Rear wheel axle stuck?

So that axle will not come out. I guess I will leave it be for now until I order some new parts. Until than I am started on the front brakes. Old pads came out no problem but the new pads I’m having trouble with. One that goes against the prison fits fine but the other side I can’t seem to get to go in. I loosed the Phillips head screw almost all the way out but it seems like it won’t fit. I measured them up with the old ones and they are identical. Any tricks or tips?
 
Did you compress the piston before you put the pad in? You are going to have to destroy your bearings to get that axle out and it absolutely has to come out at this point. Do you have access to an air or slide hammer?
 
You say rear pads so it's a disk rear? then it's a special and the swing arm ends have removable blocks. #12
1647907409693.png

drop the adjusters down remove the bolt #11 holding the block in place, remove the rear wheel with axle in place axle from the swing arm then with the axle end in a hole you can actually be effective in a removing it with blows.
PS There is no need to remove the axle or wheel to replace brake pads. The caliper unbolts from the carrier, remove one bolt #6 and that phillips on rear backed out, it comes right up and out making pad replacement simple, this is true front AND rear.
1647907198890.png

If it's a new to you bike calipers and master cylinders need to be rebuilt and new brake lines installed front and rear.

https://www.xs650.com/threads/help-with-caliper-rebuild.41676/#post-417294
 
I have a new master for the front. Yes the piston is compressed. Did it with my clamp like I do for my cars. The real axle got me frustrated. So I moved on to give me a break
 
Gary I think he’s talking about the front pads. Very first post says shoes. Great suggestion though if it was only that easy.
"The bike is an 81 special"
That bike has the swing arm with the removable rear blocks also, the wheel with the axle still in will come straight out the back.
 
I just looked at an '81 parts drawing and the swingarm doesn't have those removable blocks (I didn't think it did) .....

https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/1981/xs650sh/rear-arm-suspension

Do you have a compressor? If you do, go to HF and get yourself an air hammer. Cut the end off the chisel attachment and make it a blunt point. Use that to impact against the stuck axle. It should break it free.
 
Don't recall seeing this, but when you beat on the axle, make sure the opposite side of the swing arm is braced up against something really solid. Whacking the axle in free air will have much less effectiveness vs something that is supported on the opposite side. Unsupported, the assembly will have a tendency to “spring back” when you hit it. Maybe a 2x4 against the swing arm (with end of axle free) and the other end against the base of a block or concrete wall. Not a bad idea to have the 2x4 rest against another 2x4, perpendicular to the one used for support. Your wall will be happier if you do this. If already suggested, my bad for speed reading.
 
Thinking out loud
Strange sitting so hard
Conical chisel under the Bolt head non thread side.
perhaps on two opposing sides and then hit the other side with a wooden block in between.

If you have flatbar making your own short wedeges and use some kind of clamp or vice.

something like below

1647935902477.png
 
Looking at ggg’s pic, is there space to get a pipe wrench on the spacer between the hub and swing arm? If there is, get two pipe wrenches and put one on the spacer and the other on the head of the axle and give it a twist. If the axle is hung up on the spacer, this may break it free. If the spacer won’t move, I’d try gentle heat eith a propane torch and try twisting it again. If you know someone with an induction heater, that would be good too for localized heating of that spacer. If it still won’t move, you could drill a hole through the top of the spacer, to the axle and keep feeding it penetrating oil for several days to get at the corrosion.

If the spacer turns and the axle is still stuck, then it’s probably hung up on the bearings.
 
I was also on the pipe wrench thinking
I was into grabbing the bolt end and locking the brake to prevent the wheel rotating and try to turn it
There is also the transverse hole in the bolt a pin can be inserted in for tapping on for a twisting motion.
Carefully.
Also a claw as in a hammer can fit over the pin and leverage it outwards

But the heat and oil routine I would use for at least a week having oil in there
Before using force and damaging things

More info about what size hammer is used could help to get a feel if it is dangerously hard hitting
Or as always pictures and a film
 
Probably slide right out lol
Got all ready to do battle.
I filed the pliers marks off the nut to get a socket on it.

KIMG0776.JPG

This one needed a cut off blade in the angle grinder, it was just an SAE bolt butchered in place of the correct shoulder bolt.
KIMG0780.JPG

KIMG0779.JPG

First tap and it came loose. Removed the nut, hit it everywhere with PB blaster a few more times tapped in and out a time or two grabbed the drift and it came right out. Who'd a thunk it?
Chain is so stiff you could use it as a spear. Motor locked tight.
but axle? no problem.
brake shoes are prolly even OK and the drum should clean up fine, anyone need a drum mag rear wheel?

KIMG0781.JPG
 
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