Real Estate Update

One thought that I had this late in the game is having an overhead hoist available. It wouldn't be too late to install some proper support.

Its never too late @Oldschool - and as for proper support, Have no Fear, I'm an Engineer!

40x25x12, lights hung to 9': LED strip lighting?

https://v1-zonal-tools.luxiflux.com?ShareId=46429d0fd158496eba2edf71c8c33f18

3 rows of 4 strips each ?, IDK, I haven't used those (yet), just FWIW

Now THAT is cool - many thanks @jpdevol!
 
Its never too late @Oldschool - and as for proper support, Have no Fear, I'm an Engineer!



Now THAT is cool - many thanks @jpdevol!
My eyesight is fine!
Just need a bit more light............

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Wouldn't the wall sheathing do the same
I've just never seen it
Me no engineer.
The exterior panel ribs and typically the panel screws are installed on the ribs allow the panels to flex. They need to as the metal expands a lot in sunlight.
Since the contractor isn't installing the interior wall sheathing they can't use it in their calculations.
you can see extensive cross bracing in our horsy barn walls and roof. I was extra concerned cuz a full loft of hay is 6-8 tons. Add a foot of wet snow to the roof. And yeah. You see a lot of old buildings that are still sound but have the leans
 

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What is the metal cross bracing for
Code?

Yes - apparently, this type of building has no requirement for traditional plywood or even OSB sheathing and so there is actually no resistance to shear loading until the siding goes on - except for the poles themselves and their concrete base. Now, the build is quick - like about 48 hours from start till siding is completed - but that is still plenty of time for the thing to become a parallelogram / house of cards in a windy place.

Those skinny little steel straps give a surprising amount of stiffness to the thing.

Pete
 
That steel strapping looks like a good idea. Back in the late 1970's when we were building our hose and the small barn I got an excellent deal on some second hand corrugated aluminum roofing that a neighbor of my brother had used to cover his house roof after some storm damage.

Originally had planed on using T1-11 plywood sheathing for the barn. But the price on this aluminum was hard to pass up. Talked to a friend who had been in the building trade for about 40 years. He said the aluminum is a good deal but one problem is it would not make for a strong structure. His solution was to have me use let in bracing. This was done by building walls out of 2X4's then while still laying flat on the cement slab he said to lay a 1X3 furring strip diagonally on the studs then mark with pencil and take a circular saw and cut on the lines then use a chisel to pop out the 3/4 notches and then nail the furring strips in. Then stand the walls up. It was surprising how stiff those 10 foot tall 28 foot long frames were when we stood them up. 40+ years latter and it's still standing solid as the day we built it.
 
Well, a visible next step on the Great Canadian Pole Barn project has occurred. The parking pad out front and the sidewalk down the north side of the barn has been poured and finished - and I am really pleased. The pad is about 11'x10' (the spacing of the two awning columns is 11') so it is big enough for several bikes to park while I get the door open and the sidewalk down the north side is 3' wide (yes, despite the fact that Canada has been on the SI system for about 45 years, we still use Imperial measurements for things like building materials and building dimensions). The overhead door is scheduled for installation tomorrow.

Here are some photos taken this morning.

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Well, a visible next step on the Great Canadian Pole Barn project has occurred. The parking pad out front and the sidewalk down the north side of the barn has been poured and finished - and I am really pleased. The pad is about 11'x10' (the spacing of the two awning columns is 11') so it is big enough for several bikes to park while I get the door open and the sidewalk down the north side is 3' wide (yes, despite the fact that Canada has been on the SI system for about 45 years, we still use Imperial measurements for things like building materials and building dimensions). The overhead door is scheduled for installation tomorrow.

Here are some photos taken this morning.

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Its getting close now Pete, I’ll bet you’re getting excited to get in there and start setting things up. It looks great!
 
Its getting close now Pete, I’ll bet you’re getting excited to get in there and start setting things up. It looks great!

Oooohhhh yes. After the overhead door, I am getting the floor painted with a non-slip coating and then sealed - and THEN I get going on the wiring and the ceiling etc. etc.

P
 
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Pete, your shop project had me thinking I should insulate my garage for the winter season. Looking at spray foam. Expensive but looks like a good plan for the underside of the roof. To keep costs down I may use rock wool on the walls with drywall to cap it off.

Is your building completed?
 
Pete, your shop project had me thinking I should insulate my garage for the winter season. Looking at spray foam. Expensive but looks like a good plan for the underside of the roof. To keep costs down I may use rock wool on the walls with drywall to cap it off.

Is your building completed?

Hi Vic: yup, it is externally complete (the big garage door is on and the concrete around the front and side are done). Mrs. MaxPete has even started the landscaping around the perimeter. In fact, the final inspection is slated for today!

The parking pad out front is about 12' deep and 14' wide so lots of room for bikes to park ( even large 3-cylinder ring-dings....;) ) while I get the overhead door open.

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The inside hasn't had much done (you aren't allowed to do any interior wall or ceiling installations until the final inspection as I understand it) but the plan is to run the electrical wiring through the posts and up into the ceiling etc. and then insulate the walls with Roxul (rock wool) and vapour barrier. Finally, a steel ceiling will be installed with blown-in cellulose up there.

Then I'll have the walls finished - likely with more steel (its about $2.00/sf.) versus the snazzy TrussCore PVC panelling which is nearly $5/sf. The steel will go up with holes for the wiring to protrude into the barn interior (see the attached video).

I'm not keen on the conduit-inside pole barns look so I will mount the electrical boxes (switches and receptacles etc.) on the interior surface of the walls - as shown in the video below. I think this will be a nice clean look and much less labour intensive than other methods. I especially like the idea of stapling the wires a short distance from the hole in the steel liner - to allow the boxes to be positioning neatly between major ribs.


Pete
 
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I wish I would have poured a bigger slab out front 2' long is not enough
Maybe next year ad on another 10'
Parking on the now pretty much dead lawn with a piece of 1/4 plywood to stop the bikes from taking a dive is getting old
Looking good Pete !!
 
Thanks Mikey!

One more little detail which was not in the video: to protect the wiring from the sharp edges of the holes in the metal liner and ceiling, I will be using these plastic grommets from Home Despot - which are intended precisely for that purpose.

I am also looking at floor paint / epoxy. I want a non-slip surface and I got a quote from a local firm of more than $5K <holy crappola!!!) for them to do it - so, this will be a DIY affair methinks.

Pete
 
Now is the time to do it Pete, before you have anything on the floor and while it is in great condition. I'd love to do mine but the mere thought of moving EVERYTHING outside to clean, prep and seal has steered me away.
 
5K wow You are right on the money on the DIY angle
5K will buy a lot of things to put into the shop and not just on the floor
 
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