Pma capacitor ignition help

trip

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Hey guys I was wondering if anybody could help me with a problem I am having with my pma , ignition, capacitor system! Pma is from tc bros so is the ignition system which is the standard ignition system they both are kits that came with regulator and coil . So I can run the bike with a battery it fires and runs good and has throttle response but when I run it with the capacitor it only fires on one side seems like and has no throttle response ! So it seems to me like the ignition or coil is not the right application for the pma system? The wire is bare bones with a kill on /run and a second switch for light so if any of you have any ideas please throw them my why I just don’t know what is going on ! Runs fine battery! Capacitor no spark on one side seems like
 

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Just for thinking out loud here
The machine runs fine when a battery is there.
But 0nly on One Cylinder without battery.

But usually the Alternator feeds the system as soon as i turns and runs ( Not knowing your wiring )
The alternator should for a typical installation give the same Voltage to the system as soon as it starts. Spinning

The difference is Battery versus Capacitor I would check the capacitor wiring and perhaps call the seller if not anyone else here on the forum has it.
Capacitors can leak current ( Or voltage ) in HiFi s at least
Dont know how to check these here
 
Just for thinking out loud here
The machine runs fine when a battery is there.
But 0nly on One Cylinder without battery.

But usually the Alternator feeds the system as soon as i turns and runs ( Not knowing your wiring )
The alternator should for a typical installation give the same Voltage to the system as soon as it starts. Spinning

The difference is Battery versus Capacitor I would check the capacitor wiring and perhaps call the seller if not anyone else here on the forum has it.
Capacitors can leak current ( Or voltage ) in HiFi s at least
Dont know how to check these here
The only way I can find is by de charging it and testing with a multimeter with a capacitive setting I can check it with a volts meter but it drops pretty fast the wiring is done just like it states in the diagram that comes with parts and I have checked and double check everything on it this is my second capacitor
 
The only way I can find is by de charging it and testing with a multimeter with a capacitive setting I can check it with a volts meter but it drops pretty fast the wiring is done just like it states in the diagram that comes with parts and I have checked and double check everything on it this is my second capacitor
Propably not the capacitor then
We can wait a while perhaps someone else can chime in I would suspect the dropping one cylinder being to low or to high Voltage entering
Any Voltmeter installed on the machine ? It could help.
 
Propably not the capacitor then
We can wait a while perhaps someone else can chime in I would suspect the dropping one cylinder being to low or to high Voltage entering
Any Voltmeter installed on the machine ? It could help.
I have charging I can kick it over and see it on the meter spike up it is definitely something going on with a part I imagine I am wondering if I have the wrong ignition for a pma ? It says on my specs for the ignition that it is standard,centrifugal under the spark advance
 
Why not just use a battery? Using a capacitor seems rather "Stone age" to me. A small battery would be a better choice IMHO, either lead/ acid or LiPoFe.
I just like how the capacitor looks and it is easy to hide but I am still wanting to know what the problem is
 
I have charging I can kick it over and see it on the meter spike up it is definitely something going on with a part I imagine I am wondering if I have the wrong ignition for a pma ? It says on my specs for the ignition that it is standard,centrifugal under the spark advance
Again thinking out loud Not knowing your system or wiring .

The alternator is a " creating " system if things work it should give 14..1 --14.5 V ish
Charging battery and power up the system
As would any other power crating setup as the stock regulated charging

These creating systems are subsystems that the ignition wont care about as long as it gets the physics
simplified said 14..1 --14.5 ish
The problem is when the ignition don't get it here possibly by a partial ground somewhere
or over charging

This is thinking in general terms I am not that good at PMA but I currently have PMA and Boyer Bransden
It seems to work better than stock Alternator since it has higher low rev Output getting stronger spark at low rev
 
I just like how the capacitor looks and it is easy to hide but I am still wanting to know what the problem is
The problem is it's stone age tech that was always iffy to begin with. There's a reason ALL manufacturers switched from cap to battery 40-50yrs ago.... 'cause it just works.
 
My suggestion is to contact TC Brothers and find out what capacitor they recommend to use with their PMA and ignition.
Some manufactures of electronic ignition systems recommend not to use capacitors.
 
Everything from what tc bros said is all compatible with the system I am running so now I will be checking parts first I will hook a battery back up and see what it is reading when running and go from there leaning towards a charging problem
 
So I found my issue my rectifier has failed the reverse bias test I am getting readings in both directions on both negative and positive leads just to update! The stator passed all its test with the multimeter it’s just crazy when you have all new parts and now the wiring is good to check your parts for problems I will be getting in touch with the manufacturer
 
Thinking out loud .. It is important the ground from ignition is good and connects with minus on capacitor
Not sure about capacitor functionality but with battery I would consider connect the ignition ground at the minus on battery
Possibly the same here .
 
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