Seat Patching

[Wingedwheel]

Per @DogBunny post that is archived in tech. I was impressed how that worked out so I figured it was worth a shot. Taking care of small things on the ‘75. I still can’t ride so tuning before the sale will have to wait but this needed done. I started by making the graining pad per the post. then I filled a small void in the foam with a piece of foam backer rod cut to fit and kept in place with a couple drops of CA glue. I worked a piece of vinyl backed fabric under the cover and used the fabric adhesive to glue it all together. The only change I made was to use a couple pieces of packing tape instead of the closures DB used. I don’t know how neat he was with the adhesive but I use packing tape to cover any surfaces I’m glueing around and nothing sticks to it. Knowing my M.O. I would have glued the other strips to the seat lol.I just have to wait for everything to cure for the next step.

 

[DogBunny]

Looks good. You are doing everything right so far.
When you apply the Black RTV (or other compound), you DO NOT want to feather the compound edge. You want to apply it exactly where the cut/void is, and no where else. You don't want to turn a tiny cut area into a huge-looking repaired area.
Then evaluate after curing, and you will almost surely have to do at least one more application. Now is the time to carefully work on a conservative transition zone if you must.
Finally, depending on how picky you are, you will probably want to do touch-ups, applying the compound directly to tiny voids and pinholes using a very fine-tipped brush.
The SEM color coat is pretty essential in my opinion. But for your small cut, the spray-can nozzle pattern is too wide. Take a sheet of 8-1/2 X 11 printer paper, and cut a hole in it the shape of the cut. Hold it an inch away from the seat surface, the hole centered on the repair, aim directly at the hole, and give as short a blast as possible. This will result in feathered edge. The printer paper filters the big spray pattern down to a spray pattern size that suits your repair. Apply as little as possible. Try to get it right the first time. Make a couple practice blasts so you know where the spray can nozzle is pointing.

 

[Wingedwheel]

Thanks for the info DB. I was wondering about applying the black and how much to use.

 

[Wingedwheel]

I forgot to add yesterday that I just screwed some scrap wood together to hold the seat while I do the repair. So after cleaning the area well with Alcohol to remove any dirt or oil I cut the graining pad to fit the area and applied the RTV. Graining pad applied and just wait at least 24 hrs. This is a process that cannot be rushed. Every product I’ve used calls for a 24 hr cure.

 

[DogBunny]

What is your release agent?
Even with a release agent, inevitably some RTV will stick to the graining pad, and this causes pinholes.
This is an art, and you get better with practice. Your results may vary, but it will look a whole lot better than what you started with.

 

[Jim]

Graining pad applied and just wait at least 24 hrs.

Curious what you're using for a release agent?

 

[Wingedwheel]

I used Vaseline for my release agent. I didn’t slather it on just made sure I rubbed a nice thin coat in all the grain with my finger. It actually worked really well for the pad. We’ll see how it works for the RTV. Using DB’s advice I filled the seam to just barely over flush before applying the pad. Set a stainless hockey puck on it and taped in place. Tomorrow morning we’ll see if it’s a pass/fail/redo.

 

[Wingedwheel]

Well I’m gonna call that a win. I might spritz it with a little paint but I want to clean and wipe the seat down first to see how it looks. One thing I noticed is next time I’ll put some arrows on my graining pad to show grain orientation.

 

[DogBunny]

Nice!!!
The structural repair, made with the backing cloth and the vinyl cement, should be quite strong.
The aesthetic repair, made with the RTV, will be a bit weak where thin. If you scrub it, it may peel. The SEM will provide some protection.
If it was me, I'd fill in the tiny voids next to the piping. If you don't have one, buy a set of tiny cheapo artist's brushes from Hobby Lobby for $2 to fill in the voids with more RTV. A toothpick will be less facile, but will work too. I get really anal with these repairs, I never know when to stop improving them.
Quite nice as is if you are satisfied.

 

[Wingedwheel]

Thanks William. I actually did do a little fill along the piping after the pic was taken. This bike will be on the market once I can ride again and do a little tuning so I’m quite happy how that went. Now we’ll see how I can do with a tear on the top of my XS2 seat

 

[Wingedwheel]

When I mentioned cleaning I basically was talking about wiping it down with something like Armorall to blend all the areas. Normally I don’t like using that because all it does is turn the seat into a slip-n-slide but I think it will have enough time before I can ride it that it should be fine.

 

[DogBunny]

blend all the areas

This is another thing I like about the SEM. It's usually a pretty good match finish-wise with the existing surrounding vinyl.


I mentioned that I get pretty anal and don't know when to stop. I sometimes use these to match the shine of a repair to the surrounding area. One is quite matte, the other is very shiny, both are clear, you can mix the two together, you can thin them with water, water clean-up, and dries in minutes.

I use Armor-all, but other than the UV protection, it, and the competitors, are not really great products. Better are the products that contain beeswax and lanolin. Lots of leather, shoe, interior auto, and vinyl conditioners contain beeswax. You can find pure beeswax in the ethnic hair-care aisle.

On the other-hand, you can over-work a repair, and start making it more, not less, noticeable.

 

[Wingedwheel]

I mentioned that I get pretty anal and don't know when to stop.

That’s why I’m gonna stop where it’s at, mission accomplished.

 

[Wingedwheel]

I use Armor-all, but other than the UV protection, it, and the competitors, are not really great products. Better are the products that contain beeswax and lanolin. Lots of leather, shoe, interior auto, and vinyl conditioners contain beeswax. You can find pure beeswax in the ethnic hair-care aisle.

I guess the way I have to look at it is that’s it’s 50yo vinyl and I’m not gonna soften it but rather set myself up to be sitting on the tank if I have a hard stop lol

 

[gggGary]

Repaired about a 2" split on Madness' seat right under where my thigh rests Used the

Has little heated pad like a solder iron with penny weld on the tip.
After 800 miles of riding.