Painting Tins. No really...

What color should these tins be?

  • Candy green and white a la XS1

    Votes: 15 28.8%
  • Candy gold and white a la XS1

    Votes: 20 38.5%
  • Candy red and white a la XS2

    Votes: 17 32.7%

  • Total voters
    52
Better?


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Jim, what do you do to keep the dust down when spraying? Do you put water on the floor? I am just thinking about repainting my bike this Summer. Dust was an issue for me last time.

Thank you.
 
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Had too resand all the tins for my 71 Kawasaki F6 because of a bad reaction to some self-etching primer over the body work. Sanded off all the bad primer. Now I will reprime with epoxy primer again. Then spot puddly and sand for final color coat and clear.
 

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Had too resand all the tins for my 71 Kawasaki F6 because of a bad reaction to some self-etching primer over the body work. Sanded off all the bad primer. Now I will reprime with epoxy primer again. Then spot puddly and sand for final color coat and clear.
You don't need self etch primer with epoxy. My way of doing it is strip, epoxy 2-3 coats. Let it sit overnight then rough up the spots that need filler with 80 grit by hand, but try not to hit bare metal, if you do it's no big deal, just go ahead and do your filler work. When you're happy with the fill work, lightly sand entire part and apply 2 more coats of epoxy, this will seal the filler from moisture. After epoxy dries, sand parts with 180 and prime with 2k primer, block, prime repeat until happy. Good luck.
 
Jim, what do you do to keep the dust down when spraying? Do you put water on the floor? I am just thinking about repainting my bike this Summer. Dust was an issue for me last time.

Thank you.
Water on the floor would be ideal Paul, but no, I don't. I turn my home made ventilation system on high then use a blow gun to dust off the entire room and let the fan take it all outside. Takes a bit of work doing it multiple times, but it works pretty good.
 
Had too resand all the tins for my 71 Kawasaki F6 because of a bad reaction to some self-etching primer over the body work. Sanded off all the bad primer. Now I will reprime with epoxy primer again. Then spot puddly and sand for final color coat and clear.
You don't need self etch primer with epoxy. My way of doing it is strip, epoxy 2-3 coats. Let it sit overnight then rough up the spots that need filler with 80 grit by hand, but try not to hit bare metal, if you do it's no big deal, just go ahead and do your filler work. When you're happy with the fill work, lightly sand entire part and apply 2 more coats of epoxy, this will seal the filler from moisture. After epoxy dries, sand parts with 180 and prime with 2k primer, block, prime repeat until happy. Good luck.
I don't use 'em either. Unless you have a way to closely control the humidity, they're a crapshoot.
I do it pretty much the same way as 46 describes.
 
You don't need self etch primer with epoxy. My way of doing it is strip, epoxy 2-3 coats. Let it sit overnight then rough up the spots that need filler with 80 grit by hand, but try not to hit bare metal, if you do it's no big deal, just go ahead and do your filler work. When you're happy with the fill work, lightly sand entire part and apply 2 more coats of epoxy, this will seal the filler from moisture. After epoxy dries, sand parts with 180 and prime with 2k primer, block, prime repeat until happy. Good luck.
I was trying to cover the bare steel until I could do the final paint. I use my buddy’s booth some time it takes awhile. This time I used Dry Coat. Hoping to prim this weekend with epoxy.
Thanks for the info and help
 
XS-1 tank. The filler neck has been bashed down about 1/4"... 1/2". Looks like it'd been dropped dead on the cap at one time.....


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fabbed up a tool to fit inside the filler....


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... fitted it to my homemade slide hammer....



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... and started tappin'.



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Didn't take as much effort as I thought it would. Took about 5min and it pulled out nicely. Compared it to an undamaged one in the basement and it's just about right.


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There's a depression fore and aft of it that would be much more trouble than they are worth to work out, so I'll just fill them in with J B Weld. Reason being.... it's fuel proof, so I won't have to worry about it lifting if some fuel works it's way into a scratch down the road. 'Sides... it works just about as good as filler. Well... maybe a tad harder to sand, but no more than I need, it won't be a problem.
 
Looks great! Only thing I see is a gap between the cap and tank. I looked at a few of mine and there is no real gap. Not a big deal as the tank is saved.View attachment 214449
Yeah, I'll just fill all that in with the J B Weld. When it's done, it'll all be flush with no gap.
 
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