Things lined up rather nicely for me this week. Had a couple of free days before starting a new major project next week that will severely limit time in Papa's Shop. Honey only made up a short ‘H Do List’, so able to raise the shop doors.

Just entered the O.R. ready for open carb surgery.

IMG_20170525_170605.jpg



You know I never, ever, thought the day would come that I would say I enjoy working on carbs, but I find it somehow therapeutic. Huh. Been into both sets of mine more than once over the last 12 months, as well as in years past, so now it kinda feels like going home again.
It’s all the work taking everything apart to get them off and then put back on again that I hate.
And then there's the added anxiety of wondering if they'll recover from surgery.

I know we all like to beat up on Mike’s/XS 650 Direct, and sometimes for good reason but, have to give them props when due. They do sell carb starter circuit gaskets that appear to be no longer available OEM. And, they do ship fast. Order placed Monday night, received Wednesday aft. No complaints there.

Read this thread by gggGary,
http://www.xs650.com/threads/carb-t...ft-butterfly-screw-removal.46423/#post-464664

Thanks g's, great thread!

I made this throttle shaft support from a piece of hard maple from one of the scraps bins to put where the air/fuel mix and the sun don't shine. I know you guys could rebuild the carbs in the time it took me to make this, but I love an excuse to build a tool or jig and I'm back in my comfort zone…...working with wood!

IMG_20170527_162051.jpg


IMG_20170527_162553.jpg



So, to the O.R. 3 screws broke free and spun out relatively easily, with ‘STICK IT’ but, and there’s always a but, isn't there? One screw would just not let go. She hung in there, despite carefully using Vessel / Impacta JIS screwdrivers,and heat from a small soldering iron, it would not let go and eventually boogered the screw head. OK.

Back to the oft quoted, much ignored Carb Guide by 5twins and Grizld1.

I don’t know what we’d do without this amazing chronicle. Kudos gentlemen!
http://www.amckayltd.com/carbguide.pdf

Quote from this infamous document:

If the screws must be drilled out, bear in mind that a trip to the machine shop will be cheaper than new carburetors.

Huh, getting a little more concerned after reading that. This procedure obviously isn't for the faint of heart, but my other carbs have been at the machinist for over 2 weeks now, not waiting anymore. Gonna take a chance and give er a go. Figured if I mess up real bad I’ll find another butterfly shaft somewhere. If you see a new Wanted ad in the classifieds for a 78-79 BS38 butterfly shaft you'll know I didn't make out so well.

Another quote from the C-Bible.

Member Fry posted an excellent tip on removing the screws. After carefully drilling the screw heads and removing throttle springs and stops so that the plates would rotate fully, he was able to grip the staked tips of the screws with needlenose pliers and back them out. Thanks, Fry! When you reassemble, use blue Loctite and restake the screws with locking pliers (Visegrips) or waterpump pliers (Channel Locks).

This worked amazingly well. Just as described.Probably took a LOT longer than it needed to, but it was my first time and I figured slow and steady wins this race. I stopped often to check my progress , kept reducing drill bit size as I approached butterfly screw hole and kept blowing compressed air through carb inlet to remove shavings.


So far this story is marching merrily along, but now things go south fast.

When I initially inspected these new to me carbs once received, it was obvious they had suffered blunt force trauma.
If you look at the end of the throttle shaft of the right carb (left in the picture) you can see some damage.

IMG_20170511_160026.jpg


Here you can see the bent choke plunger pickle fork...

IMG_20170508_155234.jpg


And this shows the damage to the throttle shaft o-ring housing.

IMG_20170527_163525.jpg



Should have just torn them right down in the first place, but took a chance that that damage wouldn't affect the o-ring seal.
If there is a silver lining to this cloud, if I hadn't taken that chance, I still as of yet wouldn't have had her out for a few short trips.

I can't see how these can be saved. The interior brass throttle shaft sleeve is undamaged, but this dent in the o-ring housing forces the o-ring out of round so never gonna fully seal. I have nothing to lose by trying push that dent out, but I can't really see that being an effective solution. Carb bodies are soft, maybe with a little heat it could be reformed but I expect any attempt at that would just crack it and break it off. And it's pretty unrealistic to think that even if I could reform it that I would be able to be accurate enough to achieve a proper seal.

Don't have a milling machine, maybe an end mill would work, but I wonder if there would be enough meat left to do that?

Guess I could pull the carbs off 'Blackie’, my 78E, rebuild them and use them. That and clean up the electrics are the first couple of jobs on the list anyways, but I hate to do that to her and still need 2 working sets of carbs anyways.

Not every story has a happy ending, sadly this one doesn't.

Other than 'go pour yourself a double’, anybody got any suggestions?
 
Doctor Doctor gimme the news!
Dang! Everything was going so smoothly up to that point too. And I love your little " Stick It" tool.
Yeah I think you've got nothing to lose by trying to knock that dent out. If you find or make something that has that same curvature and gently try to work it out. Try to channel your inner "TwoManyX1B".
Doctor! You're needed in Papa's Shop STAT!! You can save her!
 
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Thanks Bob. Ya that's what I was thinking. Just might work. I'll wait and see if those with more experience and chops than me chime in with any advice or suggestions.

I'm half way through re-reading your entire thread and you're certainly no stranger to setbacks either.

In fact all of us in this sport know only too well what setbacks are all about. However, that being said, we are a resourceful bunch of old buggers and we will find a way!
 
Ya, just got past that one. I hadn't forgotten that one and good on ya for posting that reminder for all of us. You were lucky that neither you nor her were hurt any worse. Coulda been a whole lot worse!
 
... this dent in the o-ring housing forces the o-ring out of round so never gonna fully seal. I have nothing to lose by trying push that dent out, but I can't really see that being an effective solution. Carb bodies are soft, maybe with a little heat it could be reformed but I expect any attempt at that would just crack it and break it off. And it's pretty unrealistic to think that even if I could reform it that I would be able to be accurate enough to achieve a proper seal.

Don't have a milling machine, maybe an end mill would work, but I wonder if there would be enough meat left to do that?

...anybody got any suggestions?

Ooh, ouch. Yeah, I'd advise against trying to tap that back to round. The carb bodies are cast Zamak, doesn't take too well to blunt force, especially twice.

If it were in my shop, I'd try to recut the ID to 11.5mm.

BS38-Damage-Robinc02.jpg


Fashion a 11.5mm OD (8mm ID) facing cutter, and fit it onto an old valve. Kinda like in this picture.

71XS1B-Carbs-Seals07.jpg


Then slowly recut the seal's bore, somewhat portrayed here.

71XS1B-Carbs-Seals08.jpg


Got any hobbyist machinists in your area?
 
"domo arigatou gozaimasu" TwoMany-san for taking the time to put together this excellent response. It is so well detailed that I am tempted to have at it myself, you are an excellent teacher.

but I wonder if there would be enough meat left to do that?

I did put a circle template on the damaged area, and that lead me to think possible milling machine work. You however have well illustrated the proper method of attack.

I am not equipped with machinists tooling, (on the bucket list though), so think I will take it to the mechanic/machinist that has my original 74/75 Frankencarbs (to retap float bowl screw holes that were always sloppy and finally let go). As well, there are hobbyists in the area, and I have a good buddy who is a retired tool and die maker, will contact him as well to see if he has any contacts in the hobby.

I will print out your detailed response to take with me so we can discuss your suggestions.

So, once again no carbs. However that is my fault. When I took in my old set for machining I think I did say "NO rush, I have another set to rebuild and put on."

Maybe someday I'll actually come across a pair of proper 76/77 carbs for this 77. Although no complaints about those 78/79's, aside from damage that is.

Ah well, my next project is looking pretty sad and lonely tucked away over there.........perhaps it's time to stop ignoring her and pick up a wrench.

saraba da
 
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Well, Robinc, there's always more junk laying deep in the bottom of the "bag of tricks".

Another method would be to use a modified reamer. An 11.5mm reamer, with an 8mm shaft, backside of the ream's cutting flutes ground so that the ream will cut backwards. Example in this throttle bore repair sequence:

ThrottleReaming01.jpg ThrottleReaming02.jpg ThrottleReaming03.jpg

If you're unhappy with the resultant bore wall, you could open it up to 12mm, doing the same back-ream trick, and fit/glue a thin-wall brass sleeve in there, like the one shown in pic #2 in the post above, and these:

71XS1B-Carbs-Seals06.jpg

Those pics, plus more agony, can be found in these threads:

http://www.xs650.com/threads/1971-xs1b-bs38-carbs-throttle-shaft-bushings.43326/

http://www.xs650.com/threads/bs-ser...done-em-who-needs-to.11980/page-8#post-434227
 
Ah, interesting, thank you so much again 2M. You are indeed a man of many tricks and never cease to amaze me.
I will do my research with what you have provided so that I can discuss the matter somewhat intelligently with my machinist. Hopes are that he will say, ya been there, done that, no problem.
Even if not, as an experienced vintage bike mechanic and tool and die maker I wouldn't expect that this would be a huge challenge for him.
His resume if interested: http://wolfeworx.com/about/

I have never had any work done by him, just buy whatever OEM parts that are available through his shop to help support a little guy. But, he is well known in the area for doing quality work and he and his guys are top drawer.

Once again I appreciate your time, effort and wisdom.

Be well.
 
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When the throttle shaft is inserted without the seal is it turning free and not binding? Doesn't that end of the throttle shaft have a captive washer that would have also been hit?
 
Quite an impressive resume', that Wolfeworx.
This should be a piece of cake for him.

Another idea, much simpler, would be to chuck-up a length of 8mm allthread into the lathe chuck, to be used as a turning mandrel. Protruding just enuff to support the good throttle bore side, extending out to support at least 1/2 of the bad side.

Slide the carb onto this mandrel, good side towards the chuck, fitting an 8mm nut and soft/plastic bushing onto the allthread, inside the carb throat, fully seat the carb against the lathe chuck jaws, snug down the retaining nut.

That would give enuff tightness and rigidity to take light cuts on the ID of the damaged area.
 
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Yes Gary, good catch man. The throttle shaft does appear to be turning freely, no binding. As well, I ran it on the closest things I have to a truing plate. My cast iron table saw top and a piece of tempered glass. The throttle shaft appears to be running true, not bent, so it looks to have escaped unscathed.

The pressed on, captive washer was also a victim of this blunt force trauma.

IMG_20170527_152513 (1).jpg


I think I can straighten that washer out by inserting it in the right sized socket, then place a piece of correct ID tubing over that and and carefully tapping.

Any other suggestions and recommendations certainly welcome.

Thanks for picking up on this and for all you do.

Be well.

Edit: now that you bring it front of mind Gary, I will take the throttle shaft to Terry as well. He will have better testing equipment than me to ensure trueness.
 
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2M, thank you again for your time and continued support and advice. I will print out and take all of your suggestions to Terry to have in me back pocket as discussion points if required. Don't want to tell a man how to do his job, but don't mind having additional info on hand to help in a discussion.
 
...I think I can straighten that washer out by inserting it in the right sized socket, then place a piece of correct ID tubing over that and and carefully tapping...

Slide a thick 8mm or 5/16" washer onto the shaft, as a backup, so it's between the socket and bent endwasher...
 
An update on my carb conundrum.

After reading earlier today about gggGary's near tragedy with a rock, and Angus67’s sad news, my carb problems are pretty trivial. I am happy to hear you are both well, and hope you heal fast Angus67.

Firstly, 2M and gggGary thank you so much for your time reviewing, considering, and suggesting solutions. It is greatly appreciated.

Secondly, my apologies for perhaps wasting your time. After reviewing the excellent suggestions and documents provided by 2M, I got to thinking, (sometimes that's a good thing) that I really should get some accurate measurements.

Some of what I do to keep bread on the table is to design and build custom furniture and cabinetry, so I think in terms of 1/8th’s, 16th’s, and sometimes 32nd’s, and use a number of cabinetmaker rules in pursuit of such.

However you gentlemen think in terms of thou’s and reach for your calipers and mic’s.

Thought I'd have a closer look.

IMG_20170529_171447.jpg


Hard to hold a caliper close to what you just measured and take a picture but:

Inside Dia. of undamaged area = +/- 11.44 mm

IMG_20170529_170213.jpg



Outside dia. of damaged area = +/- 13.62 mm
Average seal shaft wall thickness = +/- 1.58 mm (based on aver. of 6 measurements.)

Leaving inside good wall to outside = +/- 12.04 mm
damaged wall dimension

After machining seal shaft bore to +/-11.44 mm, this will leave approx. +/- 0.60 mm wall thickness at it’s weakest point. While I realize that there isn’t a lot of lateral stress from the throttle shaft, I doubt 0.60 mm is enough to survive surgery let alone make one confident in the long term performance of this carb without suffering a future failure. These are not made of tool steel.

Now, I do realize that this is the worst of the damaged area at the top and know the seal does not fill the entire cavity depth bottom to top, so the suggestions received may yet work and I’m not throwing in the towel yet. Just posting more accurate measurements in case that may matter and prompt more suggestions.

Also, these are my shade tree mechanic measurements and a machinist would obviously be able to get much more accurate measurements. I will still run this by Terry and get his professional opinion, as well as see how he’s getting on with my Franken Carbs.

Worse comes to worse I guess, carbs do come up for sale here from time to time. I saw another set of 78/79 BS38’s for sale here the other day for $150. Maybe they'd be better represented with fuller disclosure than my last pair, but with shipping and exchange rate, that's about $270 - $280 CDA to my door.

I've heard of being house poor before, but carb poor is a new one to me. LOL

Two lessons learned for the second time when purchasing used motorcycle parts on the internet, no matter the source:
  1. more pics please
  2. Caveat Emptor certainly applies
Once again gentlemen, thank you for your help here now, as well as for all those times you helped in the past without even knowing.

I’ll keep you posted.
 
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You boys sure like to throw money at solutions. What is a good machinist's time worth $100 - 150 pr. hr. ?
Throw this on it and be done for less than $75.

Huh, you are so right WER, IF I were living in the States that would be an awesome deal.

However, with shipping and exchange rates to Canada, that is over $100 to my door, not a big dollar difference for sure.
But that will (hopefully) pay for my machinists time, give some work to a vintage bike mechanic/machinist in my town, (not that he needs it I guess) and help support a local to me small business. Maybe without costing me any more, if it can even be done. If so, everybody wins.

As well that is a 77 carb body, I don't know if it would match up with a 78/79 sister left. It may very well, but don't know.

Just had a look at all the pics in that ad. Looks like whoever buys it is also going to have to dig out their easy outs, but I give the vendor credit for disclosing the issue.
 
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Head of Carburetor Surgery, Terry Wolfe thinks he can do it….. it's in his hands…...now I’ll pace the waiting room floor.
 
Hey robinc, "carb poor" seems to be a global epidemic affecting BS38's now.. who'd a thunk it ? Been out camping seeing some of your posts when a Tmobil equipped satellite flew over. Your "carb surgery" pics were cool ! BS38's are Great ! Cheering for ya ! -RT
 
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