PO ruined my lower case.

[enoble1691]

So I have the bike torn down and rewired and all but ready to ride and I go to find that one of the mounting points for the stator to be bolted down has been destroyed. Looks to me that the PO broke a bolt off. Then broke an easy out. Then decided to drill it.

The hole is mangled. No chance of re tapping it. What now?

I really do not have the skill or money to tear the engine down and replace that part of the case. Is there any way to make that stator secure without that bolt.

Thanks guys.

 

[XSLeo]

If you can find a welder that can weld aluminum, have him fill the hole. Then you can use the stator as a drill guide to get the hole where it needs to be, then drill and tap the hole.
Leo

 

[retiredgentleman]

Yes, that's a nasty thing to see. It could have been prevented if the PO had understood the importance of using a torque wrench.

 

[angus67]

Dont need a torque wrench. Its screwd on

 

[enoble1691]

Ok what about making a bracket that I could attach to the side cover and bolt up to the stator?

I think it would work, just gotta execute.

 

[retiredgentleman]

Dont need a torque wrench. Its screwd on

Not on my bike. I changed them to bolts, so that I can use a torque wrench. Those are 6 mm threads, which can be easily stripped by inexperienced mechanics.
Besides these 2 bolts, there are other 6 mm bolts on these bikes, such as the engine sump plate which has 6 of them.

Anyone that works on these engines/bikes, should have an inch/pound torque wrench, to prevent unpleasant and costly stripped bolts/screws.

 

[gggGary]

A pic of your wounded case might help us. the stator is located by the tabs as well as the two bolts so if there is much "stump" left you could fill, drill, and tap some JB weld then be super careful tightening the stator bolt into the hole. If the stump is really brutalized perhaps you could file it flat and JB weld a nut on it. remember that the slot in the stator frame has to align on the pin in the lower crank at 7 o:clock, a misalignment may have been what trashed the crankcase thread in the first place.

 

[CDNTX650]

Not on my bike. I changed them to bolts, so that I can use a torque wrench. Those are 6 mm threads, which can be easily stripped by inexperienced mechanics.
Besides these 2 bolts, there are other 6 mm bolts on these bikes, such as the engine sump plate which has 6 of them.

Anyone that works on these engines/bikes, should have an inch/pound torque wrench, to prevent unpleasant and costly stripped bolts/screws.

The same people who need to torque 6 mm bolts for a stator probably can't put spark plugs in by feel too....

 

[angus67]

ooooooo....burn!

 

[CDNTX650]

Well it's just a feel.....like setting up the drum brakes on an old car.

 

[retiredgentleman]

The same people who need to torque 6 mm bolts for a stator probably can't put spark plugs in by feel too....

With the stock stator screws, since they have screw heads, its hard to see how they could be over torqued. Most likely the PO simply cross threaded it..................over use of anti-seize on the threads removes the feel, and can lead to cross threading.

You are correct; I do use a torque wrench for spark plugs. I turn them in using my fingers until they are seated, and then use a torque wrench to tighten them.

I've never had to use a heli-coil on any of my cars, trucks or motorcycles. Maybe I've just been lucky. You make your own luck.

Wasn't it just a few days ago, that a thread was talking about changing his cylinder head because the spark plug thread was stripped?
Oh here it is: http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=44696

 

[gggGary]

If you use JB weld to build up and thread do not use a torque wrench, use a wood block and tap the stator frame with a hammer to be positive the stator is seated firmly, then just a careful hand on wrench tightening/snugging.

 

[retiredgentleman]

It seems to me that enoble1691 (and his PO) does not have the skill or experience to repair this type of problem.

The proper solution is to use a heli-coil. He should search around his town and find a machine shop that could do this for him. Yes, this will cost money, but its money well spent.

 

[grizld1]

I dunno, RG; there's not a lot of meat in that (formerly) threaded extrusion, and drilling it out and tapping it for a heli-coil is going to make it pretty thin.

One quick and dirty solution for a stripped out 6 mm. hole is to tap it out for a 1/4x20 SAE fastener. There's no need to drill; run the 1/4x20 tap in, then knock off the tapered end of the tap on a grinder to thread to the bottom of the blind hole. Be careful to cut the new 1/4x20 fastener to the same length as the old 6 mm. screw. Run a nut down the fastener before you cut, cut flush, and use the nut to clean up the end thread.

 

[retiredgentleman]

Yes, I agree griz...................its hard to say, without a picture, whether there is enough metal left to do a heli-coil.
The lad posts a question, so the least he can do is post a picture.