Hey JP - that is going to be quite to palatial workshop - looking forward to updates!
Hokey Dokey sportsfans - its time for another update on the
Great Canadian Polebarn project.
After the big 3-man plywood extravaganza of a couple of weeks ago (and many thanks to
@totalfool and
@lakeview for their stalwart assistance), I have continued with the wiring - and now, I think, it is largely complete - except for the 220v power (see below).
..although, not without a
"close encounter of the knife kind"...
(is that why they call these pictures "thumbnails? Gee, its a good thing I'm a doctor).

As I noted earlier, each structural post (12' high PT 6x6s on 8-foot centres) has a 4"x4" double-duplex surface mount box with four 110v receptacles. One device in each double-wide box has two USB charging ports. These little jaspers went on sale at
Home Despot and they really are great. Anyhow, with this layout, I won't need a bunch of charger blocks scattered around and getting lost (
I'll bet there are a a crapload of them hiding out with all the 10mm sockets and wrenches that I have mislaid over the decades...) and the use of extension cords (
aka the
"ideal tripping hazard") will also be minimized.
If I had it to do again, I think I would use all deep boxes instead of a mix of shallow and deep - as some of the boxes have a fair number of connections in them and it isn't easy to pack them in.

The receptacles are on three separate circuits (2x20A and 1x15A): the in-floor heating system is on the smaller breaker with two receptacle boxes, then all of the boxes on the north side of the building are on a 20A circuit and the same on the south side of the building. Each circuit in the building is protected by a GFCI (
ground fault circuit indicator) device, shown at right in the photo below, in case of an incident involving water or, say....bodily fluids (
who, me?).

There are also four exterior receptacles (one on each side of the building) which are fed off the north- and south-side 20A circuits. It is very unlikely that I would be using many of the receptacles
simultaneously except for light loads such as chargers, so there is plenty of capacity everywhere on-site. There will also be two 220v heavy power circuits wired-in soon on double 30A breakers: one for the MIG welder and the other for the AC system (yet to be sourced -
suggestions welcome....).
Anyhow, everything has been checked and is correct and to code.

On the lighting side, I have already described the interior lighting which continues to work well and so I moved on to the exterior lights. Our area doesn't seem to have a lot of break-ins, but
fore-armed is fore-warned so I went big with 150W LED fixtures from the
Hyperlites Wall-E series and they are just the ticket. The lights are also GFCI protected and I have them on a timer which calculates dusk and dawn, based on the latitude and longitude (
hey - I'm an engineer and I like gadgets). It all seems to work well thus far - even my two
chinoise variable-speed DC fans which I bought el-cheapo from Princess Auto (Canadian equivalent to Horrible Fright). Having the internet service brought into the building was also a good thing as I watch a lot of YouTube.

Oddly, the photo doesn't show the lighting correctly. Those are 150W 5000K LEDs so they cast an intense pure white light and not the yellowish hue you see below. The little doo-hickey between the window and the light near the man-door is the chimney for the heating system boiler.
NOTE: that snow shovel has only been used once or twice all winter and only to clear off the sidewalk near the man-door one day a couple of weeks ago.
NEXT STEPS:
1) Figure out what to put on the 8' high wall-section above the plywood interior wall cladding: candidates include more plywood and snazzy, but expensive,
TrussCore PVC panelling. There will be one or more
big-@ss TVs mounted up there, plus the usual collection of garage art and soft porn posters. I want the cladding to be clean and easy to install (it will
not be gyp-roc - I
HATE HATE HATE gyp-roc) plus it must be robust as this is a workshop - not a showroom for rare china and crystal.
2) Research, acquire and install the AC system: current candidates include a full-on contractor-installed
Lennox, Mitsubishi or equiv. system or a
Mr. Cool DIY system. The cost difference is substantial and I sort of like the idea of doing it myself - but I want it to
work as it gets
danged hot around here in the summer.
As always,
feedback / suggests / comments / slag-offs are most welcome!
Cheers,
Pete