Old Newbie Ignition Help

DogBunny

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I understand you wanting free, but the Pamco would be a huge improvement in my opinion if it works. I could loan you a dual tower coil, and if the Pamco works and you want to keep it, you could either buy my loaner coil cheap, or send it back to me and buy new. If you don't want to try the Pamco, I'd like it.
 

rickrman

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Can I replace my two stock coils with a dual coil that will work for both stock and electronic? Otherwise, I will buy a dual coil and see if the PAMCO fires. My stock two coils are untested so unproven. If my PAMCO doesn't fire, I will start over with my new coil and a new ignition. This will take a while but meanwhile, I will work on advance weight removal.
 

jpdevol

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YamadudeXS650C

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GLJ

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Pro's and con's of the Pamco. If it works you are golden, if it doesn't you are SOL. Points can be a pain in the ass but you can get new ones if needed and also condensers. Myself I uses Boyer have not had problem so far.
 

DogBunny

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Can I replace my two stock coils with a dual coil that will work for both stock and electronic?
No. You have to use two separate coils with points, and you have to use a single dual-tower coil with a Pamco.
Checking single coils is simple. Resistance between the two small wires should be somewhere around 3.9 ohms.
Resistance between the orange wire and the plug wire should be about 8K ohms. This can vary quite a bit depending on the resistance of the plug cap. Try testing both with the cap on and off.
 

jpdevol

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No. You have to use two separate coils with points, and you have to use a single dual-tower coil with a Pamco.
Checking single coils is simple. Resistance between the two small wires should be somewhere around 3.9 ohms.
Resistance between the orange wire and the plug wire should be about 8K ohms. This can vary quite a bit depending on the resistance of the plug cap. Try testing both with the cap on and off.
https://www.xs650.com/threads/retiredgentleman-or-any-one-else-that-has-run-this.48731/post-495519
 

rickrman

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EDIT: remove the M6 nut first. Then:
Remove circlips, and pull the weights. Try not to stretch the springs. You can leave the springs attached to the back plate posts, and the weights dangling. Remove the M6 nut. Remove the disc under the nut. Use a drift to remove the serrated-edge lock nut. Pull the back plate.
The back plate may be quite difficult to remove. I often have to resort to bending a screwdriver into a mini-prybar, and working it around the back of the plate.
I would like everything, springs, weights, disc, plate. Make sure you don't need it. See what the motor you are going to use has.
How do the circlips come off? Shall I buy a tool or use the mangle method?
 

DogBunny

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Push them off IF YOU CAN. Get them started with a wide screwdriver or narrow putty knife.
The correct way is with snap ring pliers if you have them.
As far as I'm concerned, mangling is okay because I have replacement circlips.
 

DogBunny

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Of course, one went flying to the far reaches of my garage. Lost.
Of course.
I brought this up once before, but it's been a while. In the Navy we called them Jesus clips. You would pry one off, it would go flying across the engine room never to be seen again, and you'd say "Jeeesus!."

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rickrman

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Is post fixture threaded? If it stays with the plate, it appears I will have to rotate the engine to access the 3 big=head phillips screws.
 

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DogBunny

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The 4 post and the plate that they are attached to are all one piece, it all comes off together once the serrated lock nut is removed. It just pulls (or more likely pries) off. You specifically do NOT want to try to rotate it off, or you will break a tiny alignment pin on the back side of the plate.
Try bending one or two flat tip screwdrivers into mini pry bars. It can be very stuck. If you have a heat gun, heat would probably help.
 
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