What you’re doing is stuff that should be done anyway which is great, but I’m just wondering why you are so scared of that ignition switch?
-
Enjoy XS650.com? Consider making a donation to help support the site.
XS650.com receives a small share of sales from some links on this page, but direct donations have a much greater impact on keeping this site going.
Rewound Alternator Rotor gouges, trouble shooting charging system.
- Thread starter 75XSFLORIDA
- Start date
- Status
An error in your thinking is that a dirty switch will have the same resistance every time you cycle the switch, it won't.
75XSFLORIDA
XS650 Addict
Well I’ve been testing the drop at the switch for about an hour several different times. Recharged the battery, tested it again, rode the bike, came home tested again. Etc. It remains consistent at 0.16v…cleaned up the choc brown connectors, including the black one thats in the choc brown assembly (or whatever its called)…all shiny brass and i guess some are zinc. Ever since that cleanup its at 0.16. Just went in garage and tested again. Same result
Let it sit a few days or a week, check again.
Who hasn't flicked a switch a bunch of times to "make it work again"?
Who hasn't flicked a switch a bunch of times to "make it work again"?
75XSFLORIDA
XS650 Addict
I believe ya …..still big improvement from yesterday at switch, 0.29 to 0.16….and brown wire now 0.26 from 0.59 yesterday. Here is today
Attachments
LTGTR
XS650 Addict
75xsflorida
Why not just measure the actual voltage drop accross the ignition switch.
With ignition turned on put your voltmeter leads accross the terminals of the ignition switch - you will measure the actual voltage drop accross that component i.e. the amount of voltage used up to push the current accross a resistance - E.G you wont measure 12.3 volts - you will measure .27 volts (say) because you are measuring directly the potential difference between the 2 points. You can use this method to measure the voltage drop accross any component directly.
Remember - there must be a current flow - i.e. have the component turned on.
Regards - Ray.
Why not just measure the actual voltage drop accross the ignition switch.
With ignition turned on put your voltmeter leads accross the terminals of the ignition switch - you will measure the actual voltage drop accross that component i.e. the amount of voltage used up to push the current accross a resistance - E.G you wont measure 12.3 volts - you will measure .27 volts (say) because you are measuring directly the potential difference between the 2 points. You can use this method to measure the voltage drop accross any component directly.
Remember - there must be a current flow - i.e. have the component turned on.
Regards - Ray.
75XSFLORIDA
XS650 Addict
Thats been done I believe with this test pictured. Your late to the thread bud!! Read ALL the pages. Lol See pic attached. 0.16v at the switch with probe on red wire and other probe on brown switch wire with key ON.
Attachments
Finally got all the posts moved over to 75's very own thread, one simple charging system issue. Over 500 posts and still going. 
75XSFLORIDA
XS650 Addict
Finally got all the posts moved over to 75's very own thread, one simple charging system issue. Over 500 posts and still going.
I feel special man!! Shit, who has their VERY OWN thread!!
#accomplishments
LTGTR
XS650 Addict
75XSFLORIDA,
Sorry about that - I mistakenly looked at post #525 and seen the two 12 volt readings on the voltmeter and thought I could save you a bit of time by suggesting you only need to take one reading to read voltage drop. This was obviously the wrong application for that technique.
I will be more careful in future.
Regards - Ray.
Sorry about that - I mistakenly looked at post #525 and seen the two 12 volt readings on the voltmeter and thought I could save you a bit of time by suggesting you only need to take one reading to read voltage drop. This was obviously the wrong application for that technique.
I will be more careful in future.
Regards - Ray.
I dont think you need to be to Humble we are at post #530 and the first recommendation ( Usually is ) to test the Rotor Resistance
and it has been recommended at least 3 times --from 3 different persons 2 extremely competent dump that shit mechanical regulator and rectifier .
Lets see if we hit 4 digits posts -- Before the next rotor fries. Without OP reading the Manual for the Voltmeter or the Tech Section.
So this is not a fault finding fault correcting event .. It is something else.
Fine by me But I think it is a bit strange asking for help and then systematically refuse to listen Cant remember I have seen that before in my life.
But another day another lesson learned. People act differently in this world.. And there are freshly rewound Rotors out there to by $ 100 a pop.
And Towing companies that needs to live.
75XSFLORIDA
XS650 Addict
Im a bit confused. Are you saying i did the test incorrectly??
I believe he’s saying this has been an exceptional adventure.
75XSFLORIDA
XS650 Addict
I don’t think that’s the case but OK
75XSFLORIDA
XS650 Addict
Blah blah blahhhh!! Not trying to really hear your dumb shit quite honestly. I did test the rotor day one and it was completely open. And who refused to listen? What the hell are you talking about. I’ve taken everybody’s advice and done everything everybody has said. I don’t give a shit if it takes 1000 posts for me to understand electricity. Get off the page if you don’t want to read it. Go find something else to do man!
Somewhere in here there's middle ground.
Or mebby just quicksand, dunno.
What we need now is for the ole grizzly bear to step in and smooth things over.
Or mebby just quicksand, dunno.
What we need now is for the ole grizzly bear to step in and smooth things over.
75XSFLORIDA
XS650 Addict
No, it’s just I don’t have time for ridiculous comments. You have helped me out tremendously and it’s very very very much appreciated. Others have helped out tremendously as well. For somebody super new to electricity who didn’t understand shit from day one I feel there has been progress. So I’m not trying to really hear what that guy has to say!
Nope. Day one it was ohming out just fine.
No you haven't. Go back to page 13. I said exactly the same thing Jan just said.... only he said it better.
13 fuckin' pages of trying to get you actually read and follow some basic troubleshooting... and all you wanted to do the whole time was be contrary, snarky to those trying to help... and just generally shooting yourself in the foot.
Again, had you stated on day one the rotor was open, we could have done much better here. You didn't. As the saying goes... garbage in/garbage out.
75XSFLORIDA
XS650 Addict
Nope. Day one it was ohming out just fine.
View attachment 239382
No you haven't. Go back to page 13. I said exactly the same thing Jan just said.... only he said it better.
13 fuckin' pages of trying to get you actually read and follow some basic troubleshooting... and all you wanted to do the whole time was be contrary, snarky to those trying to help... and just generally shooting yourself in the foot.
Again, had you stated on day one the rotor was open, we could have done much better here. You didn't. As the saying goes... garbage in/garbage out.
View attachment 239383
OK that’s true. It was fine day one. I don’t remember man. So much back-and-forth over the past two weeks but who cares. Either way it’s done and everything is fixed. And I learned a lot. So smart ass comments I don’t really need them. They do nothing for me man!! People don’t have positive shit to say, get the fuck off the page, it’s that simple
- Status
