No power to orange coil wire

You can use a small screw driver or any small piece of steel to check the TCI magnet in the rotor for "decent" magnetic strength.
Magnet is new or rewound from Jim and pulls feeler gauge - i tried 2 different coils with 2 different leads and caps ( one of which new ngk). new plugs may try old ones again for heck of it and both pipes were hot -
 
Checked this magnet?
 

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  • Late rotor with magnet.jpg
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Magnet is new or rewound from Jim and pulls feeler gauge - i tried 2 different coils with 2 different leads and caps ( one of which new ngk). new plugs may try old ones again for heck of it and both pipes were hot -
To be more precise the banging is perhaps misfiring on the one cylinder that can make both pipes hot
there is still some combustion happening
But assuming both pipes equal hot and acting up
It is not the carburetors.
Is the plugs looking the same ?
I would check electrics to ignition including ground - fuses - kill switch.
Maybe draw separate wires ..to be certain the physics in and out is correct
 
But I don't believe that machine in the video runs on both cylinders
Just listened again with an ear toward one cylinder dropped out. Jan might be correct. My SG does that when it hasn't been run in a long time. Soon as you fire it up, it's only running on the left with the right poppin' and stutterin'. 'course, the SG will pick up both sides within about 10 sec or so and run fine... but that's exactly what it sounds like. Never really looked into it 'cause it only happens 2 or 3 times a year.

Damon, Feel the exhaust with your hand over the muffler (like in my pic below) and you'll be able to tell which cylinder is acting up. If Jan's suspicions are correct, one side will feel regular (smooth, constant... whatever) and the other will slap your hand back every time it pops. Can you tell if it's both sides or just one?

1745268276601.png
 
Just listened again with an ear toward one cylinder dropped out. Jan might be correct. My SG does that when it hasn't been run in a long time. Soon as you fire it up, it's only running on the left with the right poppin' and stutterin'. 'course, the SG will pick up both sides within about 10 sec or so and run fine... but that's exactly what it sounds like. Never really looked into it 'cause it only happens 2 or 3 times a year.

Damon, Feel the exhaust with your hand over the muffler (like in my pic below) and you'll be able to tell which cylinder is acting up. If Jan's suspicions are correct, one side will feel regular (smooth, constant... whatever) and the other will slap your hand back every time it pops. Can you tell if it's both sides or just one?

View attachment 348519
the left side is strongest smoothest and hottest right side is weaker and has the back fires and pops - still hot and pushing air tho
 
Valves checked, set?
I have not yet as it had ran marvelously for the first 700 miles i had it - on both cylinders and sounded great -the first issues i experienced was with the charging system. The original rotor that I sent to Jime metered bad. i guess it could not hurt - also question can i check spark but holding plug on fin or will this hurt tci components- I ask because after rotor went bad. - tci sensor on original stator went bad. or maybe in all my tests i did something negative to it .
 
To do a proper carb cleaning, you'll need to remove the mix screws and their associated parts (small spring, washer, and o-ring) ......


Mix Screw 80'-on.jpg


That means you'll need to remove the plug or cap Yamaha installed over the mix screw. That is accomplished by carefully drilling into it with a 1/8" drill bit. Try not to drill all the way through it, only most of the way. There's a small hole in the center of the plug. Drill a little and check the hole, drill some more and check it again. When that small hole in the center starts getting bigger, stop drilling, you're almost all the way through. Then screw a sheet metal screw into the hole in the plug, grab it with vice grips, and pull the plug out. Grind the sharp point off the screw first so it doesn't protrude through the plug and damage the top of the mix screw .....

PlugRemoval2.jpg


PlugRemoval1.jpg


PlugRemoval3.jpg
 
@grizld1 and @5twins wrote this carb guide for our XS' It would pay to study it before you jump in...
Yes i have been reading it - it is a wonderful guide ! so I guess they will be coming off. They do have those brass caps still - which looks mildy intimidating to remove . It had been seeming like that side was a little off even when it was running well - You probably dontt rember but i mentioned that long ago and you told me about those brass caps. Thanks everyone for all the advice and to @grizld1 and @5twins for this carb guide
 
Could consider to take down the float bowl ( carbs in machine ) and remove the Pilot jet
from under -- clean or replace .
clean the tiny hole in the Float bowl
And check operation of float valve
perhaps is enough
If lucky can avoid drilling and remove them carbs
 
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