Original Starter Button Question..

[5twins]

The original left hand switch had a ground wire running into the headlight bucket and connecting to the ground wires in there that ran back to the main frame. It passed that ground into the bars and over to the right switch. That's how the right switch originally got it's ground. If your new left switch is expecting to get it's ground from the handlebars, that won't happen unless you specifically ground them or the right switch assembly.

 

[XS1204]

The original left hand switch had a ground wire running into the headlight bucket and connecting to the ground wires in there that ran back to the main frame. It passed that ground into the bars and over to the right switch. That's how the right switch originally got it's ground. If your new left switch is expecting to get it's ground from the handlebars, that won't happen unless you specifically ground them or the right switch assembly.

It is not, it is grounded directly off the battery earth. Thanks!

 

[XS1204]

One more question

Ok, I am running Hugh’s CDI kit. Comes with a new ignition coil and connections but I AM using the stock starter button switch with the engine run/off rocker switch.

My current problem is I am still getting spark even on the “OFF” position.

I noticed that with the ignition key on I get 12v power to the original red/white wires that ran to the coils. When I move the RH switch to the off position the 12v power goes away, I’d assume grounding or something the red white wire out.

The new CDI kit has two connection points, a ground and power.

Is it advised to run one of the original red/white wires to the new coil power wire so that I can safely use my original off switch?

See pics below.

Positive multimeter lead in one of the two red/white wires from the original coils. Ignition key on, engine in the “run” position it gets 12v.

The next pic the the switch is in the “off” position and the 12v turns off. This is all with the ignition key on.

I was going to run one of the red/white wires to the new power connection on the ignition coil with a fuse which should make my original run/off switch work as stock.

Thoughts?

 

[5twins]

The "kill" switch doesn't ground out the R/W wires, it simply disconnects them from one another. You have one R/W wire running into the kill switch from the ignition switch, then another running out to the coil. The kill switch makes or breaks the connection between the two.

 

[XS1204]

The "kill" switch doesn't ground out the R/W wires, it simply disconnects them from one another. You have one R/W wire running into the kill switch from the ignition switch, then another running out to the coil. The kill switch makes or breaks the connection between the two.

Ok thanks for clarifying this. So is it ok then to run one of the R/W wires to my new ignition coil power wire to disconnect power from it when I turn the switch to “off”?

Thanks again!

 

[jpdevol]

I don't have a HHB CDI system, nor the instructions for it, but most CDI systems get their power from their own source coil that's part of the stator - so it wouldn't need (nor want) an external power source. The kill switch on such systems usually switch to ground to kill the ignition. Consult HHB instructions.

 

[XS1204]

My stop switch is brown and red/white. Not two red/white wires.

If I put one of the wire harness red/white wires to the coil I don’t get spark in the run position. But if I turn it to off it sparks. When it’s in the run position it is getting 12v, off it zero’s out.

So how in the heck can I wire this to my coil to use my kill switch!?

Clearly I need a 12+ connection but this is putting me through a loop hole!

Thanks

 

[XS1204]

EDIT:

Got it figured out. I had my power wire from the CDI relay to constant switched power.

Plugged it into my red/white switched off wire and all good now

 

[jpdevol]

from the CDI relay

Ah....I didn't know there was a relay in the install kit. So I reckon it's using the stock kill switch to ground the CDI and kill spark?

 

[XS1204]

Ah....I didn't know there was a relay in the install kit. So I reckon it's using the stock kill switch to ground the CDI and kill spark?

Yes, there is a relay in the kit if you go the route of electric start.

I asked Hugh as well about this and he just said to use a good switched 12v+ for the ignition system.

There is a single white wire coming from the relay which is the power wire. I had it plugged into a brown harness wire which always got 12v at ignition on. Regardless of what the kill switch was set to.

So I undid that and plugged that white relay wire into the originals red/white ignition wires on the stock harness which gives or takes 12v with the kill switch

 

[XS1204]

I’m having an odd issue I didn’t realize until now. I went away on a trip for 3 weeks. Came back and the bike was totally dead.

I did some tests and I have battery voltage at the red wire on the ignition switch even in the off position.

This red wire runs from the ignition switch to the cloth covered red wire from the starter relay. If I u plug it the voltage clearly cuts off. But then the key switch doesn’t work at all.

Is this normal? I would assume not…I must have something not right here.

 

[jpdevol]

Normal......battery power goes from the wires you describe to the key switch through the main 20A fuse. Powered all the time unless the battery is disconnected or fuse pulled.

 

[5twins]

Yes, totally normal. The red wire is power from the battery to the switch. Turn it on and that power flows through the switch and goes out to the rest of the bike on the brown and blue wires.

 

[XS1204]

Thank you both. Hallelujah lol still gotta figure out why it was totally dead but this is good news. Cheers

 

[jpdevol]

Could be stray draw even with key off. Charge battery first. If there are no accessories wired ahead of the switch, check for draw - key off - by removing the negative cable terminal from the battery, set a multimeter to milliamps and place the probes between the disconnected cable and negative battery post: should be near zero

 

[XS1204]

good deal mate. I'll give this a test and see what I come across. I do have quite a bit of things wired up to the battery so it could be an underlying cause from a component doing a stray draw.