PMA wattage help

The charging current is depending on the voltage. And of the battery's charge state. With a well maintained battery, and correct charging voltage, the current will be within acceptable limits. If I had the choice between fitting an ammeter or a volt meter, it would be volt meter. Every time..

Yes Sir me to Voltmeter is the first.
But strictly speaking the charging current according to Ohms law is dependent of internal resistance and other characteristics
of the battery..
Furthermore In this case the design for the regulator is a full size battery ,, ( is it 14 ah ) with expected full size current
here battery 7 ah is used so the regulator is not designed to deliver half the charging current
at design Voltage As I see it.
Maybe the battery can cope with it And maybe the regulator is smart enough to adapt
But the designer most likely don't design for something else than " Normal " Spec 200 W
This can be the same problem as using car chargers on MC Battery
They can charge but at a to high current risking the battery
And we have the possibility of the starter draining to much Current
An ampere and voltmeter both would be found at ca $ 30 perhaps less.
And after that the battery physics are better known.
A short in the starting circuit draining the battery would be more easily found with more measurements.
But Voltage meter is the first .. But if a quick solution is optimum the current can help at not so high Cost
Feel free correct me if i am wrong i don't have the experience with these systems
 
When they say "drop a leg" in the ad they simply mean you are hooking up two single phase outlet wires instead of three from a three phase, they do not mean disconnecting a powered lead from a 3 phase alternator. In this single phase input configuration you certainly will lose 33% of the reg/rec output simply because it is missing 33% from the input while retaining the same current capacity through the two remaining legs. It is not an instruction of how to modify the reg/rec to produce less power, although I suppose you could do it as long as you put the live lead somewhere safe so it doesn't ground out. This is irrelevant however, since a properly working regulator with the capacity to handle the alternator output should easily maintain the proper output the bike requires without having to resort to jury rigging it. It will either shunt excess power to ground, or turn off the output to the system in a series regulator. Even a cooler running shunt regulator does the stator no favours though, since it is still running at 100% output at all times.

Been doing some reading ..and at many points this seems right.
We have an over dimensioned power supply in relation to the system ( Battery and Wiring )
Normally if one connects a component to an electrical Power .
If it is to small it can fry. Capacitors and diodes Fuses ....and so
Or the system can adapt the power supply via the regulator .. The system is smart enough to sense that there is a difference.
And goes lower. ( Battery tenders they have the capability to sense what battery one tries to charge.)
Series or shunt regulators ..
The series is smarter .. Seems More modern
The shunt should it be able to perform ..must shift off the excess created power somewhere . It is large so most likely it can do it
( 2 of them have been tried ) ---continuously ---but that is not certain either ..it would have to do it under longer time and can run hot.
And fry. And then fry other things Such designs have been out there on Suzukis beginning 80 ies
People did not charge batteries in the winter. Going low
Come spring put the key in .. Started ..and the regulator demanded full Power under to long time and fried ..Leaving it in the Position full charging
and then Fried the alternator.
The other ...Series can adapt smarter and quicker ..But it is still manufactured for another system ( Full wiring and Larger Battery )
We don't know if the actual system is within its range capable of adjusting. If it is outside then anything can happen.
I assume it is a Lithium Battery which appears more sensitive.

I have not been able to open the link with the wiring for the regulator if someone can do and post it would be a help
At this point in time I don't know if it is a Series or a Shunt regulator.
I do suspect that the small battery takes a beating starting up ..going down -- And then the big A** regulator opens up.
Putting on around 15 V and who knows what Ampere. At the battery..for how long
Lets see what Voltage readings we get.
And if possible Ampere.
And the kick only testing period.
??? More consumers on the Bike ??????
But again this is a type of system I don't know ..But is interesting.....
 
Back
Top