Newly painted tank

Well, he's been in business for about 35yrs. After looking over his website, I think I'd be inclined to wait it out.... looks like he does top notch work.

https://www.ultimatebikepaint.co.uk/


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His work is definitely of a high standard, I just wasn't expecting to have such a soft finish at the moment. When I've had cars repaired the paint has been rock hard straight away. I've brought the tank inside because its the part he said he'd laid heavy coats of lacquer on so fingers crossed.
 
I've spoken to Andy @ UBP today, he seems certai the 2K lacquer will harden over the next few weeks but will happily sort it if not. How that will happen I've no idea as the decals I supplied will surely have to all come off, I still done get how a 2 pack lacquer cant be hard after this time.
 
Took a look at the site and fell over the Sutton and Marsden Café Racers. Now those are interesting brutes . . .
 
What is the warmest and driest part of your house? I have a laundry/furnace room that I store my blasting material in. The utility room with the electric water heater is also extremely warm and dry.
It's I'm the airing cupboard on the hot water tank, not massively warm in there due to the insulation on the tank but a comfortable 20°C I'd imagine
 
Sorry to bang on about this but how long do I leave it before deciding its not going to cure and go back to him? As I said before, he's happy to sort it but surely its going to have to be a complete strip back so is going to cost me another set of decals. I have to say I'm not really that happy about it as much as he's going to see me right.
 
I tend to think some warmth will help - even if your warmer is only 20C - paint curing times are typically spec'd @ 70F (US) and 80-85 better. Perhaps a sunny window pane for a few days...

Terry & Jim would know better, but I think if a re-do is needed, perhaps a good wet sanding and a "flow coat" with a hotter mix would fix any issues without getting into the graphics
 
I tend to think some warmth will help - even if your warmer is only 20C - paint curing times are typically spec'd @ 70F (US) and 80-85 better. Perhaps a sunny window pane for a few days...

Terry & Jim would know better, but I think if a re-do is needed, perhaps a good wet sanding and a "flow coat" with a hotter mix would fix any issues without getting into the graphics
Sunny window doesn't exist in the UK currently, not long hopefully!

I can put it over the pellet stove but concerned it could get too hot there.
 
Not worth the risk of overheating..
 
I'z merikan so had to convert.
20C isn't very warm, I'd want more like 30C with low humidity? Humidity matters too lower the humidity, the easier the solvent can evaporate.
Next to the pellet stove with some sheet metal between?
I thought a comment that it's cured when you can't smell anything with your nose nearly touching the paint was a good one..
This would probably be worth your time to read.
https://www.hotrodders.com/threads/2k-clearcoat-troubles.251642/
 
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Sorry to bang on about this but how long do I leave it before deciding its not going to cure and go back to him? As I said before, he's happy to sort it but surely its going to have to be a complete strip back so is going to cost me another set of decals. I have to say I'm not really that happy about it as much as he's going to see me right.
You need to get it in low humidity and above 80 F for about a week. That should kick it off. I'm sure that your products are a little different in the U.K., if it were Axalta or PPG I would probably be of more use to you. Steady dry heat should do it though.
 
Sunny window doesn't exist in the UK currently, not long hopefully!

I can put it over the pellet stove but concerned it could get too hot there.
Something else I just thought of. Talk to your painter first, but sometimes you can wet sand it with 1500 or finer paper which will allow the paint to "open Up". In other words sometimes it will get a slightly hard "shell" that keeps the solvents underneath from escaping, therefore slowing the cure. It has many coats of clear and when you do that this can happen. If you do this AND get it someplace warm and dry ( try shipping it to Italy so it can get that well deserved Mediterranean holiday), it should cure after a few days. All that's left if to buff it. But, talk to your painter first!
 
Something else I just thought of. Talk to your painter first, but sometimes you can wet sand it with 1500 or finer paper which will allow the paint to "open Up". In other words sometimes it will get a slightly hard "shell" that keeps the solvents underneath from escaping, therefore slowing the cure. It has many coats of clear and when you do that this can happen. If you do this AND get it someplace warm and dry ( try shipping it to Italy so it can get that well deserved Mediterranean holiday), it should cure after a few days. All that's left if to buff it. But, talk to your painter first!
:agree:What he said. Your painter's been in business long enough that, if you took it back to him that's likely the first thing he'd try anyway. If it were me that's be my first shot anyway. As Terry sez, talk to him and see.
 
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