Right side switch problems, repair or replace?

Might be worth casting around for another switch to cannibalise for parts.
Quite a few different Yamaha models from that era had the same basic switch body, although the wiring was different.
All the XS250's and 400's had the same switch as well as the generally unloved XS750
Thanks. Good to know. So far, apart from the rusty, broken springs in the kill switch, everything is recoverable. I have ordered some 3mm OD x 10mm long springs off eBay. I actually think 1/8" OD x 3/8" long would be a better choice but I can't find any. Given that all the springs do is push copper contacts together, I think what I have ordered will be OK. Fingers crossed.

I'm very grateful to the forum, yet again, for such amazing information.
 
When you clean up the housing, make sure you clean up that little clip that holds the wiring into it. Up until the last couple model years, the right switch housing didn't have it's own ground wire. Instead, it pulled it's ground (for the start button) through the handlebars from the left switch. The left switch did have a dedicated ground wire run into the headlight bucket. It's wire harness retaining clip transferred that ground into the handlebars and the similar clip on the right housing picked it up.

SwitchGround2.jpg


This is why the starter stops working if you install painted handlebars and fail to clean the paint off them where these wire clips make contact, lol.
 
When you clean up the housing, make sure you clean up that little clip that holds the wiring into it. Up until the last couple model years, the right switch housing didn't have it's own ground wire. Instead, it pulled it's ground (for the start button) through the handlebars from the left switch. The left switch did have a dedicated ground wire run into the headlight bucket. It's wire harness retaining clip transferred that ground into the handlebars and the similar clip on the right housing picked it up.

View attachment 326223

This is why the starter stops working if you install painted handlebars and fail to clean the paint off them where these wire clips make contact, lol.
A timely prompt. The original bars on mine are quite battered and I have a set of Renthal Superbike high bars laying on a shelf. They come with a thick black powder coat..... :thumbsup:
 
I removed my killswitch many years ago and joined the wires inside Dont have it
After it left me stranded on evening out on a petrol station.

But looking at it there seems to be 3 holes .2 for the wires and I suppose one for a screw from under.
But the rest I cannot remember Sorry
If one removes the kill switch does it fail the MOT (uk) test?
And who decided to put one on a motorcycle in the first place, when the key switch is readily available? There is no kill switch on a car! jay
 
If one removes the kill switch does it fail the MOT (uk) test?
And who decided to put one on a motorcycle in the first place, when the key switch is readily available? There is no kill switch on a car! jay
Without reading the published guidelines for MoT testers I can't say.

What I would say is that the general guideline is that if something is fitted, it must work. However, to know for sure the MoT tester's guidelines need reading. The bike is tax and MoT exempt so it's not really an issue.

However, by lunchtime today I'll have a fully functioning start button and as soon as the Chinesium springs arrive, the kill switch will work too.

To finish off my testing I'm going to temporarily short the kill switch.
 
If one removes the kill switch does it fail the MOT (uk) test?
And who decided to put one on a motorcycle in the first place, when the key switch is readily available? There is no kill switch on a car! jay
In an accident or a tip over, If the key falls out or breaks off how do you turn the bike off in an emergency????
 
So, both sides switchgear given a once over and lubrication with dielectric grease. The left side was just a bit dusty but clean. The right side is now fully working with the kill switch shorted until the springs arrive. Probably next week. Start button works great :thumbsup:
 
So, both sides switchgear given a once over and lubrication with dielectric grease. The left side was just a bit dusty but clean. The right side is now fully working with the kill switch shorted until the springs arrive. Probably next week. Start button works great :thumbsup:
just want to say, i measured 12volt on the red wire on the key switch. the wire to the kill switch is red/orange. there was a half volt drop caused by the kill switch. from that it goes brown on the coils. so, there was only 11.5volt on the coils (not running). Of course when the bike is running one has about 13volt on the battery regulated by the regulator. so on my bike that would be 12.5volt on the coil.
 
just want to say, i measured 12volt on the red wire on the key switch. the wire to the kill switch is red/orange. there was a half volt drop caused by the kill switch. from that it goes brown on the coils. so, there was only 11.5volt on the coils (not running). Of course when the bike is running one has about 13volt on the battery regulated by the regulator. so on my bike that would be 12.5volt on the coil.
On my bike, 77 XS650D, the feed into the kill switch is brown. And the power from the kill switch to the coils is red/white. I'm going to use the red/white to switch a relay to get battery voltage onto the coils. I have around 0.8v drop between the battery and the coils and I want to eliminate that. (Presently, the kill switch is temporarily shorted). Especially important when starting off the electric starter pulling the battery voltage down. For me that will be every start.

Hopefully, the hardware to install the ignition relay should be here tomorrow.
 
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