Replacing Rotors with XS1100 sloted rotors

a 5mm rotor spacer is easy, then you can bolt on a later XS11 special rotor.
82 hs 002.JPG

or even better, with a little finagle, a later model sport bike rotor at less than half the weight.
FJ600 front rotor.jpg

for 75 in Fla
Search with rotor part number 351 25831 and you will find the rotor was used on the XS500 RD350 and RD400. There's a bunch for sale on ebay right now.
But FIRST I'd remove your rotor from the wheel and check for any dirt or other irregularity that might be cocking it on the mounting flange.
image-0002_zpsdtilcmxj.jpg
 
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a 5mm rotor spacer is easy, then you can bolt on a later XS11 special rotor.
View attachment 325952
or even better, with a little finagle, a later model sport bike rotor at less than half the weight.
View attachment 325953

for 75 in Fla
Search with rotor part number 351 25831 and you will find the rotor was used on the XS500 RD350 and RD400. There's a bunch for sale on ebay right now.
But FIRST I'd remove your rotor from the wheel and check for any dirt or other irregularity that might be cocking it on the mounting flange.
View attachment 325951
Thanks so much!! On the right is the EXACT rear rotor that is on bike now and what im looking for! The bracket on the front rotor that is on bike now is this here pictured on the left…slight cosmetic difference in the shape of the “holes”, thats about it.
 

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Usually if a rotor is warped it's because it was always dragging on a pad while riding. The uneven and constant heat cool cycles warp it.
The rotor on the left in your pics above LOOKS warped, you can see wavy bands in the metal. Sometimes the metal will have bluing from the heat like an exhaust pipe.
Do a full rebuild on the rear brakes, caliper and master cylinder or you'll warp the next rotor too.
 
Usually if a rotor is warped it's because it was always dragging on a pad while riding. The uneven and constant heat cool cycles warp it.
The rotor on the left in your pics above LOOKS warped, you can see wavy bands in the metal. Sometimes the metal will have bluing from the heat like an exhaust pipe.
Do a full rebuild on the rear brakes, caliper and master cylinder or you'll warp the next rotor too.
Thanks.
The one on the left is just a spare, it’s not on the bike, but I hear you on everything else 👍🏻
 
Usually if a rotor is warped it's because it was always dragging on a pad while riding. The uneven and constant heat cool cycles warp it.
The rotor on the left in your pics above LOOKS warped, you can see wavy bands in the metal. Sometimes the metal will have bluing from the heat like an exhaust pipe.
Do a full rebuild on the rear brakes, caliper and master cylinder or you'll warp the next rotor too.
I also forgot to tell you, I searched that part number and I located several discs just like you said last night so I appreciate it… that’s exactly what I’m looking for regarding the rear.
 
Usually if a rotor is warped it's because it was always dragging on a pad while riding. The uneven and constant heat cool cycles warp it.
The rotor on the left in your pics above LOOKS warped, you can see wavy bands in the metal. Sometimes the metal will have bluing from the heat like an exhaust pipe.
Do a full rebuild on the rear brakes, caliper and master cylinder or you'll warp the next rotor too.
I've always suspected that warpage is also caused by driver behaviour - the habit of sitting with their foot on the pedal after doing some hard braking, and pulling up to a stop light or junction. Of course, randomising it works out, but eventually the odds rise in favour of a warp. Exactly the same thing happens with riders, who have no parking brake to apply.
 
I learned a long time ago to not stay in one place after hard braking. Moving the vehicle slowly and spreading the brake pad heat onto the rotor(s) evenly helps prevent warping.
 
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