Kansas City, Mo.
Whew.... glad this showed up. Was jus' sittin' around bored to tears 'cause I got nuttin to do. :er:
I really need to find me a hobby. :rolleyes:

I'm hanging out my shingle....
Band of Brothers Rewinding Service is open for business (thanks Bob:D)
You can read here all the work that went into getting to this point.

Send me your rotor. If it's a serviceable core, I'll rewind it with TEMCo MW0181 22 ga. wire. Run-out will be tested before and after rewind and the rotor will be static re-balanced. It's reassembled with new stainless screws, or brass, loctited in. The coil is epoxied in place with hi-temp JB Weld. Yamaha calls for 5.25 Ω +/- 10%.... So... 4.725 to 5.775 Ω. Your rotor will fall within that range. I'm getting 4.75 to 5.2 Ω on my rewinds with a nice strong magnetic pull.

Here's what it costs... $105 and $10 to ship it back to you.
EDIT 5/4/24: If I have to replace the TCI magnet or add it to an old style rotor, it's an extra $15. (end edit)
That's about 1/2 to 2/3 of the going rate for a rewind. Here's why.... first, I'm retired. I ain't doin' this to make a living. This gives me a little spending money while giving something of value back to this community.
Second... I'm retired (did I mention that...:rolleyes:), I don't do anything in a rush anymore. If you're in a hurry, better go to an alternator shop... I'll be 'bout a week or two.
Third, a shop that does this for a living can afford to absorb the loss of redoing your rotor for free if you burn up the rewind.... I can't. My guarantee is that when I ship it, it's passed my run-out test, it's balanced and it puts out a magnetic field that will snatch a large combination wrench out of your hand. Hell, I'll even send you a video of it. What I won't do is rewind it again on the house because you installed it in a faulty charging system and promptly burnt it up again.
So... if you're running an old weak battery that burnt up you first rotor... it'll burn this one up too.
If you're running the original antique mechanical regulator that's stuck at full charge and burnt up you original rotor.... it'll burn this one up too. If the iggy switch has a large voltage drop across it.... well, you get the point (I hope). I'll reserve a few comments below and add some useful links and stuff to check before you replace the rotor.
One last thing, I'm not rewinding aftermarket rotors... OEM Yamaha's only. If you're not sure, PM me with a few pics and we'll sort it out. If you send me a repop, it's going in the trash.. and you're out the shipping. If it turns out your rotor is not rebuildable (rare, but it does happen), I'll split the cost to ship it back if you want it.
This is on a first come, first serve basis. PM me and we'll go from there.

Periodically I'll put a rotor up here for sale outright. They'll be $130. If you send me a rebuildable core, I'll refund a $25 core charge back to you.

Question: Which rotor can I use on my bike? OK.... here's an easy way to remember it (for everyone... I get lots of PM's asking this)....
If you're running Yamaha's original Transistor Controlled Ignition (TCI) system, you have to use an 80 or newer rotor with the trigger magnet. Other than that, any year bike can use any year rotor... be it the old or new style. Original points, Pamco... HHB, Boyer.... rolled your own from your Briggs and Stratton lawn mower:rolleyes:.... doesn't matter... ANY ROTOR will work. Yamaha TCI? You have to have the rotor with the magnet.

PLEASE READ THIS!! Mikes XS sells a rotor puller for a very reasonable price. Amazon also carries 'em. Get one! I'm up to 3 cores now that failed the run-out tests. All 3 showed signs of being pulled off the crank with a 3 or 4 jaw puller... that or some pry-bars.:doh: They're bent.... well past the point of being usable. Send me a core with "pry-bar" marks on it and it's going in the trash. (Edited: 5/11/19)
Because of gggGary's generosity, we now have a loaner puller. Send me a $20 deposit via Paypal and I'll send it to you to pull your old rotor. When I get it back (still serviceable), I'll refund it. (Edited: 1/1/2021)

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I'm now set up to rewind the Honda DOHC CB750, 900's and 1000's from 79 to 83. Cost is the same as the XS rotors. If you know of a Honda guy in need, point 'em this way. :D

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EDIT: 1/16/21
Due to a recent misunderstanding :rolleyes:.... I need to reiterate that these are 40+ yr old rotors that have been rewound. If you're expecting to get a rotor that looks brand new, go look somewhere else... these ain't them. The slip rings have accumulated some dings over the years. I dress them down flush so they don't interfere with the brushes, but you can't just make 'em disappear. They are flush though... they won't hurt a thing. If you don't like that, don't buy one... simple as that.

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If you're not a member here, you can contact me at airframedent@gmail.com
I'll also recommend you become a member. Nowhere in the world will you find the knowledge and support you'll find here.

Normal payment is via PayPal. Either select "sending to friends or family"... or add 3% to your total to cover what PayPal takes from my end. I'll also take a personal check, just get with in the PM if you want to go that route.

Jusy had my rotor rewound by Jim, and it looks brand new! Very impressed but the quality of his work, reasonable price, and fast turn-around. I recommend him.
Today I installed the rotor I sent to Jim to rewind. I was only outputting 12.8 or 12.9 VDC at like 4000 rpm, and when I checked the resistance across the slip rings, I got about 4 ohms, well below the minimum or 4.7 ohms.

Off she went to the midwest to have the surgery done that Jim is famous for. When it came back, I was off on my yearly "drive across the US" vacation, so today was the first chance I had at getting my beloved SG back together. The slip rings measured 4.8 ohms, and when I fired her up, I had 14.4 VDC going to the battery at 3000 rpm. Nice!

I didn't take any pics, but mine looked just like the above, except mine has the trigger magnet for the TCI coil. Seems a shame to bury that beautiful piece of work under the stator cage and then under the round cover on the left side case.
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