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One Dakota.... XS1 fix, restore labor of love SoDak
- Thread starter gggGary
- Start date
Nice. I wonder if the anyone here in the US that does that?
http://www.vintagebrake.com/contact.htm
I found this familiar name on the web. He could probably give you some info.
I found this familiar name on the web. He could probably give you some info.
Does the hub have to be early?
Are there noticeable differences?
Are there noticeable differences?
According to the parts manual the #’s on the rear hub were the same through ‘73
gggGary to the rescue! He's sending me another hub in decent condition. I can't say enough about the people on this forum. Help, encouragement, and passing along needed parts is just routine with you folks.
I was originally planning on doing just a top end refresh on the engine, but for a couple of reasons I may split the lower cases. I've read the thread in the Tech section on splitting the cases, which deals mainly with physically getting them apart. I've never done it on a 650 before, so are there any pitfalls or surprises like springs that come flying out, etc.? Any tips would be great.
Nothing goes flying. There’s nothing really in there but the trans and crank. Any specific reason you need to split those cases?
He has a good plan that would require the cases split.
Finding all the bolts, having a good place to get it securely positioned while upside down.
Finding all the bolts, having a good place to get it securely positioned while upside down.
+1 on making sure you got all the fasteners. A holder/build stand can be made pretty simple. I used a 4X4 post, cut to about a 1-1/2' long and drilled 4 holes for the cylinder head studs. Built the entire bottom end with it.
I'm contemplating replacing the crank and connecting rods with a set from a later XS1 that doesn't have the needle bearings at the small end of the rods. A bit torn between keeping this bike as original as possible and having a more reliable engine.
Found an issue after splitting the cases. Looks like the kick starter boss in the case has taken some abuse. That's a steel piece embedded in the aluminium of the case. It has been beaten back and mushroomed up, so that the top sits higher than the rest of the area. A complete fix is unlikely, but I'm wondering if I should grind it down flat? Also wonder what is causing that damage to happen. Any thoughts?
Attachments
That's odd. It looks like it's been repaired by some kind of metal overlay and it's failing, coming away in pieces, leaving the roughened parent metal behind. I am familiar with many reclamation methods but that's a new one on me. It's like it's been prepared and thermal sprayed then remachined. The picture could be highly misleading, but that is how it looks from here.
Most of what you're seeing is casting flaws... where the steel insert didn't get quiet hot enough on the preheat and the aluminum didn't take as well as it should. All XS case castings have 'em and they don't hurt a thing. Carry on....
The bearing surface on the other hand, has seen a bit of wear (red circle). I would clean it up with a scotchbrite on a die grinder. Don't remove the scratches... just smooth 'em over, if that makes sense.
After that, you might have to re-shim the kicker shaft... but that's easily done.
The bearing surface on the other hand, has seen a bit of wear (red circle). I would clean it up with a scotchbrite on a die grinder. Don't remove the scratches... just smooth 'em over, if that makes sense.
After that, you might have to re-shim the kicker shaft... but that's easily done.
PS.... when doing closeups like those, an arrow drawn in would be very helpful for us to orient ourselves on the same page. Up, down, in, out...
Thanks Jim. Good advice the circles and arrows.
You made me look, random motors from the SOIR. I think one is a 70 case. That 70 kick start is an early production only wonder, the parts count was reduced and gear ratio changed later on.
I know somebody that has one…
Looks like they all took some abuse. Interesting that the damage isn't on the down stroke side that stops the kick axle when you rotate it downwards to start the bike, but on the recoil side where the kick crank rotates back to the upright position. The recoil spring must be pretty heavy. I'm going to do what Jim suggests, plus going grind down the top of the mushroomed area so it is even with the rest of the area.
