oil leaks between the cylinder and head and at the clutch pushrod oil seal

valsvik

Days has too few Hours, night included.
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On the net you often read, The most common oil leaks are between the jug and head and at the clutch pushrod oil seal under the left side cover.
Earlier my xs was leaking oil by the head gasket.
I torqued up all bolts that was affected ,and also changed out the washers covered with rubber with selfmade (in a lathe ) aluminium washers. The leak got smaller, but still sweating there by the gasket.
I removed the exhaust pipes and looked into the exh port in the cylinder head and could see coce build up on the valve and up along the shaft. I was thinking the reason for this was leaking oil seal on top of the valve bushing, and then desided to change those oil seals on the exhaust valves shaft first ( were there is most heat) ,and the oil sweat through the head gasket disapered completly. (used that method with engine in frame without splitting the head from cylinders. )

Earlier my xs was also leaking at the clutch pushrod. I bought part fra Mikesxs and drilled out and replased the bushing inside the oil seal, and installed new oil seal and that one-piece pushrod from Mikesxs.
There is instructions on Mikesxs page how to do this job.
This is 6 years ago, and still no oil leak there any more, I think that long pushrod is the reason that it hold tight so long now, as it is more steady and don`t wear so mutch on the oil seal as the short piece pushrod do.
 
There is mutch about this on the net, I just made that tool and went ahead, and you need a M8x1,0 fine thread screw. that screw down that tool with use of the threads to the valvetappet adjustment screw in the rocker arm. When you screw
IMG_0335.JPG

down the tool you press down the springs., 2 of them,, 1 inside the other.
Here is one link and I changed the picture in my profile to one with the tool installed on the intake valve side. , and you have to work through that opening, the blue thing is a thin strobe light. When you work with the exhaust valves spesially you must be careful that the valve doesnt goes too far down into the cylinder , and falls out of the it`s bushing / guide it goes in. ( if the piston is too far down.) If it does you will peoberly have to split the head from cylinder to get it back in. Some use rope that is filled into the cylinder thru spark plug hole, some use screwdrive into the sparkplug hole to insure that the valve dont go to far down . When the valve is loose , always be aware that the position of the valve is high up in the head if you have to turn the engine as piston might bend the valve if it is too far down and the piston is on ots way up and hit it.
https://www.650central.com/smoking_due_to_worn_valve_seals.htm
I also will add this text below here as I wrote something else after I sendt this the first time, this is more correct, of the situation I think.
Later in winter when bike had been parked for 2 monts , I removed the exhaust pipes and looked into the exh port in the cylinder head and could see the valve steam was wet of oil leaking down from above through the oil seals on top of the valve bushing, When bike is parked and engine not running this oil leak ends in the combuston chamber.And part of it find its way out the head gasket.
I desided to change the oil seal on the exhaust valves shaft first ,( were there is most heat) ,and after start up the oil sweat through the head gasket disapered completly and dried out of itself.. (used that method with engine in frame without splitting the head from cylinders.
 
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