Shift Cam Issue - Post Rebuild

Yes, the shifter is centred. I agree that it seems like a clutch issue, especially as I had the same issue when I rode it for 5 mins before taking the engine apart - I just can't really think of much else to adjust.

One thing is that I don't have the locking washer underneath the nut, I just have the conical spring washer. Maybe I'm putting that in the wrong way around? I'll have another look.

edit: ugh, yes I have the Belleville/conical spring washer the wrong way around... would that cause this whole issue? guess I'll see
 
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Can't see it would make any difference as you would compress it virtualy flat anyway. How about trying the old fiber plates, I know they're new but who knows if you still have them that is. I'm just about out of ideas, unless u swap it complete with a known good clutch.
 
Yeah didn’t make a difference. Yesterday I took the engine out because I want to double check the shifting anyway - will split the cases on the weekend.

I was just thinking - I replaced the Phillips head clutch spring screws with these and I wonder if the bolts are too long. I’ll check that.

It's also strange to me that the bike doesn’t lurch forward when put into first, it just dies. There’s no side stand switch or anything on the bike, it’s been rewired to kick only.
 
OK I'm not sure where Geoff gets his parts from, some have had problems with Mike's screws. They should leave some tell tale marks. maybe cut two threads off to be sure. Right keep us posted on what u find. Busy weekend ahead. Catch ya later.
 
Thanks guys. No need to split the cases, shifts fine on the bench. It’s definitely the clutch not disengaging.

Here are some photos of the clutch spring screws, the aftermarket ones are actually slightly shorter. They seem so similar in profile I’m not sure why this would create an issue. Any ideas?
 

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I have noticed that if you have different spring strenghts the pressure plate lifts of on a skew. By re arranging the spring positions I was able to get the plate to lift evenly.
Have you checked steels for warping?
Can you measure accuratetly the amount of travel you are getting at the mushroom pusher then read through and compare to the clutch section of 2M's to see how much is required.
 
I have noticed that if you have different spring strenghts the pressure plate lifts of on a skew. By re arranging the spring positions I was able to get the plate to lift evenly.
Have you checked steels for warping?
Can you measure accuratetly the amount of travel you are getting at the mushroom pusher then read through and compare to the clutch section of 2M's to see how much is required.
I'll have a look. I've tried two sets of springs but I can try a different order.

Do you mean the steel plates? They're new - I can try and fish out the old ones, give them another go
 
Give them a go, they don't wear much. Have a go at measuring the pusher travel 2ManyXSB's researched clutches to death. Hunt for his thread on this forum.
Thanks! Yes, I've been reading a bunch of that. I'm still kind of scratching my head - the bike doesn't lurch forward when put into first with the clutch in, it just dies. But then it does roll forward without any throttle which seems like the clutch is not disengaging. It runs fine if I give it throttle and then go into first (and don't stop), so I don't think I'm getting led astray by something that's actually electrical. It worked fine before I went into the clutch and replaced the shifter shaft, clutch spring screws and changed it to a single pushrod. I'll try and mod the old spring screws to fit the 40mm bolts, the heads are too worn to put back on. I have replaced the worm gear, but it ran fine with that before. I've also replaced the lever perch, but it looks exactly the same. I'm just trying to think through anything that's different because I'm kind of getting stuck. I'll measure the pushrod travel tomorrow when I get the motor back in the bike.
 
Is it possible there's just too much friction in the clutch even though it's disengaging properly. Most of the time people just change the fiber plates so maybe the combination of the finish on the new metal and fiber plates is causing the drag. You could try a bedding in process by setting it up to slip all the time and see if anything changes. Just go easy and dont burn it. At a loss as to what else to try. Good luck.
 
Ok, so I tried the old plates but the new plates seperate better so I'll keep those. I put in the old worm gear and it gets nearly 2mm of movement at the worm and the same at the clutch hub. It all seems to be separating fine now although I still can't kick the bike in first without the back wheel moving. Tried the old 2 piece pushrod too.

Without the clutch plates and springs on, if I move the hub in gear it will rotate the wheel. So it seems to be working properly when I put the plates and springs on. Am I missing something with the back wheel moving? I know you should be able to kick through in gear with the clutch in but it's working the same as if the clutch wasn't on.

I'm pretty confident the hub is doing what it's supposed to do, could it be something in the transmission? It's shifting fine and I've just rebuilt it. It's now working the same with the clutch lever pulled and with the plates and springs removed - in gear, the rear wheel moves and I can't push through while holding the rear wheel still.
 
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Here’s a video of what I’m talking about - this is what’s happening when the clutch cable is pulled too, which means you can’t kick through in gear. Is that normal? In gear, the shaft moves the rear wheel which means that I can't kick through without the rear wheel moving as the hub is always moving with the shaft. Without the clutch on I can push the bike in gear but not with the clutch on, I'll look into that part

EDIT: I can get the back wheel to move with the clutch in - in gears 2-5 but not in first, and it gets gradually harder to push, it should get easier right?

 
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It all looks normal to me. Because the Kickstart mech drives through, i think, the first gear pinion you HAVE to be in neutral for the Kickstart to work. Then if you pull the clutch in you break the drive from the Kickstarter to the crankshaft and the lever will just go down. The electric start, on the other hand goes through it's own train of gears straight onto the crankshaft. So operating the Kickstarter in gear with the clutch pulled in will only turn the back wheel. I would have to experiment with my own bike to be absolutly certain but im 98% sure it works that way. If i'm wrong someone will chime in. Catch Ya.
 
Yes thank you. Just put it all together, feel like I’m losing my mind, here’s another video. Same thing - I can ride it in first and move through the gears but if I idle in first it putters out, doesn’t lurch but just dies. And listen to the funny knocking sound - that’s when I pull in the clutch, I think I’ve just over adjusted it to try to get it to disengage though… I should test and see if I pull the clutch in 4th if it’ll idle. any ideas?

 
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It's very low frequency and i also think its the pressure plate catching the casing, almost sounds like a slapping chain except there are'nt any except the cam chain, but if it was that it would be there all the time. i'm afraid you;ll have to experiment a bit more.
 
Yeah I’ll play around with the adjustment and I think that’ll fix the knocking - there was a few marks on the case before I did this, so it’s happened at some point in the bikes life.

Does anyone know why - with the clutch in it’s easy to push in 5th gear but gets harder until it’s impossible to push in first? I think my issue is something to do with this
 
Yeah I’ll play around with the adjustment and I think that’ll fix the knocking - there was a few marks on the case before I did this, so it’s happened at some point in the bikes life.

Does anyone know why - with the clutch in it’s easy to push in 5th gear but gets harder until it’s impossible to push in first? I think my issue is something to do with this
All bikes do that. It's the gear ratios. Easiest to turn the motor from the back wheel is top gear. Hardest to turn the motor from the back wheel is bottom gear.
 
All bikes do that. It's the gear ratios. Easiest to turn the motor from the back wheel is top gear. Hardest to turn the motor from the back wheel is bottom gear.
Ok thank you, good to know!

Well I think the clutch is disconnecting enough in 5th, 4th, and 3rd, I can push it a little in second but not at all in first. I'll have another play with the adjuster, won't get to it in a few days. I could try ordering new stock spring screws to make it completely original, but I think the plates are moving enough which means the springs aren't binding or anything. I'll also see if I can idle in 3rd with the clutch pulled in.

Maybe it has something to do with the first gear - I've read some other threads where they experience clunking and slipping out of first. I don't have that but could be something there.
 
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