Removing dents from early tank ?

Grewth

XS650 Addict
Messages
364
Reaction score
587
Points
93
Location
UK
I've recently aquired this rather battered XS2 tank.
One lug that locates the filler cap catch is broken off, I'm working on a fix for that.
The RH side of the tank is in really good shape, but the LH side has several dents, not too bad, but of course they're right on the badge recess area, making repairs awkward.
The photos really don't do it justice, my first thought was to just farm it out to a dent fixing "expert".
But now I'm having ideas about fixing it myself.
Well the worst of it anyway.
I've previously tried inserting cranked arms through the filler neck to work as a dolly to beat against.
It sounds fine in theory, but seems difficult in practice, as you have to try and guess just where the dolly is.
Frequently it isn't quite where you think it is.
So now I'm thinking maybe pull the dents out using tags and a slide hammer.
I've very little experience of this, so results could be potentially disasterous.
And sensible suggestions welcomed thank you.
 

Attachments

  • 20220824_180742.jpg
    20220824_180742.jpg
    108.1 KB · Views: 71
  • 20220824_180827.jpg
    20220824_180827.jpg
    84.2 KB · Views: 73
  • 20220824_180834.jpg
    20220824_180834.jpg
    106.9 KB · Views: 72
  • 20220824_181131.jpg
    20220824_181131.jpg
    151.5 KB · Views: 88
What ever system you use you will still have to use bog, dent bashing will never get it totally straight. So you might as well just bog it in the first place. It's no more difficult bogging a big dent as it is a small dent.
 
I recommend a PDR (Paintless dent removal tool) It applies constant even pressure as apposed to banging away with a slide hammer. @Jim & @Mailman both had posts on fixing cap lugs.
 
Last edited:
I recommend a PDR (Paintless dent removal tool) It applies constant even pressure as apposed to banging away with a slide hammer. @Jim had a really good post about fixing the cap lugs on @Mailman 's tank.
I've just been looking at PDR systems.
Seems to use glued tabs made from plastic.
Advice seems to be that it's alright for pulling mild dents in big panels (ie car door skins) but it won't generate enough force for sharp dents (I presume you can only get so much pull on the tabs before the glue lets go)
Might be OK for the larger dent to the rear of the tank badge recess maybe ?
The kit seems cheap enough to make doing some experimentation worthwhile.
It's the badge recess area that I really want to pull outwards.
Realistically, I'm going to end up with some filler on the tank, but I'd like to keep it to a minimum if possible.
I'd like my tank badges to be attached to the original metal strips with the correct screws if at all posible, not screwed to filler with a couple of self tappers
 
Solder for dent removal! Why haven't I been messing with that?
yeah paintless.
Would love to get this dent "reduced" without wrecking the paint.
 

Attachments

  • KIMG1974.JPG
    KIMG1974.JPG
    244.8 KB · Views: 67
In my limited attempts to use the Harbor Freight dent puller, I have noted that the sheet metal used on these XS tanks is quite stout. I've had limited success on pulling some dents in the larger flat areas, but not so much in the more curved part of the tanks. Also note that my attempts were only external. I did not have a push lever helping from the interior like the PDR guys use.
 
So it seems that glued on tabs only have limited success where the force required isn't too great.
I do have access to oxy-fuel gas welding equipment at work.
Soldered or even brazed on tabs might shift dents that glued on tabs won't

It's occurred to me that I've got a couple of mangled 650 Special tanks that I could practice on before attacking that XS2 tank.
 
As rare as those early tanks are getting, I would say practicing on those special tanks would be a great idea.
 
My view on this is some things are best left to the professionals. I’ve tried fixing dents myself and made a bigger mess to fix afterwards. I’d at least get an estimate and see what they’d charge. If you’re going to use bondo anyway, the cost of removing “most” of the dents may not be too bad.

But that’s just me.….
 
Gas cap flange repair at the beginning of this article. Note: this worked for me, I cannot attest to success rate for others.

https://www.xs650.com/threads/mailmans-xs2-the-rebuild-again.59075/
Is that flange / tab steel or aluminum? With a good cleaning and sufficient JB weld, the repair made should hold. I would have been tempted to drill a small hole in the broken tab and tank flange and insert a small roll pin for extra support. I trust the repair held up well.
 
Is that flange / tab steel or aluminum? With a good cleaning and sufficient JB weld, the repair made should hold. I would have been tempted to drill a small hole in the broken tab and tank flange and insert a small roll pin for extra support. I trust the repair held up well.
Aluminum oxide starts to form almost immediately on fresh aluminum. The key is to scrub the hell out of it with a ss wire brush "immediately" prior to the J B Weld to remove that oxide.
Yes, makes for a very strong bond...

EDIT: Yes, the tab's aluminum.


1661449808692.png


1661449829067.png
 
Is that flange / tab steel or aluminum? With a good cleaning and sufficient JB weld, the repair made should hold. I would have been tempted to drill a small hole in the broken tab and tank flange and insert a small roll pin for extra support. I trust the repair held up well.

It’s my understanding that it is some sort of aluminum alloy. I had thought about the drilled pin reinforcement also, but the way I prepped it was to bevel all edges of the broken piece, even the bottom and I also applied JB Weld at the end of that little broken off piece so that , that one little broken off piece was epoxied in place all the way around. And yes it did hold up well, I had a high degree of confidence in the repair.
 
It’s my understanding that it is some sort of aluminum alloy. I had thought about the drilled pin reinforcement also, but the way I prepped it was to bevel all edges of the broken piece, even the bottom and I also applied JB Weld at the end of that little broken off piece so that , that one little broken off piece was epoxied in place all the way around. And yes it did hold up well, I had a high degree of confidence in the repair.
One big problem is that I don't have the piece that was broken off.
So I'd have to find a suitable piece of donor material, then bond that onto the tank.
I'm actually planning my own fixing sysyem, but I'm not sure if it will work yet.
So I don't want to elaborate on my plans just yet, because I might just end up with egg on my face.
At least I've got another near perfect tank to take dimensions from
 
In my limited attempts to use the Harbor Freight dent puller, I have noted that the sheet metal used on these XS tanks is quite stout. I've had limited success on pulling some dents in the larger flat areas, but not so much in the more curved part of the tanks. Also note that my attempts were only external. I did not have a push lever helping from the interior like the PDR guys use.
The Harbor Freight tool worked on pulling paint off a Honda's tank but the dent didn't budge
But now I have a hot glue gun which I've used elsewhere
 
I got bids of $300 and $400 from PDR franchises to fix this dent on Patience. I‘m using the bike for a class this weekend but will be dropping it off next week. I’ll post pics when I get it back. View attachment 223032

If you haven’t already seen them , there are some amazing videos of the process on YouTube. Your tank looks like a perfect candidate for it, it’s a nice roundish shallow dent as opposed to a sharp crease, and the paint is un damaged. I’ve seen them repair spots like that to be invisible. Amazing….please post follow up before and after photos!
 
Back
Top