Patience rework.

[Wingedwheel]

Since the white stuff is flying it’s time to hunker down and take care of a few things I wanted to do to Patience. Missing the riding season with my shoulder injury didn’t help with motivation but I’m ready to move forward with a list of things I want/need to do. Last ride with this bike a buddy mentioned I was getting a little smoke out the right side exhaust. I kinda suspect a valve seal but I’m gonna go in and take a look. Last time I was in the top-end was during Covid. I had to replace an exhaust valve on the RH side so I want to go in and see how that’s looking. During this time getting parts was difficult at most and the only vendor with one was Mike’s and all they had in stock were SS. I had heard somewhere that if you replaced a valve with SS you also needed to replace the guide with a bronze? Anyone know anything about that?

 

[Wingedwheel]

I also want to do some other things that weren’t done. New wheel bearings, some rubber bits replacements on the gauges and I ordered a chain guide from GLJ because mine was really worn from the PO not keeping the chain adjusted. I have one guage damper but everyone either doesn’t carry them or they are OOS. I found a replacement OEM on Ebay(pricey) but if the ones on the bike lasted 49 yrs I should be good. Now I need a new Airbox crossover boot. Those are available but cost as much to ship as the price on the item. I’ll wait until I need a few more things.

 

[WideAWAKE]

Since the white stuff is flying it’s time to hunker down and take care of a few things I wanted to do to Patience. Missing the riding season with my shoulder injury didn’t help with motivation but I’m ready to move forward with a list of things I want/need to do. Last ride with this bike a buddy mentioned I was getting a little smoke out the right side exhaust. I kinda suspect a valve seal but I’m gonna go in and take a look. Last time I was in the top-end was during Covid. I had to replace an exhaust valve valve on the RH side so I want to go in and see how that’s looking. During this time getting parts was difficult at most and the only vendor with one was Mike’s and all they had in stock were SS. I had heard somewhere that if you replaced a valve with SS you also needed to replace the guide with a bronze? Anyone know anything about that? View attachment 340181

Is that a 2 piece valve?? Beyond my dislike of all things mikes - a 2 piece valve just doesn’t sit right with me.

Bronze guides would reduce the chance of ware.

Did you recut the valve seat when installing or just drop a new one in??

Easy enough at this point to swap to OEM (tried and true).

 

[Jim]

had heard somewhere that if you replaced a valve with SS you also needed to replace the guide with a bronze? Anyone know anything about that?

Yeah, manganese bronze is the current metal of choice with stainless valves. Maybe just me, but I'd use the bronze guides regardless of valve metal.
Bronze is much better than cast iron (original guides) at transferring heat. Not to mention less friction and wear...

 

[Wingedwheel]

Is that a 2 piece valve?? Beyond my dislike of all things mikes - a 2 piece valve just doesn’t sit right with me.

It’s a one piece. I didn’t recut the seat, just lapped it in. At the time with everything closed down and limited resources that was my only option.

 

[Wingedwheel]

Pulled the top end off today and thought things looked pretty good. The plugs were pretty identical but there was more carbon buildup on the right side which is the side that my buddy said was smoking. I’ll pull the valves and see how they look.

 

[Wingedwheel]

Before I get into it too heavy I went ahead and ordered a few things that included a new valve guide because I really have a feeling that’s part of it. The valve I replaced was slightly bent. I have no idea how it happened(PO) but I should have just replaced it when I was in there. The new valve fit so nice I figured it was fine but in hindsight My better judgement is shaking it’s head at me.

 

[Wingedwheel]

Pulled the valve out and I’m not convinced there’s an issue. No evidence of oil leakage or anything out of the ordinary. I tried the finger suction test and it was really strong, maybe a new valve seal, a re-lap and call her good? I normally keep a gasket set on hand and when I looked I had two marked XS2 but all I really need is the base and head gasket. I think I have two incomplete sets as well missing(you guessed it) base and head gasket.

 

[Jim]

I believe that even though they say XS2, they're for all years. At least that's how they were advertised. Hope so, I've got 2 unopened sets in the basement. Hate to find out I wasted my money....

 

[Wingedwheel]

I’m pretty sure they work for all years except 70/71. I believe the head gasket was different. On a good note I’m changing out the green base gasket!

 

[Wingedwheel]

Jim, take a look at your gasket sets. My head gasket was starting to rust on the metal ring. Cleaned it up with a little scotchbrite and sprayed it with Copper gasket spray then realized my tube of Yamabond is toast so that seemed a good place to stop and get ready to watch the Lions!

 

[Wingedwheel]

Went to Tractor Supply and picked up a tube of Permatex Motoseal Grey. I think it’s a little gooier than Yamabond so I used a tiny brush to spread it and after torquing I had a nice small squeeze out.

 

[Wingedwheel]

I should have named this the boring AF thread lol. With my hands in the motor it’s difficult to take pics but I managed to adjust the valves and button everything up. I used some mineral spirits and cleaned all the gunk off the engine and addressed the root causes of said gunk. I replaced the speedo drive seal because I couldn’t remember if I had (probably not) because of grime in that area and of course there’s no magic bullet for not having to clean the drive chain area. I warmed up a can of spray paint in the house and touched up the frame from the last time the engine went back in.

 

[Wingedwheel]

Motor back in the frame. I learned a trick that works well for me. I have the engine suspended from my hoist and the frame is on my Jack/lift. I roll the frame right up to the suspended engine and that allows me to dial the height in as I push the frame forward. No swinging engine hitting the frame.
I keep finding more things that need to be done and of course cleaning everything up while I’m working on it. The wheel bearings appeared to be factory although I was amazed at how nice the grease still was.

 

[Wingedwheel]

Things I notice while working on things. Front disc looked crappy so I cleaned that up. I always keep the stuff I replaced until the very end because it helps me keep track plus I’ve been bitten before because I threw away something I needed. while cleaning up I found a couple of these pins. Pretty sure they are from a cam chain. I just need to go through the carbs now and she will be ready for April!

 

[Kevin Werner]

My better judgement is shaking it’s head at me.

If you second guess yourself you never get anything done...

 

[Kevin Werner]

. I warmed up a can of spray paint in the house and touched up the frame from the last time the engine went back in.

I do have a small space heater in my garage. I leave it on the "low" setting. I just face it towards the bike and paint can, then hours later, shoot what I need. No worries if the cure is slow.

 

[WideAWAKE]

I do have a small space heater in my garage. I leave it on the "low" setting. I just face it towards the bike and paint can, then hours later, shoot what I need. No worries if the cure is slow.

Just stick it in the microwave for a few minutes… bada bing, bada boom!

 

[Kevin Werner]

bada bing, bada boom!

 

[Wingedwheel]

Procrastinated enough. I almost buggerd a butterfly screw the other day and pouted about it for at least 24 hrs. Got my head back in the game and both carbs stripped and being cleaned in the ultra-sonic. I have new screws and when I checked my stash there were 8 shaft seals in there. I must have anticipated doing this. Good thing as the old seals were hard. I worked on these carbs about 10 years ago and I can’t remember what I did. I did check and all my brass is correct so no issues there. This set of carbs always ran well so it was tempting to leave them alone.