PMA issues after welding on frame

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Needed to fix a cracked weld on my frame. Had my ground about 6 inches from it. Front end of the bike, where the kickstand sits.

Now, the bike wants to kill batteries immediately. I'm running a HHB PMA with reg/rec from him as well (I think?) didn't install it myself.

No continuity between the yellow wires coming off the stator, when cold.

Normal ish continuity between the green wire and yellow wires on the reg/rec, at least from what I seen. All within .1 of eachother. Right around 53 ohm

But I get open loop on the red wire/yellow wires when cold/warm

Is my stator pooched? Or my reg/rec?

It only charges at 9 volts right now. That's reading off the battery at idle and up to probably 3k rpm. Bike will run untill warm for about 3 mins then die, after that, I can kick it back over, but then as soon as I switch the headlight on, it dies.

Checked the continuity between the green and yellow wires on the reg/rec after running for a bit, and I think they were at about 11 ohms? All still within eachothers readings I believe.

Just not sure where to go from here. Think I'll pull the flywheel off and do more testing when I can.

It's not a battery issue as far as I know. I'm running a 1.2 amp 12v lead acid. Put a new one in too just to make sure. Charged properly.
But haven't had issues with it untill now. Going on 2 years since I rewired everything.

Any help would be greatly appreciated
 
MIG or TIG? no real knowledge but it tickles my mind TIG has higher pulse voltage.
diodes in the rectifier?, just a guess.
Still good magnetism?
Quite few have pooched TCI modules with welding.
Just mig. Fairly low voltage. But I did only disconnect the positive lead to the battery. Probably should have fully isolated it but idk if that would have made a difference .
Just wondering if, because the path of least resistance was kind of close to where the stator sits in the motor, thag maybe it got cooked? I'll have to pull it off to see this weekend
 
I remember reading electronics shall be disconnected when welding.
9 V Would not damage the battery.
I would hook up a Voltmeter se what is going on
I would guess the reg / regulator the regulator part is sensitive in fex Non PMA Regulators
Hook it up wrong and it is gone.
 
What's the saying. It's not the volts that kill it's the amps.

Welding should require at least 80 amps. Disconnecting the battery the bike is still going to complete a circuit through the welder.

All electrical components should b disconnected.

That's how I see it
 
I fried a regulator in a Geo Metro alternator while I was welding brackets for the Poorboy alternator conversion on a '86 GoldWing. The first regulator I ever replaced inside of an alternator, that came in handy a few more times. No brainer to replace a less than $20 regulator instead of the whole rebuilt alternator.
 
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