Just let me clarify something here - the spot where you set the points gap, where the points are open the most, won't line up with the "F" mark. It won't be anywhere near it, and it's not supposed to be. It's simply the spot where the points are open the most, and there's no mark to align with for it. The "F" mark (or "range" actually) is where the points just start to open and where they fire. They won't even look open at all at this spot, and you won't be able to see it (a gap) with the naked eye. This is why you need to hook up a small 12V light bulb to the points set for static timing, to "sense" the spot where the points open electronically. I use an old instrument bulb and socket with alligator clips on the ends of the wires. I made the wires long enough so the bulb hangs down right next to the timing marks on the alternator housing. That way I don't have to take my eyes off the marks as I rotate the crank to see when the bulb lights up, it's in my same field of view.