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Rear wheel clicking noise

Here's a thread on refurbing a drum brake (see post #3). That vidoe in post #7 is OK except he assembles it dry - you never do that. You need to grease some of the parts .....

https://www.xs650.com/threads/how-difficult-is-it-to-replace-the-rear-drum-brakes.25632/

And the grease of choice is Sta-Lube Premium Red grease .........

Sta-LubeRed.jpg

You can get a tube of it at HF.
 
interesting....i rotated the cam shaft so the dot points towards the axle and when i reinstalled, the brake was binding and the drum would not rotate at all. I rotated the cam back so the dot was pointed out, and problem solved...too much on and off for one night so i'll inspect closer this week
 
interesting....i rotated the cam shaft so the dot points towards the axle and when i reinstalled, the brake was binding and the drum would not rotate at all. I rotated the cam back so the dot was pointed out, and problem solved...too much on and off for one night so i'll inspect closer this week
Hmmmm... sounds like something else is going on? I don't think the cam orientation itself would cause that, as the orientation only has an effect when the cam begins to rotate and push the shoes out; when static in the unapplied "resting" position (flat sides resting against shoes) neither radius is in the mix.
 
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I think you failed to rotate the spacer washer 180° when you rotated the cam. The "dished out" portion of that spacer washer must face down, towards the electric brake wear switch, or where it would be mounted ......

74-79Camshaft.jpg


74-76Plate2.jpg


'77 Brake Hub.jpg
 
to be honest i didnt remove the cam from the drum...i just rotated the brake lever 180 degress and it rotated the cam without removing the shoes. maybe that was stupid for stretching the springs that much....
 
If it were me (and you haven't done this already?), I would go back to square one, remove everything, clean it all up completely, grease appropriately and carefully reassemble as per the tutorials. Then you should have the brake in shape and be good to go.

I rebuilt my brake in this exact way and it turned out great. One caveat... assembled with new shoes and before you get a chance to ride it and initially bed those shoes, the brake will likely be tight and a little difficult to rotate by hand.
 
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to be honest i didnt remove the cam from the drum...i just rotated the brake lever 180 degress and it rotated the cam without removing the shoes.
Would never have occurred to me that this was even a thing...

Also, just out of curiosity, which brand of shoes/springs did you use? Springs just don't look as robust as most?
 
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i bought the springs and shoes from Mike's XS. I will take a close up pic of them today and post here
 
i bought the springs and shoes from Mike's XS. I will take a close up pic of them today and post here
Here is a pic of mine when I rebuilt it...Ferodo shoes and OEM springs.
markup_117.jpg

Also, here is some good advice I received from member @vexsed: "When you lock the axle nut up make sure the torsion arm nut is loose and your foot is on the footbrake. This centres the shoes and positions the torsion arm. Don't forget to do the nut up and pin it. Will still need bedding in. Can slightly bevel the shoe leading edges. May still get a rub especially if the drum is out of round."
 
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