Shift Cam Issue - Post Rebuild

Not read through ..so apologize if this has been discussed
Firstly there are at least 3 different Clutch variants
And there is a lot of parts that needs to be assembled in the right order
Not all steel plates or friction plates are the same thickness
Needs to be inserted in the right order .. Not sure what year model
But the Clutch is a puzzle Mr 5 T uploaded a picture of the setup

I once bought at set friction plates on line and got the rubbing sound hitting the cover.
some sellers are selling parts for XS650 not realizing there are differences

When it comes top differences these can be found online in Parts lists.
I had three different trying to get one clutch updated Not all parts are interchangeable.

Then there is the adjustment of the star wheel and mechanism can be found in service manuals on line.
I am quick to replace springs once in there :maybe not necessary but I do it if not expensive springs

When it comes to adjusting the clutch itself I Use a hack method
I have it on the central stand .Running motor Pull in the Clutch put it in gear .
If clonking adjust
Let the clutch out Wheel spins Pull in the clutch try to stop the wheel with the foot against the tire side
Solid footwear
If not possible adjust .. I Adjust the engine side screw . No clonking and can stop the wheel .
On the road test it can be to loose :Slipping .Slight fine adjustment needed
 
Thanks Jan!

Ok so I took it apart, put it back together for about the 20th time and adjusted the clutch again. It will now roll in first with the clutch pulled in but still can't kick without moving the rear wheel in first (with the clutch in).

I tried taking it for a test ride - still putters out in when put in first while stopped. I adjusted the worm to 1/8 turn back and there was no more knocking from the clutch. I gave it some revs and rode it out of first into second but after riding for about one minute, it would not want to shift unless the revs were low, then it would shift fine. Any ideas what that would be? Was pretty sketchy and as I've rebuilt the top end with honed cylinders, new pistons and rings I want to break them in properly... I dumped the oil after and there was some slight metal shine on the top but no chunks and nothing I was worried about - a bunch of new parts are mating together. I rode it for about 10 mins and then pushed it back.

It still doesn't feel like the clutch is properly working, and I could hear a kind of whining noise from the clutch at points while riding. I've ordered the stock clutch spring screws because those are the last things to replace to get it back to original. And it was shifting fine before I took apart the clutch and replaced those (although they look so similar in profile, I don't know how it would make a difference, but I don't know what else to try!). Washers are definitely all correct, shifter shaft centred on the star wheel, worm gear is working, dots aligned, and plates are separating although not 100% evenly (the first one to go on doesn't move much but is free). I'll do some more testing on the weekend and try to narrow down where the clutch is failing. Found some good stuff in this thread.

I've said this before, but I don't think its transmission related as I rode it around after taking the clutch apart (to replace the shifter shaft, had no splines) but before I rebuilt the engine, and the exact same thing happened - wouldn't shift after riding it for about 30 seconds. I wanted to do a rebuild anyway so I tore it down and it shifted fine on the bench so assumed I would put it all back together and it'd be fine...
 
Ok - fully lost now. No idea what to try - put new (stock) clutch spring screws in and an upgraded roller washer, here are some videos and a photo of what’s happening and how I’ve been assembling. I’m not holding any brake in the running video, it does lurch forward a little - if anyone has any ideas

The clutch seems to be working somewhat but won’t idle in first with the clutch in - I can push it in first with the clutch in, and I can kick through with the clutch in although the back wheel moves it forward quite a bit (I’m not sure how it can’t as the kick goes through the trans shaft)



 

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Not that it will make any difference to your problem - the nut is on the wrong way - you will be able to get your spanner on the nut easier if its the right way round.
Regards Ray.
 
Mate, you must be at your witts end by now. the only thing i can suggest is to check the clutch actuator worm or rather the length of the arm. I've been out to measure mine and both that i have are the short ones. the holes measure 30mm from the center some were made longer with the hole at 35mm. In post 18 I said drill a hole at 37mm, I was wrong and should of checked first. The short one will give u more clutch separation but the pull will be heavier.
 
Ok thank you all!! I think it must have been a combination of a bunch of small things but I've got it running now. I ended up using my old steel plates which I slightly sanded with the new friction plates, torqued the allen head spring screws and that was enough! There was a clutch noise when I was low in the rev range after it warmed up, but I'll have a look when I drop the oil tomorrow and sort up the other stuff that came up.

Thank you again!


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Is Star wheel correctly adjusted ??
Perhaps it is the picture and I can remember wrong and so
But should not the Shark fins be at equal distance from star wheel pins there
and the pin with the fins being horizontal it points slightly upwards there
Please check in a Service Manual that can be found on line


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Is Star wheel correctly adjusted ??
Perhaps it is the picture and I can remember wrong and so
But should not the Shark fins be at equal distance from star wheel pins there
and the pin with the fins being horizontal it points slightly upwards there
Please check in a Service Manual that can be found on line
Yes I adjusted it in first gear but that photo is in fifth - it seems to move a little through the gears.

It shifts fine and neutral is easy to find so think it's ok
 
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