RPMs go high when clutch pulled in + Right cylinder runs colder than left

'll spray carb cleaner around the intake/carb when its running to try and see if there is a vacuum leak. Then maybe take carbs out and check the butterfly plates.
Did you do the check for air leaks? Does the throttle cable have some free-play and return to stop when released? Does the throttle shaft return to the idle stop screw?

The pilot jets may be a bit small, but IMO, you can't tune the carb until you fix exhaust leak, install the pipes, verify ign. timing and get a ball-park synch. on carbs. All is suspect ATM.

I realize you started in a hole with a bike previously fouled-up, but "one step at a time" is required - no skipping ahead will advance the cause
 
Did you do the check for air leaks? Does the throttle cable have some free-play and return to stop when released? Does the throttle shaft return to the idle stop screw?

The pilot jets may be a bit small, but IMO, you can't tune the carb until you fix exhaust leak, install the pipes, verify ign. timing and get a ball-park synch. on carbs. All is suspect ATM.

I realize you started in a hole with a bike previously fouled-up, but "one step at a time" is required - no skipping ahead will advance the cause
Alright. I'll make a checklist of things to do.
Throttle freeplay is ruled out, it has free play and returns easily when released

- Air leak check
- Exhaust leak is minimal now, I tightened the clamps and the rings are on the way
- Should I just buy two cone mufflers and attach them to the existing pipes? https://www.ebay.com/itm/264016575394
- Cam chain, valves, ignition adjustment
- Synching tomorrow morning
- Going to get UNI filters. Question about the smaller vent/intake above the carbs - what type of setup do people usually use when they remove the stock air filter? The previous owner created an odd tubing setup to put another pod filter but I am looking for an elegant solution. Any suggestions?
 
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Those mufflers look to be a great value, if they fit your style choice - look good.
The crankcase vent at top rear of head?; in the old days a tube was just routed down the backbone ahead of swingarm they have mini-filters nowadays (don't know if either meet any emission std). lol, I'm not admitting to any elegant solution.
Add valve clearance and cam chain tension to the list if not already done.
 
Many of us place a power brake check valve in the end of the breather line. This lets air and pressure out but nothing back in. Position it over your pod and any oil or oil mist that does come out will just get re-cycled back through the motor .....

Uni-Check Valve.jpg


Power Brake Check Valve.jpg


I don't know if I'd call it "elegant", but it works well and is about the best solution I've run across. I started out using a small K&N filter on the end of the breather hose. It was always wet and soaked with oil.
 
Regarding those mufflers.
The exhaust you are running now appears to be the Special exhaust - note the curve coming out of the head and sweeping back, telltale for the Special. Stock exhaust for either the Special or Standard are double walled. If you look you'll find an evaporation hole located on the back side of the header near where it exits the head. You're going to have to attach any new muffs to the inner pipe. There's an adapter available at your favorite auto parts supplier....... thinking its 1 3/8" ID X 1 1/2" OD. The 1 3/8" slides over the inner pipe, muffs fit over the 1 1/2" end of the adapter.
I'll note that when I've used stock headers in this fashion, I've cut them across to remove the factory muffler about an inch past the lower frame mounting tab.
 
There's a thread called " Cutting stock exhaust " that goes into detail. Member Pamcopete enters in at post #21 with some pics and such........if'n I could figure how to link it........
 
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