Pulling the Case Apart for the 1st time: What all should I be checking?

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meteorgnome

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Have to pull everything apart to get at the transmission and shift assembly. Given the size of the task, it strikes me that It makes sense to at least check everything I possibly can, and replace as much as is needed.

However, this is the first time I've ever doing this, so it's all new to me.

What all should I be making sure I check?

I'm planning on giving the clutch a once over, probably replacing clutch springs, and maybe more if needed (will probably make a post about that once I make it that far) - but asides from just generally looking for 'wear' I don't know any specifics I should be paying attention to.
 
meteorgnome said:
Have to pull everything apart to get at the transmission and shift assembly. Given the size of the task, it strikes me that It makes sense to at least check everything I possibly can, and replace as much as is needed.

However, this is the first time I've ever doing this, so it's all new to me.

What all should I be making sure I check?

I'm planning on giving the clutch a once over, probably replacing clutch springs, and maybe more if needed (will probably make a post about that once I make it that far) - but asides from just generally looking for 'wear' I don't know any specifics I should be paying attention to.
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One thing I would suggest is you make sure you remove all the case bolts and nuts before you try prying the cases apart. There is one nut holding the crankcases together inside the clutch cover.
 
Well obviously, you need to address whatever made you feel the need to open up the engine. As you remove the cam box, look at the cams themselves, the cam followers, the tappets and tops of the valves - wear, scoring. Then you need to look at the bores - start by feeling for the wear ridge near the top of the barrels. Examine the pistons - scoring, discoloration, burnt oil. In which case, you need to investigate why it is burning oil - worn valve guides, worn or broken piston rings. Before you pull the pistons off, assess little- and big-end wear.

The big one most people will mention is the cam chain tensioner - if in any doubt, replace it. Then as you get into the lower end of the engine, it's just checking everything, For example, it's worth taking a look at the oil pump. Inspect the gears - a visual inspection for broken or damaged teeth.

Put up photos and people will give advice. There are service limits for everything but if, like me, you don't trust yourself to measure to 1/1000 of an inch, you can always take things like the barrels to an engineer for an opinion.

As @Bob Wegman says, make sure you really have removed all the fasteners. In general, most things are designed to be dismantlable so if things don't readily come apart, take another look, consult your manual, ask the people hereabouts.

A manual is very useful. Good basic tools are essential. Helps to have a good place to work. Definitely helps to be organised, group components together in labelled plastic bags, take photos, ask questions. Good luck, and remember, it's not rocket science.
 
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Appreciate it!

Yeah, I've got all the parts I've taken off so far already organized in labeled plastic bags, tape labels on all disconnected electrical components.

Will be breaking the cam chain in the next few days once my chain breaker arrives.

I'm partially hesitant to mess with anything besides the actual fix I need to make to the transmission, as really the only problem that I've noticed in the few months of riding regularly was an oil pressure switch that had a tendency to come on for no reason and then shut off again. But if the parts are past wear tolerances, with everything open it makes sense to replace replace replace.
 
Niels B said:
assume you are aware that you didn't have to take the heads and cylinders of to work on the transmission ! it can be split upside down if you only needed to work on tranny
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Exactly.

But if the top end is off already, now is the time to replace the service parts that can't be done with the engine in the bike.
 
Ehhh I feel more uncomfortable about doing it that way- I'd rather both not have to pay 125$ for an engine mount, and I think it seems more straightforward taking it apart top down. I appreciate the info though.
 
meteorgnome said:
Ehhh I feel more uncomfortable about doing it that way- I'd rather both not have to pay 125$ for an engine mount, and I think it seems more straightforward taking it apart top down. I appreciate the info though.
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Well I worked a bunch of engines by now so have had this mount for a while - if you just work one engine and don’t expect to use it again it’s a bit steep , but if you have it already it’s actually a super easy way to work top or bottom or both. But sure the money can be spend better getting parts you need :)
 
I watched further into the video and it actually does look real easy that way - unfortunately I'm working in a small shed and not a garage and have no engine hoist, so It looks like top down is the way to go for me for now. Yeah it's just the one bike I have at the moment, so (fingers crossed) it'll be the only time I have to take it apart this far for a couple of years at least. And then by then I'll be in a space with a garage hopefully and can actually do some other more cosmetic/ 'build' work. For now I just want to be back riding ASAP. Missed most of the summer last year- Goal is to be on the road by May at the latest. Got all of northern maine to explore
 
meteorgnome said:
Ehhh I feel more uncomfortable about doing it that way- I'd rather both not have to pay 125$ for an engine mount, and I think it seems more straightforward taking it apart top down. I appreciate the info though.
Click to expand...
Whether you take the top end apart or not you still have to have a way to hold the engine when it's upside down.
 
Hrm. I think maybe was imagining this a bit different than it actually is. My clymer manual is out in the shed right now- I was under the impression I could access the top of the transmission with the transmission still in the frame - though I kind of jumped into this project the first day the weather turned here and haven't read all the way through the job yet
:lmao:

have just been taking it a step or two at a time so far.

some of the other videos I've watched of gearbox work, I may have just assumed the 'top' was off- when it was sitting on the table, when in fact it was upside down. woops.

In which case- anyone have any budget ideas for holding the engine in the proper position? I'll buy the mount if I have to- the job is going to be considerably cheaper than paying a mechanic even if I do- but, you know. I could buy alot of ground beef with 125$.
 
GLJ said:
Whether you take the top end apart or not you still have to have a way to hold the engine when it's upside down.
Click to expand...
1742426773929.png

Mine's on the floor upside down. I used a motorcycle jack to hold the back half.
 
ahha- yeah I totally just assumed that was the top of the engine off when I was looking at those videos.

For the jack- I could make this work with wooden blocks? Or no?

Also, how heavy is that transmission- Something I can lift out of the frame myself once the top part of the engine is off of it? I imagine it couldn't be more than 75-80 lbs.
 

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