Man I'd be pissed at the jerk that sold you that thing with a jacked up title like that!
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One Dakota.... XS1 fix, restore labor of love SoDak
- Thread starter gggGary
- Start date
Pulled the top end apart this afternoon. First sign of trouble was that the right front corner of the cylinder head cover didn't want to come apart. All other corners lifted up without a lot of persuasion. Took me about a hour to carefully break that corner free (I did check several times to make sure I hadn't forgot to remove a bolt). Once free the culprit was exposed. Seems like moisture got down into the passageway for one of the head studs. It fused itself to the inside of the alignment dowel.
Once I had the head off, that stud was clearly in bad shape. Found a NOS replacement on Ebay. I'm just hoping the old one comes out without a real fight. I've cleaned the base up some a will be adding Kroil to the area regularly for the next day or so.
Also found that the cam chain has been rubbing on the upper corner of the lower chain guide. Not sure if that is from a loose cam chain, or the geometry of the chain path in that area.
Heat the base of the stud up "real good" with a propane torch. They use some serious thread locker on those, at least on the later years.
Pistons look good?
Pistons look good?
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Pistons and cylinder walls look decent, but haven't had a chance to mic them yet. I'd like to remove the troublesome needle bearings in the small end of the connecting rods. I know that Yamaha deleted the needle bearings at about serial number 3200. Question is, when they deleted the needle bearings did they use a different piston with a larger diameter wrist pin to fit the existing connecting rods, or did they use a different connecting rod with a smaller diameter small end to fit the existing piston/wrist pin set up?
+1 on that. Although my heat gun gets plenty hot enough... might try that before the big blue gun.
They changed the conn rod when they deleted the needles. Not sure about the piston hole. Look in Tech... top of page. @650Skull 's excellent "differences" thread.
I looked in that thread several times; I knew there was con rod information in there somewhere, but I just couldn't find it. Just looked again and sure as shinola, it's in there. I must be blind sometimes. I suppose I could try to find a later crank and rod setup, but really wasn't planning on splitting the case. Maybe the needle bearings will just stay.
What do you plan on using to extract that stud? Do you have a tool or you just gonna try a double nut. Although I guess if it’s a change out a pipe wrench would also work…
You could even weld some sort of lever to it.... since it's trashed anyway.
Got the problem stud removed. It took a couple of cycles of getting it hot then letting it cool before it popped loose. Luckily, the moisture didn't penetrate into the threads in the case - they look fine.
You might run a tap on those stud threads.
Removed the upper cam chain guide as it was apparent that the black plastic material was separated from the aluminum frame. In the photo, a NOS early "-00" guide is on the left, the guide I removed in the center, and a later "-01" guide on the right. The removed guide is interesting in that it doesn't match what I expected for a "-00" guide. It is the same size and is flat (i.e., no arch from end to end), but has raised ridges on the sides like the later "-01" guide.
I did chase the threads in the case with a tap.
Some pretty deep grooves and pitting in the brake lining of the rear hub assembly. Any opinions on this? Just clean it up best I can and go with it, or try to find a replacement?
You said "brake lining" but I assume you mean the drum?
I'd clean it up best I could and see what it looks like then.
Put some pics back up and lets see it cleaned up best you can?
Did you take the wheel apart? if so I might find a lathe to give it a skim cut,
but it's thin.
but it's thin.
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At 55 Y/O if it functions then clean it up go with it.
Here's the rear hub and brake drum cleaned up. Those grooves are pretty deep. It's apart and could be turned on a lathe, but there likely wouldn't be anything left by the time those grooves cleaned up. I guess since it's the rear brake, maybe it'll be good enough. I looked at the hub/drum from the parts bike I have and it's even worse. Unless someone out there has an excess hub in decent condition.
Maybe a dumb question but would there be any way to sleeve/line it?
