Sensible engine decision (now top end refresh)

With head work and rings, I didn’t expect it to be this hard to kick. This thing is tight! I also put oil in it and slathered everything on top with STP. Should it be like that?
Looked a bit stiff to me for a stock 650. How does it kick with the plugs out?
Thinking out loud here
Apologize if this is to Simple..perhaps something useful The kick resistance looks about right
for a tight engine. I jump upwards and on the way down kick it .
I had a friend trying to kick it he is over 200 pounds. He had problems.
There are like 2 positions the second one can be easier but mine prefers to start on the first.

Yes the valve play should be checked
I would try if it is possible to squirt in some oil at the top end at that time on relevant points.
I get the impression the ignition is a little off
can give the hard to start situation and noise
It would set it deliberately a little late at this point in time
The revving up at start can be the idle setting or the idle circuit
On my 80 there is an adjusting screw for idle that I would take all the way out
Are these starts with choke ?
I would consider if not already done take out the plugs and kick it around so oil gets distributed.
I would have oil in the cylinders doing this
Hoping piston pins get a little oil
I would do it and perhaps let it stand half a day and do it over .again
The same routine next day.
The priming kicks is perhaps not needed
Thinking out loud here I believe it needs oil at the top end rockers and so
Valve adjustment and a later ignition

But it is difficult to know ----If not getting better soon long shot ---->
??? Woodruff key for oilpump that one slipped out for me no 9 at assembly
But I noticed it. before cover on


Just putting this out here
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It runs!! Don't sweat the small stuff Marty:sneaky: A little oil works it's way around.... a little chain and tappet adjustment and she'll purr like a kitten. She does kick like a mule though. :rolleyes: Gotta love tight rings...

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Wouldnt it be easier to pull the clutch in ?
So i just learned that you dont pull in the clutch lever or else the engine isnt turing over..I always thought you could at least reposition the kicker to a more favorable position this way...Gues I'll shut up and learn....
Mine was the same way after my rebuild. This being my first twin, I thought you guys were f$#!ing crazy for trying to kick these after my first couple of attempts... 100 miles down the road I have pretty much stopped using the e start. Everything has loosed up and my 180lbs is plenty to get the job done.
Put the bike on the centerstand and stand on the pegs. The kicker will be much easier to operate this way. As your video shows, it's a real chore trying to use it standing on the ground with the bike on the sidestand. Also, I find the kicker on my '83 is not quite as easy to use compared to my '78. Yamaha redesigned the arm slightly, changing the bend a little and reducing the size of the rubber "foot".
It gets better. Some of that STP ends up in the combustion chamber increasing the CR even more. Add tight pistons etc it is hard the first few starts. On center stand is the only way to go. That's not a CB350 you built. Think it's bad trying to kick it you should try push starting it sometime. Nice to hear it run. Sounds stout.
For a cold start, I put mine on the centre stand and kick it while standing to the right of the bike. On the road it's easy to kick it from the side stand once it's been warmed up. I'm running starter delete, as it needed a rebuild, so no choice in the matter. Given that mine has an indicated 48K miles on it and has still got very high kickover compression, I've often wondered if a PO spent some coin on a larger bore kit, possibly with higher comp pistons.
At least one of the POs had spent serious money on other improvments back in the day, and fitting a 700 or 750 kit was almost de rigeur for one of these back then.
Guess the only way I'll find out for sure is when I eventually get around to stripping it to do the front camchain guide.
I have slathered every engine I've ever built with STP. It's designed to be mixed into the oil.It has been run now so any in the combustion chamber is long gone. After it has run for a hour or so it will be easier to start. If it is an option I would back the timing off a little until it has run for a couple hours to make easier to start.
OK, I fixed the noise. The valves were very loose. I thought I adjusted them after head torque. :shrug:
It sounds better. The base gasket is leaking. The oil pan too. :doh: I hope to fix at least some of it when I retorque the head.

I have to pull the carburetors. They ain't right. Also binding.
Yes Sir
You don't think the carburetors need a little time to settle. ???
I have a little start up problem every spring ..
And I assume there is new parts and o -rings in there not yet warmed up.
Yes Sir
You don't think the carburetors need a little time to settle. ???
I have a little start up problem every spring ..
And I assume there is new parts and o -rings in there not yet warmed up.

The issue is, I messed with them. Everything was OK until I broke the bolt on the sump. That led to all this.