Messy work shop?
Less likely to be burglared.......it's what I tell me self.
Less likely to be burglared.......it's what I tell me self.
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Popping my XS650 cherry, the Journey so far.
- Thread starter SpookyWizard
- Start date
SpookyWizard
The real magic is that I haven't blown myself up!
Update time!
Well that's the crank case bolted together and torqued up, gave everything a lube up before smacking it together again, nice to be able to get it on my stand as well!
I've got a blanking plate on the way for the starter delete and also need to purchase new sprockets so any advice on that would be appreciated, I've read that 17/32 is good and also pretty widely used?
Well that's the crank case bolted together and torqued up, gave everything a lube up before smacking it together again, nice to be able to get it on my stand as well!
I've got a blanking plate on the way for the starter delete and also need to purchase new sprockets so any advice on that would be appreciated, I've read that 17/32 is good and also pretty widely used?
I've found 17/34 running an 18" rear is ideal for myself. I've had 17/32 with a 16" rear wheel but more downshifting was in play.
This is running on secondary roads with straightaways few and far between and max posted speed of 55 mph......I rarely go above 70 but the throttle says there's more to be had if I was so inclined........I try to keep it below my age.
This is running on secondary roads with straightaways few and far between and max posted speed of 55 mph......I rarely go above 70 but the throttle says there's more to be had if I was so inclined........I try to keep it below my age.
It all depends how you want the bike to feel when the light turns green. I find 17/33 to be good on my Special, especially keeping up with traffic. My preference is no doubt 17/34 and that was what my bike came with.
YMMV
I'm running the 17-32 combo on my Special with it's 16" wheel and like it. I tried the 32 on my Standard with it's 18" rear wheel and didn't like it. For the 18" wheel, I find a 33T is ideal. Here's a chart showing the top speeds with various sprocket combos. As you can see, the 17-32 on a 16" wheel is very close (only slightly higher) to a 17-33 on an 18" wheel .....
SpookyWizard
The real magic is that I haven't blown myself up!
This is sounding like what I'm going for!
SpookyWizard
The real magic is that I haven't blown myself up!
Great info thank you
SpookyWizard
The real magic is that I haven't blown myself up!
So im waiting on a shim washer for the clutch basket to turn up as I seem to have misplaced the original one, whoops!!
In the meantime I decided to have a go at making up a battery tray, just a very rough and very simple cut and bend job but it does the trick for now!
Next up for the frame is some sort of fake oil tank or something to house the electrics.
In the meantime I decided to have a go at making up a battery tray, just a very rough and very simple cut and bend job but it does the trick for now!
Next up for the frame is some sort of fake oil tank or something to house the electrics.
SpookyWizard
The real magic is that I haven't blown myself up!
Update!
The shim washers turned up so tonight I found time to reinstall the clutch basket and also checked all the piston, ring and bore tolerances which were spot-on so put those back on as well!
I have a question about the tach drive, so I'm missing the full assembly and don't have any clock either. Would buying a blanking plug to delete it be fine and then use a GPS speedometer on my phone or is it worth getting a traditional guage?
The shim washers turned up so tonight I found time to reinstall the clutch basket and also checked all the piston, ring and bore tolerances which were spot-on so put those back on as well!
I have a question about the tach drive, so I'm missing the full assembly and don't have any clock either. Would buying a blanking plug to delete it be fine and then use a GPS speedometer on my phone or is it worth getting a traditional guage?
What is real nice about the cable driven tachometer on this motorcycle is that it is driven by the oil pump. If it’s indicating, the oil pump is turning. Otherwise, I don’t see a problem with no clocks at all. I know when I’m speeding. I don’t need a needle to tell me.
Set up a search on Ebay and then oneday a tacho drive may turn up at a price you are prepared to pay. An alternative could be the blanking plug and an electronic tacho run off the 12V power lead to the ignition coil. Just depends what you want. Plenty of time to decide and not very inconvenient to remove the side cover at a later date to install a tacho drive.
Keep up the hard work...
Keep up the hard work...
SpookyWizard
The real magic is that I haven't blown myself up!
Thank you, I was about to do this but an awesome member of the community has sent me the parts I need completely free of charge!Set up a search on Ebay and then oneday a tacho drive may turn up at a price you are prepared to pay. An alternative could be the blanking plug and an electronic tacho run off the 12V power lead to the ignition coil. Just depends what you want. Plenty of time to decide and not very inconvenient to remove the side cover at a later date to install a tacho drive.
Keep up the hard work...
SpookyWizard
The real magic is that I haven't blown myself up!
UPDATE TIME:
so this evening I got a little bit of time on the engine.
Thanks to an amazing guy on the xs650 UK page over on Facebook a little parcel turned up today containing a tach drive housing and blanking cap so got that fitted as well as finishing up the starter delete with a freeze plug!
A question on this - so I installed the plug by hammering it into place from the side with a slight chamfer, it took a few heavy hits but eventually went in, for anyone that's done this are they pretty reliable? I'm worried it's just going to shoot out under pressure from the oil
Also I got the top end rebuild started, honed the bores and cleaned them out then with abit of patience, tongue depressors and help from my old man got the rings staggered and cylanders pushed in to the bores!
My next decision and also investment will be an oil filter for the side, I don't have anything apart from the cover at the moment so I'm thinking about going for the spin on mod you can get as they seem to be popular and also cheaper to replace over time but not a silly amount more money than buying the mesh screen type filter and bolt to go with it. What are people's opinions on them?
I'm still going to be running the stock sump filter however I will be adding a sump spacer from the guys from smed speed and then modding my current filter with some metal sheeting to reinforce the end that gets torn normally from the pressure changes!
Untill next time!
so this evening I got a little bit of time on the engine.
Thanks to an amazing guy on the xs650 UK page over on Facebook a little parcel turned up today containing a tach drive housing and blanking cap so got that fitted as well as finishing up the starter delete with a freeze plug!
A question on this - so I installed the plug by hammering it into place from the side with a slight chamfer, it took a few heavy hits but eventually went in, for anyone that's done this are they pretty reliable? I'm worried it's just going to shoot out under pressure from the oil
Also I got the top end rebuild started, honed the bores and cleaned them out then with abit of patience, tongue depressors and help from my old man got the rings staggered and cylanders pushed in to the bores!
My next decision and also investment will be an oil filter for the side, I don't have anything apart from the cover at the moment so I'm thinking about going for the spin on mod you can get as they seem to be popular and also cheaper to replace over time but not a silly amount more money than buying the mesh screen type filter and bolt to go with it. What are people's opinions on them?
I'm still going to be running the stock sump filter however I will be adding a sump spacer from the guys from smed speed and then modding my current filter with some metal sheeting to reinforce the end that gets torn normally from the pressure changes!
Untill next time!
Here's an option from across the Channel that uses a common paper Honda element
https://www.heidentuning.com/xs650-...lter-kit-heiden-tuning-design-new-detail.html
https://www.heidentuning.com/xs650-...lter-kit-heiden-tuning-design-new-detail.html
That's a nice looking product from Heiden and the price seems very respectable...
It could be blasted to match the engine finish.
It could be blasted to match the engine finish.
SpookyWizard
The real magic is that I haven't blown myself up!
I've been slacking lately but finally update time!
Ordered the heiden tuning oil filter modifications, the spin on side filter and the metal gauze sump filter, I haven't got any photos yet but will take some before I install them on the engine.
Also the spare valve collets turned up so I finished installing the valves, lapped them and everything!
Next I got the new cam chain riveted together which was a total faf and could have done with and extra set of hands! But I did use magnet out of fear of dropping the link into the crank cases
Last job from this update was to torque up the cylinder head.
Ordered the heiden tuning oil filter modifications, the spin on side filter and the metal gauze sump filter, I haven't got any photos yet but will take some before I install them on the engine.
Also the spare valve collets turned up so I finished installing the valves, lapped them and everything!
Next I got the new cam chain riveted together which was a total faf and could have done with and extra set of hands! But I did use magnet out of fear of dropping the link into the crank cases
Last job from this update was to torque up the cylinder head.
SpookyWizard
The real magic is that I haven't blown myself up!
BUGGERATION!
went to fit the oil feed and without even much force this happened
So ....do I need a full new line or can I get a replacement nut for it?
went to fit the oil feed and without even much force this happened
So ....do I need a full new line or can I get a replacement nut for it?
Oh, you can easily get a new nut for that, the problem lies in getting it on.
You'd have to unbraze the union from the bottom of the pipe, slip the nut on then re-braze the union back on.
Less hassle just buying a new pipe assembly.
I came up with a Tach/HourMeter that has only a wire pickup wrapped around one plug wire. Internal watch battery quarter sized lasts 3 years the say. 3/4" x 2" display. It's a fools errand to run this motor much beyond 5500-6000rpm so a tach is window dressing, but, handy for tuning hence my little digital.Set up a search on Ebay and then oneday a tacho drive may turn up at a price you are prepared to pay. An alternative could be the blanking plug and an electronic tacho run off the 12V power lead to the ignition coil. Just depends what you want. Plenty of time to decide and not very inconvenient to remove the side cover at a later date to install a tacho drive.
Keep up the hard work...
