Right carb is sucking and producing no power

Perhaps we skipped a step between now and mid-July (and started checking voltage); did we ever verify that points were opening and closing continuity to ground (esp. RH) and verify timing?
I guess one could consider an ignition circuit as 3 resistors in series. The first one being from battery + to coil+, including fuses, wiring, switches and connectors. The total resistance should be very low, approaching zero ohm.
Next resistor is coil+ to coil-. Should be around 4 ohm on a stock points coil.
Last resistor would be coil- to ground (battery -), including connectors, points and ground connection between engine and frame/ battery -. This should also be as low as possible, when points are closed. If using the ohm setting to check this, disconnect the capacitor (condenser) !
 
Have you checked the float level on the RH carb? I just went through hell due to a sunken float on a mikuni. It was running fine and then it wasn’t.
 
Have you checked the float level on the RH carb? I just went through hell due to a sunken float on a mikuni. It was running fine and then it wasn’t.
I was out on a ride and everything was fine until I started losing power
The OP described "started losing power" while riding - could be a bad float - but my money's on RH ignition losing spark or a really tight valve not sealing. Trying to check in logical order.....
 
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