Very nice job on those bushings! 
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One Mans Junk.... '72 CS5E (RD200) Build.
- Thread starter Jim
- Start date
Not to beat a dead horse, but bikes that use clevis mount forks are not that uncommon, and there has to be some good, reasonably-priced new ones out there. I only say this because it seems to me to be a fundamental visible alteration that you propose to do your swingarm, on top of the added labor.
A Google of "quality clevis style forks" yielded the above "popular products" image. Don't know what fits and what's good, but worth a look.
Thanks Bob!Very nice job on those bushings!
I'll take a look. Modding the swingarm isn't my first choice if I can find a good set with the fork on the bottom.
Cheers.
Sparkyduc
XS650 Addict
Icon makes a set but they’re pricey since their prices increased. I got a set for my CL450 before they did
Note to self...
Shocks are 12.75" hole center to hole center.
Eyes on the swingarm are 1.25" up from center of axle plate.
Axle plates are 8-3/16" apart.
Shocks are 12.75" hole center to hole center.
Eyes on the swingarm are 1.25" up from center of axle plate.
Axle plates are 8-3/16" apart.
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My Rd200 still has the original shocks, nothing to write home about haha.
They work well on a smooth road riding in a straight line…
They work well on a smooth road riding in a straight line…
Well, I dood it...
Budget build and all that. The rubber in the bushings that make up the "eyes" of the swingarm are shot. They're still available for about 30-40 bucks. Decided to cut 'em off and go with the fork (clevis) style mounts.
Went through my scrounge and came up with some rectangular tubing that looked promising. Cut a piece off, drilled 2 holes for the shocks and split it into two mounts (saddles).
I'm shooting for what Yamaha does on other bikes, so I welded a 1/4" block on the inside side and drilled through it.
I'll tap the hole for a 10mm bolt, just like the factory does. Right now the holes are 5/16" because I have a piece of scrap rod that size to help with alignment.
And the point of no return....
While I was doing that, noticed the left axle plate is bent...
Took a little creative jiggerin' with Big Red...
Much better.
Filled in the half moon cutouts, marked and cut the plates for the saddles.
Lined everything up and tacked the saddles in place.
And things just went south from here. Up to now I was using the TIG welder. My MIG welder is still almost new. Prolly doesn't have more than 30 min run time since I bought it 2 or 3 yrs ago. Decided to use it instead 'cause it's still a new toy. Never dawned on ol' stupid here that 30 min run time in the last few years also means there's about 30 min "operator" time in that period.
Anyway.. couldn't get the gas cup down 'tween the saddle and the tubes. So, wound up with pops and splatters... just a general fucking mess. Finally gave up and started piling welds on top of each other until I got some semblance of penetration. It's ugly.
Then I ground away my sins...
Get it all cleaned up.. a little paint, it'll look like a million bucks.
Budget build and all that. The rubber in the bushings that make up the "eyes" of the swingarm are shot. They're still available for about 30-40 bucks. Decided to cut 'em off and go with the fork (clevis) style mounts.
Went through my scrounge and came up with some rectangular tubing that looked promising. Cut a piece off, drilled 2 holes for the shocks and split it into two mounts (saddles).
I'm shooting for what Yamaha does on other bikes, so I welded a 1/4" block on the inside side and drilled through it.
I'll tap the hole for a 10mm bolt, just like the factory does. Right now the holes are 5/16" because I have a piece of scrap rod that size to help with alignment.
And the point of no return....
While I was doing that, noticed the left axle plate is bent...
Took a little creative jiggerin' with Big Red...
Much better.
Filled in the half moon cutouts, marked and cut the plates for the saddles.
Lined everything up and tacked the saddles in place.
And things just went south from here. Up to now I was using the TIG welder. My MIG welder is still almost new. Prolly doesn't have more than 30 min run time since I bought it 2 or 3 yrs ago. Decided to use it instead 'cause it's still a new toy. Never dawned on ol' stupid here that 30 min run time in the last few years also means there's about 30 min "operator" time in that period.
Anyway.. couldn't get the gas cup down 'tween the saddle and the tubes. So, wound up with pops and splatters... just a general fucking mess. Finally gave up and started piling welds on top of each other until I got some semblance of penetration. It's ugly.
Then I ground away my sins...
Get it all cleaned up.. a little paint, it'll look like a million bucks.
My welding skills have greatly improved my grinding work. (lots of practice) ;^)
Nice work Jim! Sows ear, silk purse....
Nice work Jim! Sows ear, silk purse....
Jus' got back from a trip up north... package waiting....
Guy on Marketplace was parting out an old 'zuki 2 stroke 185 twin. Research says these are almost exactly the same VM-20 carbs the baby RD uses. Decided to roll the dice and offered $50 for the pair, delivered.
They're filthy, but by the looks, rebuildable... no corrosion and no PO butchery. He threw in the slides, cables and splitter. I think I won this round.
Guy on Marketplace was parting out an old 'zuki 2 stroke 185 twin. Research says these are almost exactly the same VM-20 carbs the baby RD uses. Decided to roll the dice and offered $50 for the pair, delivered.
They're filthy, but by the looks, rebuildable... no corrosion and no PO butchery. He threw in the slides, cables and splitter. I think I won this round.
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I’ll be interested to see those all cleaned up! 
You have to take them down to the river to wash em?
Hopefully they will come up ok. Change the glass beads over for baking soda in your blaster and you are away. Although you may need a 50/50 mix of beads and soda for those ones.
I have trouble cutting the bowl gaskets and got a couple from Yambits in the UK for the DT last time.
I have trouble cutting the bowl gaskets and got a couple from Yambits in the UK for the DT last time.
A day or two in the carb can, then on to the Harbor Freight soda gun.
Yes there is. Don't know what it is... but the stuff really works.
Out of the can after a day.
Then on to soda blasting...
And finally a bit of work with wire wheels.
Dunked the floats in hot water, no leaks, so I cleaned 'em up.
All the jets are gummed up. They're soaking in the parts washer right now. Not even sure if they're the right jets for the baby RD, but I'll clean 'em up just in case. All the passageways in the carb body's and float bowl's are now clear.
I'll add too that these carbs apparently have never been opened up... no signs whatsoever of a wrench or screwdriver touching anything inside or out.
Definitely winning this round.
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HooWee! Transformation of the year!
Good job on those carbs. You got a decent set for tiny money considering how few sets are left out there and the cables to boot.
I had to heli-coil all 16 float bowl screws on my Goldwing carbs due to all of them being stripped out by previous owners. Then I wound up not using them.
I had to heli-coil all 16 float bowl screws on my Goldwing carbs due to all of them being stripped out by previous owners. Then I wound up not using them.
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Thanks guys!!
Need a little scale for perspective? These carbs are really really small.
Sharpie and utility knife...
Yeah, that’s a lot smaller than I was imagining.
