regulator/rectifier

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BACK SHIFT

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Hi, I am still in need of some help on my 82 XS 650 heritage not charging? My Cylmer and Haynes manuals are near the wood stove today? I am getting nutty seeing not much direction on the regulator test. My machine has a Rect, along with a regulator separate, all appears to be factory. both have 7 pole connectors going to the harness. My books show only a Rect/regulator combined into one unit? I must be missing something, as I am not able to even begin to understand how I am to check these two units for Ohm readings, for getting closer to figuring out my problems, good or bad. Further confusion for my dumb ass is all I see listed as for replacement parts seems to be only a listing for a rect./reg. with the one harness connector. Hoping you XS lovers can help a fellow rider out on this situation? Very much appreciated, all the help you guys have been kind enough to share with me on this machine.
Thanks again,
back shift
 
Early models had separate regulator and rectifier, later models had a combined unit, someone has obviously done a swap. You can get combined units on ebay for reasonable prices, not OEM though.
 
Never posted a pic of your bike nor any information to be able to scrutiny.

All Oceania and European models were points models with separate Regulators and rectifiers through to 82/3.

Need to identify your bike with either and the VIN, pics of components or its just a crap shoot
 
Hi Skull,
I will get some photos taken for you asap. The MFD date is
08-1981
ID # JYAV400 XCA003528
Stem # 5V4-003528
Eng. Block # 653CM 3
6 plate clutch
bike color Black
Spoke Wheels
!6'' inch rear steel rims
This bike has no Ign. points
Rotor checks 0K
Shows no signs to me anyway of having been modified on these 2 electric's, with 7 spade connectors on each.
The rec/reg. both are located perfectly inside the frame tubes, and was a real chore removing each one from such a tight area, two hex head bolts retaining the Rec, and two Phillip head bolts on the Regulator. My guess is a factory install, as they attach so well, and connect into the harness like a glove? Hope I answered most of your questions, and that this info is of some help except for some photos. Sure can use some help on this Turkey of mine?
Thanks,
back shift
 
Sounds like a garden variety US XS650J (Heritage) to me. So, it should have a combo solid state regulator/rectifier that is Type A: ground regulating (on the green brush wire, brown brush wire is switched 12VDC)

Please post pics of the stator housing with brush block and a pic of your component you believe is the reg/rec
 
Last edited:
Yes, you need to show us pics, because you don't know what you're looking at and neither do we, lol. A separate regulator would only have 3 wires running to it, a separate rectifier would have 5 wires. Neither of the 7 wire components you mentioned are these items. One is most likely a combined regulator/rectifier. They have 7 wires. Stock, it mounts to the back side of the main frame downtube, behind the engine.
 
Hi 5twins,
I finally got back to you on photos, etc. I guess I was in over my head by requesting Reg/rect. info and help for my bike. I have discovered that I should be asking about an ignition unit. (ignitor). I have been been having quite a time getting the two upside down allen mounting screws loose, under the battery tray area. The old acid leakage has played hell with one screw. Access is tough, as much as I hate to, I have to do some grinding with my Dremel tool for removal, in the meantime the plastic cover has decided to let loose, and fall off, and let me know what the hell this upside down black 7 wire box really did look like, to my surprise? I have been chasing info on the forum, and never was able to find any info, or even a photo of what it is that I have for the charge system. Guess I did not look in all the right places? I today looked around on ebay by part # by description too. These are not much listed? One did come I finally got back to you on photos, etc. I guess I was in over my head by requesting Reg/rect. info and help for my bike. I have discovered that I should be asking about an ignition unit. (ignitor). I have been been having quite a time getting the two upside down allen mounting screws loose, under the battery tray area. The old acid leakage has played hell with one screw. Access is tough, as much as I hate to, I have to do some grinding with my Dremel tool for removal, in the meantime the plastic cover has decided to let loose, and fall off, and let me know what the hell this upside down black 7 wire box really did look like, to my surprise? I have been chasing info on the forum, and never was able to find any info, or even a photo of what it is that I have for the charge system. Guess I did not look in all the right places? I today looked around on ebay by part # by description too. These are not much listed? One did come up in my search, used for 280 bucks, that seller must be a dreamer? Tomorrow I will finish removing the ignition unit box, and hope you can help me out, on testing the condition of it for good, bad or ugly? up in my search, used for 280 bucks, that seller must be a dreamer? Tomorrow I will finish removing the ignition unit box, and hope you can help me out, on testing the condition of it for good, bad or ugly?

ignition unit
Type TID12-03
5V4-10
Hitachi, Japan
Thanks again,
back shift

YAMAHA - XS650 (1).JPG
YAMAHA - XS650 (2).JPG
 
Not read through --Looks as To much grease in the connector only a little on the pins.If the grease conducts there is a possibility shorting out at the base of the pins
 
BACK SHIFT said:
Hi 5twins,
I finally got back to you on photos, etc. I guess I was in over my head by requesting Reg/rect. info and help for my bike. I have discovered that I should be asking about an ignition unit. (ignitor). I have been been having quite a time getting the two upside down allen mounting screws loose, under the battery tray area. The old acid leakage has played hell with one screw. Access is tough, as much as I hate to, I have to do some grinding with my Dremel tool for removal, in the meantime the plastic cover has decided to let loose, and fall off, and let me know what the hell this upside down black 7 wire box really did look like, to my surprise? I have been chasing info on the forum, and never was able to find any info, or even a photo of what it is that I have for the charge system. Guess I did not look in all the right places? I today looked around on ebay by part # by description too. These are not much listed? One did come I finally got back to you on photos, etc. I guess I was in over my head by requesting Reg/rect. info and help for my bike. I have discovered that I should be asking about an ignition unit. (ignitor). I have been been having quite a time getting the two upside down allen mounting screws loose, under the battery tray area. The old acid leakage has played hell with one screw. Access is tough, as much as I hate to, I have to do some grinding with my Dremel tool for removal, in the meantime the plastic cover has decided to let loose, and fall off, and let me know what the hell this upside down black 7 wire box really did look like, to my surprise? I have been chasing info on the forum, and never was able to find any info, or even a photo of what it is that I have for the charge system. Guess I did not look in all the right places? I today looked around on ebay by part # by description too. These are not much listed? One did come up in my search, used for 280 bucks, that seller must be a dreamer? Tomorrow I will finish removing the ignition unit box, and hope you can help me out, on testing the condition of it for good, bad or ugly? up in my search, used for 280 bucks, that seller must be a dreamer? Tomorrow I will finish removing the ignition unit box, and hope you can help me out, on testing the condition of it for good, bad or ugly?

ignition unit
Type TID12-03
5V4-10
Hitachi, Japan
Thanks again,
back shift

View attachment 243136View attachment 243137
Click to expand...
It's hard to decipher what info you seek, partly because you now have 3 different threads going on your electrical issue and perhaps not asking the right questions to diagnose the issue. Still looking for the pic of the stator housing with brush block to confirm your system type. I'll try again........

The pic above includes the solid state regulator/rectifier on the right. It is both components in one unit - there is no separate regulator on your bike.

The item on the left is the cover for the TCI Igniter unit. That unit has nothing to do with the charging system and will not produce a dead battery while riding. The going price for a used one is ~$400. I recommend not messing with it until the charging issue is resolved and you have a spark/ignition issue while having a known good battery/charging system. There are no tests for the TCI igniter unit itself, it is diagnosed by eliminating everything else in the ignition system.

If you want to diagnose your charging system, you'll need a multimeter and and a fully charged battery (12.8+VDC) - we start with measuring DC voltage at the battery while running. Post back when you're ready to do that
 
Last edited:
New battery installed
Engine does start and seems to run just fine
Alt. brush's are 0k in length
the turn signals decided to not flash?
Alternator does not show any charge
Thanks once again,
back shift
 
BACK SHIFT said:
New battery installed
Engine does start and seems to run just fine
Alt. brush's are 0k in length
the turn signals decided to not flash?
Alternator does not show any charge
Thanks once again,
back shift
Click to expand...
That's a good start.
A the engine runs, SO put the square plastic cover back on the "black box" put the screw you removed back in (bonus points if you replace the #3 phillips head screw with an allen head) and leave that dog lie!
Brushes OK in length??? If they are anywhere near the little wear line, REPLACE them. BUT really look at and follow the how-tos, routing the little braided wires is trickier than you might think.
What Jim said too.
 
Hi Again,
I Have to say in my issues, the head light did come on with the key on and engine not running, at times? (intermittent)
I have been checking the voltage at the battery with a a VOM engine at idle and engine revved up both, voltage stays at battery spec. 12V.
I think perhaps I have been pissin in the wind, today I bought a new VOM and have the brush's totally off the rotor, and the rotor OHMS are only reading maybe 1.5 at best? I did toss the older meter in the trash for sure. I feel like a worm for bothering all you guys that have helped me out so much with this Rice Burner charging problem. I will get with Jim about buying one of his good rewound rotors ASAP. For now I can only hope the new rotor is my charge problem?
Many Thanks
back shift
 
Sounds like it. Checking the rotor should be one of your first steps, after checking brush length. And yes, it's easiest and best to measure between the rotor slip rings with the alternator pulled off .....

Slip Ring Cleaning.jpg


Unfortunately, the rotor is a very common failure item when charging stops. Yes, there can be other reasons but the rotor is one of the 1st things you check. Mine went bad on my '78 but I was clued in to a charging problem occurring by my voltmeter so I didn't end up stranded miles from home with a dead battery, lol.
 
BACK SHIFT said:
Hi Again,
I Have to say in my issues, the head light did come on with the key on and engine not running, at times? (intermittent)
I have been checking the voltage at the battery with a a VOM engine at idle and engine revved up both, voltage stays at battery spec. 12V.
I think perhaps I have been pissin in the wind, today I bought a new VOM and have the brush's totally off the rotor, and the rotor OHMS are only reading maybe 1.5 at best? I did toss the older meter in the trash for sure. I feel like a worm for bothering all you guys that have helped me out so much with this Rice Burner charging problem. I will get with Jim about buying one of his good rewound rotors ASAP. For now I can only hope the new rotor is my charge problem?
Many Thanks
back shift
Click to expand...
I have a rotor puller you can use. Send me a PM and we'll get the ball rolling.
 

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