff. It’s old. Start over with all new. Reg/rec on. That’s if you’re rotor and stator aren’t bad too.
I unwrapped the whole harness and going wire by wire from a stock diagram now. Making sure everything is connected where it should be. I did find some splices so the old owner had to have gotten into the harness at some point. Yes time consuming but I want to make sure it’s correct.It’s not ignorance. It’s just time consuming, if you’ve never done it before. One thing at a time. First look into your stator and ignition systems. Do they work? Look on here on how to test by using search engines. Then go on to your reg/rec. Still good? Upgrade to shunt style combo? Type of battery? Ignition switch? Then to upgrade fuse box? From there to components. Led turn signals and headlight? I honestly had a heck of time the first two. There are simplified diagrams on here. Use you manual as well. How much do you want to spend? Motogadget has some awesome stuff. I got some things at my local Autozone. Fuse box, led turn signal relay, wire connectors, etc. 12v dc is 12 vdc. Look into an aftermarket wiring harness. Surely they sell them.
Not necessarily the PO doing the splicing. There's several splices from the factory in there. Mainly the brown (power) and black (ground), but there's others too.I did find some splices so the old owner had to have gotten into the harness at some point.