Opening engine, what to do?

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crashcourse

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I've been riding my bike for the laat seven years without having to do any major repairs, but at my last oil change I noticed small chunks of plastic in the oil. So I figure its time to replace the cam chain guide. While I'm at it, I'm going to fix the leaking gaskets and the clutch pushrod seal, and check the sump filter. I was also considering lapping the valves, and I wondered if there is anything else I should do while I have the engine open?

I am looking for basic repairs and maintenance; I don't have the budget right now for any performance mods.
 
You usually replace the cam chain too. Also, valve guide seals. The originals are 30+ years old so it's foolish not to replace them while you're in there. You'll have the valves apart anyway for lapping. Rings may need replacing as well. Measure the end gaps but 9 times out of 10, they're too big which means new rings. All in all, a quickie topend job like this will cost you around $200, if you do all the work yourself.
 
5T is correct, it's cheap, nothing more likable than a fresh engine to run in and ride baby ride, depending on the wear in the jugs, you might end up 0.25 or 0.50 over size. There is great personal satisfaction in re building your top end, taking her for a first ride and breaking her in......
 
I do have a manual, and I have always done my own work. The engine only has about 20k miles - is it still likely that the cam chain and rings will need replacement?

Is that $200 for parts? What about tools? I imagine I'll need some, but should I spring for the specialized tools, or can I make do with home versions?
 
Dunno about the parts costing, tools, you will need a torque wrench, good set of metric tube sockets, openenders, ring spanners, circlip pliers and time to do the work
 
The $200 is pretty much just parts. That should cover a new front cam chain guide, cam chain, rings, and a gasket set. For a valve spring compressor, the C-clamp style works best. You can rig up your own with a big old C-clamp but real ones are quite cheap from eBay, less than $20. Mike's sells pretty much the same one for over 3 times as much (yes, they're crooks, lol) .....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Valve-Sprin...6b4413b618b577092d73a8&pid=100505&rk=1&rkt=1&

A cam chain riveting tool is also nice to have. Again, eBay is the place for them, about 1/4 of the cost as the same tool from Mike's .....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Chain-C...214062?hash=item1eb399b5ae:g:714AAOSwbYZXc3DM
 
Most Auto Parts stores (Advanced Auto, Auto Zone..etc) offer tool loaning programs. You have to pay for the tool up front but they refund 100% of the money when you return it. I tried a cheap hand held Harbor Freight valve spring compressor and only pissed myself off as it kept popping off. I ended up "borrowing" an auto style compressor tool from Advanced Auto and had it returned within about 2 hours after i lapped my valves. Attached is the style I used with great success.

spring compressor.jpg
 
Last edited:
retiredgentleman said:
Do not buy a ring compressor as you won't need one.
A popsicle stick is all that I used to install rings. The pistons, with new rings, are installed from the bottom of the cylinders, which have a chamfer to ease the ring's installation.
Click to expand...

That's how you do it, may I add? Make sure ring marks are up, orientation in the bore is correct, and be bloody careful of the oil control rings as you go up the chamfer and enter the bore...lubricant with engine oil prior to installation

I missed the valve compression tool, but I use a socket (one that is the same O/D as the spring retailer) and hammer, with a block of wood under the valves, a sharp whack onto the socket the coletts will pop out. You will need to check valve guides for wear before lapping.....that brings on a further topic...like Willis said get a reasonable spring compression tool for installation. A check I do when the valves are back in, is put plugs in the head, invert, make sure it's level, fill with fuel as far as you can. What your looking for is leaks, which will show up as bubbles coming from the offending valve. You would be surprised the amount of leaks I've found this way, the smallest crud, human hair....it will show up....

5twins said:
A cam chain riveting tool is also nice to have. Again, eBay is the place for them, about 1/4 of the cost as the same tool from Mike's .....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Chain-C...214062?hash=item1eb399b5ae:g:714AAOSwbYZXc3DM
Click to expand...

Hey 5T, that's a bit hi tech, I just cut mine off, then with the new one, held the flat of the hammer on the backside, and pienned the pins over with another small hammer...you wouldn't buy that here in AU for that price.....otherwise I would :)
 
All good information. Getting tools from ebay really helps the budget. Time for a shopping spree. Once I get the engine open I'll do a careful inspection of everything and order parts.
 
What is the difference between the standard overhaul gasket set and the premium gasket set? Seems like the standard set should be just fine, right?

Any recommendations on which cam chain from Mikes is best? Edit: I just checked, and it turns out only one of the chains fits my year.
 
Last edited:
crashcourse said:
What is the difference between the standard overhaul gasket set and the premium gasket set? Seems like the standard set should be just fine, right?

Any recommendations on which cam chain from Mikes is best? Edit: I just checked, and it turns out only one of the chains fits my year.
Click to expand...

I purchased the standard casket set, it was fine....the more expensive set might have a neater fit without excess gasket on the interface of the cases / jugs. I just trimmed mine after a few hours of running....you can see a little bit i missed (green) in the picture

Everyday rider.jpg




crashcourse said:
Are valve guide seals the same as these valve stem seals?
Click to expand...

Correct, be real careful when installing the valve guide seals, make sure the spring is seated in the rubber groove, and don't pop off when you push the seal over the head of the valve.
 
Valve guide seals are different from valve stem seals. Valve guid seals goes on the giude and is a oring, them the giude is pressed into the head. Valve stem seals look like a umbrella with a little spring around it to hold it to the groove on the valve, and the groove on the guide. The valve stem seal is visable through the valve springs.
 

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