Dom
XS650 Addict
So I've had all of my xs tin painted in the original colour scheme, it's been done for several weeks now but the finish still seems sift to me. In inconspicuous areas I can easily push a nail into it, is this normal for 2k paint?
Yes I read that was a good idea, I could put a heater on in my garage for a day or two for the headlight bowl and ears then bring the tank and side covers into the house. I've messaged him to ask if it's normal so I'll see what response I getTemp makes a big difference in curing paint. Can you get it somewhere hot n dry for a while?
Don't get it too hot, like an infrared heater inches away, it can blister. Can't give you an exact temp, but I'd keep it under 120F. Others who live in colder climates may chime in and give you a better answer.Yes I read that was a good idea, I could put a heater on in my garage for a day or two for the headlight bowl and ears then bring the tank and side covers into the house. I've messaged him to ask if it's normal so I'll see what response I get
The only problem with that is that there is a "window" of adhesion, usually less than 24 hrs. I've seen clear delamination (recently) on base coat that sat overnight before clearing. If it's a non-metallic you could let it dry forever and scuff it before clearing, no can do with metallic's.Kind of forgotten, solvent based paints take a while for all the solvent to evaporate. Cover them with poly clear and it takes a LONG time for those solvents to get out. I'm not a painter but a week or two after color coats to spraying a two part clear seems like a sensible approach.
A thin layer of "conventional clear" over the metallic for the scuff coat?The only problem with that is that there is a "window" of adhesion, usually less than 24 hrs. I've seen clear delamination (recently) on base coat that sat overnight before clearing. If it's a non-metallic you could let it dry forever and scuff it before clearing, no can do with metallic's.
As far as I know, if the basecoat dries past the "window" anything you paint over it is going to delaminate without mechanical adhesion. Unless you have piled the basecoat on, it should harden up pretty quick. I have had some clears not harden like I wanted them and is usually operator error, as in using the wrong heat range reducer or hardener or the hardener being old. If you don't paint a lot, old hardener can be a big problem.A thin layer of "conventional clear" over the metallic for the scuff coat?
So I've had all of my xs tin painted in the original colour scheme, it's been done for several weeks now but the finish still seems sift to me. In inconspicuous areas I can easily push a nail into it, is this normal for 2k paint?
Can you ask what "type" of paint he used? For instance, one part paints such as acrylic enamel can take weeks to cure properly.... vs. a 2K product that (can) cure in a matter of a few days.Right I've just got back from a few days away and I'm now really not sure what to do, to me the gmfinish I'd superbly soft to the point I can easily make a fingernail mark in it. I don't want to be that person but I'm just not happy with how quickly its going to mark. What should I do?
He says it's 2K, it's been done a few weeks but he says it may be slower to harden as it has had a lot of lacquer to bury the decals. I'm assured it will harden but I have reservations, it's certainly not hard like the finish on my Triumph. I'm thinking of bringing the bits indoors or heating the garage for a few days.Can you ask what "type" of paint he used? For instance, one part paints such as acrylic enamel can take weeks to cure properly.... vs. a 2K product that (can) cure in a matter of a few days.
If we knew the product, we could give better answers/suggestions.
I think that's all I can do, he's well known for his work among the restoration world in the UK, Ultimate Bike Paint is his business if you fancy a browse.Bringing it indoors to a stable, warm environment sounds like a good plan.
To be honest, it sounds a bit fishy to me. 2K should be cured after a few weeks.
Give a few days of warmth and see what happens I guess. Not much else you can do at this point.
Any idea of the brand name? Check the MSDS and Application specs for cure times?