I started on by removing dirt from the harness by first using a water based spray degreaser. Then I wiped everything with rubbing alcohol using a rag or Q-tips in the hard to get areas. Then I systematically replaced terminals, insulators, and connectors as needed. All new components came from Vintage Connections and are very close to the originals.
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One Dakota.... XS1 fix, restore labor of love SoDak
- Thread starter gggGary
- Start date
Some of the terminals were dirty, but were still firmly crimped, so I just cleaned them up and slipped a new insulator on. Most of the time, I had to use a bit of silicone spray to help me maneuver the insulator over the existing terminal.
If you're interested, zinc plating the original hardware is a lot easier to do than most people think. I'm doing the same on a BSA Victor I'm restoring. Let me know if you're interested in going that route and I'll give you some links to read up on it.
This is all rusted hardware from 1968. Looks new again and I'll wager I saved a fair bit of money this way. Just the two axles would have been 75 to a hundred bucks.
You really should start your own build thread for this. Bad form to clutter up someones else's tread with something that should be in it's own thread.
Yeah i was all in favor and still am of Sodaks continued journey here.
Cough I may have been the one to suggest it.
Cough I may have been the one to suggest it.
I've noticed a few parts on this bike that differ from what is specified in the parts schematics and on my other XS1. One is the 20 amp fuse holder. This one is from a mid to late 60s YDS or YM. I know that it may have been swapped out by someone at some point, but I also think that for these early bikes Yamaha may have been using up parts they had on the shelf.
Yes i would expect find things like that as yamaha waited for new parts orders to arrive. Yomama always has done parts bin engineering and I think that's a good thing
This is the kind of stuff that makes my brain excited.
Any pro tips in getting the last wrap of tape to stay down semipermanently? Mine always peels up
Sorry I'll sit down and shut up now.
Start with a thoroughly clean surface using an appropriate cleaner. Next, use quality electrical tape. The cheap stuff doesn't always have great adhesion. My choice is the Scotch 33+ which is a bit more expensive, but IMHO worth it for jobs like this.
I got one....Any pro tips in getting the last wrap of tape to stay down semipermanently? Mine always peels up
That electrical tape stretches as you pull it off the roll. That's OK as you go along, but the stretch at the end is what causes it to shrink and pull loose.
When I get down to the last two or three wraps, I'll walk away from it for 30 min or an hour or so. Give the tape time to shrink back to it's natural state after being pulled off the roll, then slowly, without stretching it, make the final two wraps.
Mostly it's tits for me but I am a young 66
Awesome NP2650 and Jim, that’s the kind of sage advice I’m looking for. I always stretched the last bit figuring it would bind on itself better but when ya think about it…less is more.
Also walking away should be my second to last step always…would saved me a lot of sheared bolts and stripped screws.
On tape staying put, play a heat shrink heat gun over it, helps the adhesive bond.
Finally got DMV paperwork sorted and new CA title is in the works. Now I can start to dig in. Engine came out of the frame, maybe for the first time in 55 years. Going to do a top end check and refresh.
Frame and associated parts are going to the sandblast shop next week, then will get a new coat of gloss black paint.
Frame and associated parts are going to the sandblast shop next week, then will get a new coat of gloss black paint.
